Salt water washdown and fresh water tank

[Stowefish]

New to my 2004 Islander with 2 questions. First is that my salt water washdown intermittently works. Will occasionally turn on with good pressure, but then shut off mid stream. Is there some kind of pressure sensing switch on the pump or anything else I need to look at. Most of the time just doesn't turn on all together. Seems to be getting power to the pump and when it goes on, stream is great.

Second is the fresh water tank with a clear leak filling up the front bilge. Any thoughts on best way to check, access. Looks like floor comes up with Phillips screws, but wasn't sure if I should open that can of worms.

I've seen great advice on the site so far and was just wondering if anyone has had experiences like these.

Thx in advance.

 

[Grady_Crazy]

When you find out let me know, my '05 Seafarer raw wash down does the same thing. Good power on the switch but I think it is the pump. I have not taken the time to troubleshoot the thing yet. it turns on about 1 out of 10 times.

 

[seasick]

New to my 2004 Islander with 2 questions. First is that my salt water washdown intermittently works. Will occasionally turn on with good pressure, but then shut off mid stream. Is there some kind of pressure sensing switch on the pump or anything else I need to look at. Most of the time just doesn't turn on all together. Seems to be getting power to the pump and when it goes on, stream is great.

Second is the fresh water tank with a clear leak filling up the front bilge. Any thoughts on best way to check, access. Looks like floor comes up with Phillips screws, but wasn't sure if I should open that can of worms.

I've seen great advice on the site so far and was just wondering if anyone has had experiences like these.

Thx in advance.

There is a pressure switch but if the hose is open, the switch shouldn't turn off the pump. If the water flow stops, check to see if you can hear the pump. If not, the pump, or wiring may be bad. try rapping the pump to see if it runs assuming it has stopped as well as wiggling the wire connectors ( see if that are corroded too)
If the pump is running but no water is coming out of the hose, it could be a bad pump or a clog on the inlet side. That could be the strainer on the thru hull ( exterior) or the sea cock piping. The boat needs to be out of the water to work on those items.

 

[drbatts]

If you hear the pump running and no pressure, I would check for a clog first, including the strainer/filter at the pump. If you hit the switch and nothing, check the wires/connections, or it may be time for a new pump. I find I get about 2-3 yrs from my washdown pumps, before they quit.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

The freshwater tank is likely made out of polyethylene and it takes a lot to break that thing. I would think the tank itself is fine and if there are any leaks, it is with the hose connections to it more than likely. My tank on my 228 is mounted aft of the gas tank. Are you certian the freshwater tank is mounted foreward on your boat? Maybe it is, I do not know. If it is mounted aft then something else is likely filling up your front bilge and I would suspect, maybe it is the fitting to freshwater supply line to your sink in the cabin?

The pump advice others gave is solid. My pump a ProBlaster something or the other kind of pulses when turned on and then runs constant when water is allowed through the hose via the nozzle. Good luck in your quest in solving these...

 

[Slacktime]

There is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the pump that regulates the cutoff pressure.

 

[reelserious]

My guess is that what you are seeing in the "front bilge" is not coming from your fresh water tank. On my Sailfish, like many others, water tends to accumulate there versus the aft bilge area. The easiest way to confirm is to put some food coloring in your tank. You will know soon enough if there is a leak. If there is a leak, as stated above, it is likely a line and not the tank. Good luck with the new boat.

 

[Stowefish]

Thanks to all for the thoughtful input. No noise from the pump when it shuts off. Tried the tapping of the pump to no avail. I'll try the screw adjust at the bottom of the pump and then next step will be to just replace the pump. Don't know what others' experience has been, but have read that these pumps tend to last only 3 or so years anyway. ? Any truth to that.

As far as fresh water, fill is under port side seat and tank is visible just below. Agree with the theory regarding a hose or connection somewhere as opposed to the tank. Food coloring is a great idea.

Will post a reply once the new pump is in.

 

[Stowefish]

If you hear the pump running and no pressure, I would check for a clog first, including the strainer/filter at the pump. If you hit the switch and nothing, check the wires/connections, or it may be time for a new pump. I find I get about 2-3 yrs from my washdown pumps, before they quit.

Drbatts,

Missed this first time through. Looks like time to try the new pump.

Thx again.

 

[Stowefish]

If you hear the pump running and no pressure, I would check for a clog first, including the strainer/filter at the pump. If you hit the switch and nothing, check the wires/connections, or it may be time for a new pump. I find I get about 2-3 yrs from my washdown pumps, before they quit.

Drbatts,

Missed this first time through. Looks like time to try the new pump.

Thx again.

 

[Stowefish]

Only took 2 months to get to it and 5 months to reply. Replaced the pump in about 30 minutes and worked like a charm. A little tricky getting at the screws where it had been places. Might recommend a 90 degree driver if you have one. And some band aids for the cuts on your head. Was only able to replace 3 of 4 screws because of placement/access. They were all solid, so I think it will be ok.

Thx again. Looking forward to spring.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Just a note on wiring as ultimately this project will take you there. Solder, shrink tube, and liquid electrical tape are your best friends. Crimp connectors are easy but that's all I can say for them.
Any crimped wire end exposed to moist salt air will corrode and that corrosion will work its way under the wire jacket quite a ways. Quite often intermittent problems are caused by bad grounds which can be overlooked.
I solder wire connections, dab a little liquid electrical tape on the exposed metal overlapping the jacket and then cover that with shrink tube. Overkill? Maybe, but salt corrosion is the bane of every boats wiring.
When it comes to fuses, obviously fuses can't be soldered so silicon spray and with shielded bayonet fuses silicon grease is the way to go.
Good luck with it. Mike.

 

[DennisG01]

Mike is dead on regarding corrosion. I've been in the marine industry for over 25 years and a life-long boater from a boating family. Absolutely, positively, the most common problem affecting electrically operated "things" on a boat is corrosion - most often, the grounds.

That being said, I'd like to offer a word of caution regarding soldering. This is not to say that Mike is wrong - far from it - for suggesting it, or for using soldering as a method of making secure connections. BUT, soldering should ONLY be done by someone that is experienced with soldering. Most people use way too much solder and you end up decreasing the natural flexibility of the joint. Especially with boats (we all know there's a lot of vibration happening in a boat), the joint needs to stay flexible or over time the joint will break/fail. I'm not just regurgitating information found on the internet - I've personally seen this happen on more than one occasion.

A properly crimped joint is perfectly acceptable and many high-end manufacturers use this method. But, to do it properly, throw away that flat-handled crimper set that you can buy at the local box store - it's junk and does not make solid crimps (the terminals are junk, too). Instead, buy a quality crimper. Klein tools makes an excellent, quality crimper at a decent price - usually about $20. Also, invest in some good quality, marine crimp connections (Ancor is the one I usually default to). Trust me, there is a difference.

Next, you can use unjacketed butt connectors and add your own shrink tube. A step up from this is using adhesive-lined shrink tube. On parallel with adh-lined tube would be connectors that have adhesive-lined shrink tube already attached. Those are really the cat's meow - just apply heat till the color changes slightly and a tiny bit of adhesive oozes out. They're obviously more expensive connectors, but for the limited amount of crimping that you will do on your own boat, they are well worth it.

FYI, the same goes for wire. Don't use the wire you buy at the local auto parts store. Get yourself some "real" marine wire - it should be labeled as "tinned".

Glad you got things all figured out, though!

 

[Stowefish]

Great advice. Thanks. Will go back and re-do the connections in the spring. Sounds like its worth the extra 30 minutes. Gotta keep things running until 3 foot-itis sets in. ;-)

 

[Lt.Mike]

Next, you can use unjacketed butt connectors and add your own shrink tube. A step up from this is using adhesive-lined shrink tube. On parallel with adh-lined tube would be connectors that have adhesive-lined shrink tube already attached. Those are really the cat's meow - just apply heat till the color changes slightly and a tiny bit of adhesive oozes out. They're obviously more expensive connectors, but for the limited amount of crimping that you will do on your own boat, they are well worth it.

I have no use for the colored factory connector jackets. On wire ends like eyelets I remove the provided jacket, crimp, then solder into the connection closing that tiny gap, and then finish with shrink tube.
The ready made adhesive lined tubes is something I didn't know of and is basically what I do with the shrink tube and liquid electrical tape. Guess I've been doing so long this way I let that convenience get by me. I will be on the look out for it now. As tight as shrink tube is with out that adhesive corrosion will still creep in. Same idea with crimps and solder.
Cruising the forum I've seen folks talk about throwing big money on some things that some would consider unnecessary. Hey its your boat and if its makes you happy go for it. But...if you pick something to go cheap on don't let it be wiring, fuel lines, or safety. Those are the things that will leave you stranded or worse.