I am a longtime lurker and recent member. After doing a ton of reading/learning here I found what to me was an irresistible deal on a GW 225G (more boat than I wanted, but gleaned the advice that it's rare to buy a boat and wish you had gone smaller). One of the things that really attracted me to this site is the positive tone that prevails. In that spirit, I would like to share my r and r of the dreaded seacock lever in the hope of making a small contribution. I know this topic has been covered, but I was unable to find photos of the process, so here are mine. I know the photos are huge, someone clue me in, please, on how to reduce them, they are so big they are almost useless.
First, remove livewell. Fairly self explanatory, but choose wisely which hoses to remove at the well and which at through hull, as the livewell is too fragile to crank without breaking it.
I wouldn't attempt this without the radiator hose removal tool, and I'm grateful to those here who provided that bit of wisdom ($2.50 at Harbor Freight).
Here is the view to the rear with well removed.
Next, fold a towel and place over the rim of the access area to protect your sternum and prevent your friends seeing you with your shirt off and thinking you were doing S/M rather than improving your boat. In the access created by removing the well, you will see the broken rod and the pivot/attachment point of the rod to the yellow-wrapped seacock lever. Use a wrench (13/16 if I remember correctly) and remove the stainless steel nut from the stainless steel sea cock lever at the seacock itself. I soaked the nut the day before with CRC, and it came right off. The steel bolt at the other end twisted in two in the vise. Conclusion: stainless is more durable than raw steel in a marine environment. Last, reverse the process installing redesigned and 100% stainless lever, obtained at reasonable cost (+/- $35) from TH Marine..
Lastly, a photo of the seacock itself. It operates with the same amount of resistance as the new ones I handled at the marie supply, and holds water overnight when filled from the top with the hose removed. Would you replace this as preventive maintenance, or is that just making work and potentially damaging the through hull for no good reason? Any thoughts?
First, remove livewell. Fairly self explanatory, but choose wisely which hoses to remove at the well and which at through hull, as the livewell is too fragile to crank without breaking it.
I wouldn't attempt this without the radiator hose removal tool, and I'm grateful to those here who provided that bit of wisdom ($2.50 at Harbor Freight).
Here is the view to the rear with well removed.
Next, fold a towel and place over the rim of the access area to protect your sternum and prevent your friends seeing you with your shirt off and thinking you were doing S/M rather than improving your boat. In the access created by removing the well, you will see the broken rod and the pivot/attachment point of the rod to the yellow-wrapped seacock lever. Use a wrench (13/16 if I remember correctly) and remove the stainless steel nut from the stainless steel sea cock lever at the seacock itself. I soaked the nut the day before with CRC, and it came right off. The steel bolt at the other end twisted in two in the vise. Conclusion: stainless is more durable than raw steel in a marine environment. Last, reverse the process installing redesigned and 100% stainless lever, obtained at reasonable cost (+/- $35) from TH Marine..
Lastly, a photo of the seacock itself. It operates with the same amount of resistance as the new ones I handled at the marie supply, and holds water overnight when filled from the top with the hose removed. Would you replace this as preventive maintenance, or is that just making work and potentially damaging the through hull for no good reason? Any thoughts?
Attachments
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broken rod in housing.jpg -
rusted lever attachment.jpg -
box end on seacock nut.jpg -
severed attachment nut.jpg -
new seacock lever.jpg -
livewell area facing rear.jpg -
IMG_1289.jpg -
seacock.jpg
