Seacock Remote Operation Arm

JBlaze

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I'm a new boat owner and we just purchased a 270 Islander. And fairly new to boating. The remote arm for the live well seacock was broken when we purchased the boat. Based on the photos will I need to replace the entire valve or just the handle? Also is this something I can replace myself(fairly handy) or pay to have someone do it? Thanks in advance!
 

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Hookup1

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I'm a new boat owner and we just purchased a 270 Islander. And fairly new to boating. The remote arm for the live well seacock was broken when we purchased the boat. Based on the photos will I need to replace the entire valve or just the handle? Also is this something I can replace myself(fairly handy) or pay to have someone do it? Thanks in advance!
Well it looks like the nut is seized to the handle and broke off the valve. No picture of the valve included. So I would say install a new valve. Hard part will be getting it loose from the bronze thru hull.
 

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The remote arm in the long, SS thing. The yellow thing is the handle.

But, yes, it looks like replacing the seacock is in order and probably the wisest choice. Maybe you can replace just the valve/stem? I honestly don't know as I've never tried.
 
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JBlaze

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Well it looks like the nut is seized to the handle and broke off the valve. No picture of the valve included. So I would say install a new valve. Hard part will be getting it loose from the bronze thru hull.
Thanks! I went and took a few photos of the seacock(attached).
 

JBlaze

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The remote arm in the long, SS thing. The yellow thing is the handle.

But, yes, it looks like replacing the seacock is in order and probably the wisest choice. Maybe you can replace just the valve/stem? I honestly don't know as I've never tried.
Thanks! From the photos I just added it doesn't look to be that difficult to do. (famous last words) Hoping someone that has done it before could give me some insight as to what to watch out for.
 

Hookup1

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Thanks! From the photos I just added it doesn't look to be that difficult to do. (famous last words) Hoping someone that has done it before could give me some insight as to what to watch out for.
If you can get the 90 off you can get a socket and impact tool on it. Consider doing both while you are in there.
 
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Mustang65fbk

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I'm not sure if the valve is included in the link below, but I'd measure what you've got and then replace the entire thing as they're only about $40-$60 for the assembly, and then the bracket is an extra $15. Though, it looks like something you could make quite easily and cheaply if you had the materials and tools to do so. If the valve isn't included, you can get those for about the same price of $40-$50, so you should be able to do the entire thing for about $100 total, again depending on what size you need.



 
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DennisG01

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I'm not sure if the valve is included in the link below, but I'd measure what you've got and then replace the entire thing as they're only about $40-$60 for the assembly, and then the bracket is an extra $15. Though, it looks like something you could make quite easily and cheaply if you had the materials and tools to do so. If the valve isn't included, you can get those for about the same price of $40-$50, so you should be able to do the entire thing for about $100 total, again depending on what size you need.



No, that last link is for a ball valve, not a seacock. A ball valve will not work.

According to his pictures, he needs the seacock, not the remote arm and bracket (read post #3 to understand the differences between the various components)
 
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grady33

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Just went through this with my pump out valve. Did the exact same thing and ended up just replacing the valve. Put a wrench on thru hull nut and then on on valve and see if you can unscrew valve. If thru hull is in good condition and doesn’t move, you’re probably good just replacing valve. Make sure to get exact threds.IMG_5628.jpegIMG_5628.jpeg
 

Mustang65fbk

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No, that last link is for a ball valve, not a seacock. A ball valve will not work.

According to his pictures, he needs the seacock, not the remote arm and bracket (read post #3 to understand the differences between the various components)
Well... per the OP's first post, he says "The remote arm for the live well seacock was broken when we purchased the boat." so... to what extent is it broken and can it be fixed? Again, for $40-$60... I can't imagine it would break the bank for most, though I guess I can't speak for yourself. And it does say on the link that I provided that it "Fits IBVF for Seacock Application".
 

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Just to restate the obvious: The boat has to be out of the water when replacing the valve:)
 
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Hookup1

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Well... per the OP's first post, he says "The remote arm for the live well seacock was broken when we purchased the boat." so... to what extent is it broken and can it be fixed? Again, for $40-$60... I can't imagine it would break the bank for most, though I guess I can't speak for yourself. And it does say on the link that I provided that it "Fits IBVF for Seacock Application".
<iframe src="https://giphy.com/embed/sTX1S6rvPBmUCGSsvL" width="480" height="240" frameBorder="0" class="giphy-embed" allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="
">via GIPHY</a></p>
 
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JBlaze

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I'm not sure if the valve is included in the link below, but I'd measure what you've got and then replace the entire thing as they're only about $40-$60 for the assembly, and then the bracket is an extra $15. Though, it looks like something you could make quite easily and cheaply if you had the materials and tools to do so. If the valve isn't included, you can get those for about the same price of $40-$50, so you should be able to do the entire thing for about $100 total, again depending on what size you need.



Thanks, handle is definitely broke off the valve. So I will replace the valve. The arm I have measures just under 20" without the ball at the top of the arm. I'm thinking the 24" would be the one I need. TH Marine is currently out of stock but will notify me when they have them.
 
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drbatts

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The arm may be fine if you can unbolt it from the handle. I had to replace the valve for my A/C last season. The arm was fine and I just had to reattach it to the new valve handle. In your picture the arm itself doesn't look bad.
 
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DennisG01

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Well... per the OP's first post, he says "The remote arm for the live well seacock was broken when we purchased the boat." so... to what extent is it broken and can it be fixed? Again, for $40-$60... I can't imagine it would break the bank for most, though I guess I can't speak for yourself. And it does say on the link that I provided that it "Fits IBVF for Seacock Application".
There's more information than just the first post. Sometimes you have to read everything - that's what I was trying to direct you towards.

"And it does say on the link that I provided that it "Fits IBVF for Seacock Application"."

That is correct. And that is why you are wrong. Educate yourself on what that is and also on NPT vs NPS. Recommending, and continuing to recommend, a wrong product to somone without actual knowledge of what you're talking about will only waste his time and money... along with de-railing a helpful thread. It's OK to not know something - we all start somewhere - but be open to taking the advice that you're wrong on something and go back and learn about it.
 

Halfhitch

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This is a good explanation of what Dennis is talking about. Especially the line at the bottom in red highlight.

 
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grady33

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For reference, this is what Grady White Customer Service said to use when replacing valve/seacock etc. They emailed me that picture and that matches what is already in the boat.

I know the one on the left is better way to go (or newer way) but the valve in there now was originally installed by Grady and performed well for 17 years on my 330.IMG_5630.jpegIMG_5630.jpeg