Seafarer 226 sea valve remote actuators

Keeldad

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I have a 99 relatively new to me Seafarer 226. Love the boat and the way Grady has done most things. The SW washdown and livewell sea valves however, are a pain to open (Drop splashwell, kneel down on wet/bloody deck, pry open deck plate cover and reach way down to open for washdown and repeat when done). At 63 this get real onerous real fast therefore the sw washdown doesn’t get used as often as it should. Recently I noticed a comment on another thread that referenced a rod and swivel attachment that Grady apparently uses on newer versions. I saw the link provided for the item on the other thread but my question is, where does the operating end (handle) end up? Further checking seems to indicate that it is still under the deck plate, just easier to reach, or is it located somewhere else that would negate kneeling and opening the deck plate? Thanks in advance for any assistance on this issue.
 

seasick

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On many hulls, they are under a hatch. If you only have deck plates, they would be under those but they probably will be still a bit hard to get to. In theory, they could go through the deck but water could get into the bilge. The needed angle needed to make them work may also not be possible to obtain. There is no simple answer.
Be aware they you need sea cock handles with holes to mount the linkage. You could probably replace the existing handles with ones with holes or drill a hole in the existing handle . If you have to remove the handle to work on it or replace it, you might find that task to be quite difficult especially if you need to work through a small access plate.
Depending on your specific layout, you might want to consider cutting a larger deck opening and installing a decent sized hatch that can be easily opened.
 

seasick

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That's good to know. Are they original and what year hull?
 

Fishtales

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You can pretty much install anyway you want provided you get the right parts.
This is a simple install that won't solve all your problems but gives you a good firm handle to pull on.

 

Fishtales

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Here is a second that is close to what GW offers. They have different sizes.

 

Fishtales

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I like the actuator idea, but you know that would last about a season. Then the salt would work it's way in and you'd be replacing them.
You could relocate the valve higher, but you are basically defeating the purpose of having the valve right at the thru hull entry spot. I wouldn't advise. But if you do, carry wooden plugs and stay afloat.
A final option is bring a young dude with you and make them do all the donkey work....
 

PNW_Drifter

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Keeldad

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Wow! Thanks for all the responses. Drifter gave me the exact info I was looking for, kind of angled up under the rear seat compartments. That’s the setup for me. Pictures are worth 1,000 words. I like Fishtales “young dude” setup as well. I have one of those but his maintenance costs (beer, sandwiches) exceed the costs for the actuator setup. I had considered putting another valve in a more accessible location but that defeats the purpose and I don’t to run with plumbing exposed to water pressure if possible. As an ex-submarine sailor, I get pretty particular about holes in my hull that I can’t immediately secure with a valve.
 
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Keeldad

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They must have changed it between 1999 and 2001. My seafarer came through with most every option and I can’t see someone who got most all the other options skimping on thru hull valve actuators. Boat is under cover right now but it will be interesting to see if those holes are in the frames.
 

Summertop511

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2005 226 and have to pop deck hatches to turn them on and off. Please post after install of something easier!
 

seasick

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You can pretty much install anyway you want provided you get the right parts.
This is a simple install that won't solve all your problems but gives you a good firm handle to pull on.

Interesting gadget. I keep a short piece of 1 in pvc pipe in the bilge to use as a lever. For some valves it works well, for others not so well since you cant get it onto the handle when open. Adding a slot similar to the product shown may be an idea. I am going to look into that. I will pick up some sch 80 pipe, the sch 40 is a tad brittle
 

Legend

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You can pretty much install anyway you want provided you get the right parts.
This is a simple install that won't solve all your problems but gives you a good firm handle to pull on.

I picked up one of these last season and they work great. you could make one out of PvC but for 20 bucks you get a ready to use tool.
 

seasick

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If I want to leave it on the handle, I would need 5 for my two boats. I think I will play with the idea and see if it works out. I need to check clearances also. Some handles just clear the attached plumbing. In nay case, something to keep me my brain busy.
 

ScottyCee

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I left mine open for 4 years of summer mooring - so about 20 months in the water - and never had ANY leakage. I really didn't know at the time that you could close it off.

Is it standard practice to shut off the raw water stopcock between uses?? That seems less than idea under the best of circumstances.
 

PNW_Drifter

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I left mine open for 4 years of summer mooring - so about 20 months in the water - and never had ANY leakage. I really didn't know at the time that you could close it off.
Is it standard practice to shut off the raw water stopcock between uses?? That seems less than idea under the best of circumstances.

Most boats (any type/brand) sink at the dock or moored. So ya standard "good boater" practice would be to shut thru-hulls if you're going to be away for a while, even a day. I keep mine shut even when running if I'm not going to need seawater. Unfortunately not all our thru-hulls "ie scuppers" have valves on them. A leaky hose could cause disaster.
 

Keeldad

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I close all hull valves when not in use. Yes, you can go years without a problem but when a problem does show up, things can get ugly real fast. Like I said earlier, I’m ex-submarine service and trust no pipes or hoses that are connected to a hole below the waterline. Also I would recommend carrying one of those orange neoprene plugs that WM and others sell. I think it would work better across a larger spectrum of holes than the assortment of wooden plugs I carried for years.
 

ScottyCee

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Fortunately mine are easy to reach through the aftmost inspection hatch, but that adds a step to operation.

Now I need to check whether my float-switched bilge pump is run through the battery switch... 8^)