seacocks

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Paul R Touchette

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Seafarer
Have 21014 Seafarer 228 and washdown. Have live bait well. Cannot find seacocks. Help ?
 
Pull handles located near transom take covers off. Near port/starboard side should see the pull handles
 
Port side is your washdown and starboard livewell. Mine is 2013 should be the same.
 

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Yea, I need to replace a couple valves in my aft battery well. They are getting pretty badly rusted.. or were.. I need to see how hard it is to replace those without removing the thru-hull section, or if possible, so I can get some stainless ones. If it gets replaced, stainless is the only way to go imo.. heh....well, unless it is 10k.. then brass is the only way to go!.. lol

R
 
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Never brass! Bronze is the correct alloy. I would go with bronze valves also. Stainless is not a good choice below the water line and those valves will be filled with sea water when open.
 
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ok, I said brass.. I do not think they sell brass ones.. I meant bronze.

If I had a nickle for every correction I got, I'd be able to buy a new Grady. (that is humor.. heh)

BTW - you cannot swing a dead cat without hitting someone with a different opinion, but the bronze ones make sense and seem to be less. Just need to keep them sprayed with corrosion spray so they do not go back to what they are now.
 
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Thanks much. The pictures really helped. Finally found the levers. Kind of dark in there.
 
hey Paul, when you find the ones that work for you, can you post a link? Curious what you go with ;)

R
 
Bronze is not an opinion based on a whim, it's a proven alloy for such things as through hull fittings and marine valves. There is a thing called exercising your valves . Opening and closing them helps to keep them free and working. it's leaving them in one place for like ever when they seize. I try to open and close my seacocks monthly. you can aide in their life if you can run some freshwater through them at a lake or river.

oh, when underway close your through hull fittings like the washdown and livewell ,if you are not using it, because many a boat have succumbed to a failed fitting or or hose while underway and the captain often doesn't detect it until the hull is handling poorly. also , if you keep your boat in the water , according to Boat US, the single biggest insurance claim is sinking at the dock and the culprit is often an open seacock and poorly maintained hoses that fail.
 
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SmokyMtnGrady said:
you can aide in their life if you can run some freshwater through them at a lake or river.
Click to expand...

Yep, as part of my standard washdown procedure after pulling out of the saltwater, I fill up the livewells with fresh water and backflow the pumps and seacocks and let the water drain out through the thru-hulls. It works well because the 2 raw water livewell pumps are centrifugal types, so water is free to flow backwards. It may not work as well with impeller pumps.
 
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Paul R Touchette said:
Thanks much. The pictures really helped. Finally found the levers. Kind of dark in there.
Click to expand...
You are welcome.

My boat is always on a trailer when not used. When I get home as part of washing the boat, engine and trailer, I will flash the engine on muffs for 10 minutes and flash the through hulls from underneath using a muff that fits over the pick ups . I run the pumps to get rid of the saltwater. I operate the ball valves every time the boat is used because I always us the livewell and deckwash.
 
seasick said:
Never brass! Bronze is the correct alloy. I would go with bronze valves also. Stainless is not a good choice below the water line and those valves will be filled with sea water when open.
Click to expand...

What do you recommend below the water line for scuppers? I plan to replace mine and thought the standard was bronze with stainless. However, the stainless seems off if the scupper is submerged (when both tanks filled)
 
Type of metal is not the only thing you need to be aware of, you also have to match thread type. Thru hulls have straight threads, for the backing nut, and most valves have tapered NPT threads. Put those two together, without a proper flange, and you only get a few threads before it feels tight, but it is a weak connection. The seacock flange has straight threads in the bottom, and tapered in the top. Connect the valve on top with a short nipple. The thru hull should be the proper length, so that the flange can be tight to the inside of the hull, not sitting up.
Lots of articles about this thread mis-match.

 
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