Seafarer Battery and Seacock Questions

[Blaugrana]

With my new to me 2000 Seafarer 228, I am starting to read the manual and prod around the various openings in the hull while I wait for Spring . I came across two items that I am looking for some insight/ feedback.

1. Seacock: There are two seacocks, one on the port and the other on the starboard. I assume one is for the live well and the other for the wash down. However, I am not sure which is which and how to actually function (Pull/ Push, Twist) them.

2. Batteries: Looks like 1 of my batteries is dead, but I was surprised to learn that these are only 12 volt batteries. Is that typical for a Seafarer? Also, any recommendations as to a new battery? Currently, I have two Interstate SRM24 batteries (one that registers at a full 12v and the other does not even turn on the electronics), but not sure if these are worth buying again.

 

[Bdsp1234]

You can find the manuals on line. Also, don’t assume the battery is bad. Pull it and have it tested. Your wiring may not be correct either. Now is the time to go over the whole system. The SRM24 batteries are correct.
You should have dual battery switch. Be sure NOT to run the boat on ALL. Your batteries will not charge properly.

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks - This is what the manual has for the seacocks. Feels more like a ball valve that you would find in your water shutoff valve of your house. There is nothing in the manual of the knobs from my pics above.

 

[Ky Grady]

Seacocks are ball valves and they are push/pull actuated. Port one is for raw water washdown, starboard is for livewell pump intake. Up/pull should be open, down/push should be closed.

Here's how you should look under your livewell. Both of mine are pulled up/open.



As far as batteries go, Interstate are good batteries, I'm running 4 of them in mine. 2 set up for the motor and accessories on a switch and 2 set up for trolling motor. 12 volt are a normal battery, why would you think it would be different?

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks for the pics. I totally overlooked removing the live well for a better access point. From other posts, I heard it’s a bit of a pain but will go down that path.

Has anyone had those valves replaced? Some articles mentioned that Grady offered replacements as there were known issues. I have a feeling mine are locked because the rods had no play in them. Once I get access to the actual valves I will have a better idea.

As for the batteries, the owner of a seafarer 226 I looked at said he had 2x24v batteries, which was why I thought mine would have the same.

BTw, underneath your livewell looks brand new. How often do you clean it???

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks for the pics. I totally overlooked removing the live well for a better access point. From other posts, I heard it’s a bit of a pain but will go down that path.

Has anyone had those valves replaced? Some articles mentioned that Grady offered replacements as there were known issues. I have a feeling mine are locked because the rods had no play in them. Once I get access to the actual valves I will have a better idea.

As for the batteries, the owner of a seafarer 226 I looked at said he had 2x24v batteries, which was why I thought mine would have the same.

BTw, underneath your livewell looks brand new. How often do you clean it???

Your boat works on a 12v system, just like your car.

"No play in the rods"... that doesn't mean anything one way or the other. It takes some force to operate them. If they haven't been operated in a while (they should be "exercised" every so often), then they might get stiffer. You may need to remove the rod and operate by hand - or put a pipe over the handle or a ratchet into the handle. You may even need to remove the hose and drop some PB Blaster in there to help free things up.

Ball valves RARELY go bad. There are no "known issues" with them. The issues, 99.99999% of the time, come from owner's not exercising them on a regular basis.

 

[Ky Grady]

Owner of 226 doesn't know what he has. Maybe he meant 2 12volts.

I've replaced both pickups and ball valves. I accidentally crushed one of the pickups when I put boat on lift in Florida a couple of years ago. Both valves were frozen and non functioning, couldn't open or close. I contribute that to PO not exercising them from time to time.

I've had my livewell out multiple times doing work on pumps and switches and keep it as clean as possible in the bilge.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I needed to "refresh" the ball valve on my baitwell pump last winter. I rarely use live bait anymore and hadn't worked the lever for over 5 years and it would not move. My initial thought was to replace the pickup and ball valve assembly, but that looked like a lot of work. So I went ahead and freed up the valve. The pump needs to be removed in order to have access to the ball valve. I sprayed some Corrosion X on top of the ball and also shot some in through the pickup grate from below. After a day I was able to work the valve free by sliding a piece of pipe over the handle to increase leverage. The ball valve is made of stainless steel rather than Teflon, so corrosion can form between it and the brass fitting. Once the valve was loose, I sprayed in some lithium-based white grease and continued to work the lever until the action smoothed out.

Now I make it a point to exercise the valve most every trip.

 

[DennisG01]

The ball valve is made of stainless steel rather than Teflon, so corrosion can form between it and the brass fitting.

The ball is SS and the body is bronze... but there should be a teflon sleeve between the ball and the body. It's not always easy to see, but it should be there. However, the ball is still in awful close proximity to the bronze body.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I mean to write bronze instead of brass. Brain fart!

 

[DennisG01]

I mean to write bronze instead of brass. Brain fart!

I knew what 'ya meant

 

[Fishtales]

The part that often is replaced on the pulls is the end that attaches to the ball valve handle. Some of these were steel which rusts and eventually breaks. You dealer will have the ends that screw on the rod and replace them. The ones in the pics above are the SS good ones.

 

[Fishtales]

(2) 12v marine batteries are the standard per bank, wired in parallel. You may have (2) one battery banks, one for starting and one for house (other electronics) use.

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks everyone for all of the feedback and advice. I plan to tackle it this weekend and will let you know how it goes

 

[Blaugrana]

After working on my boat this weekend, I learned that the Seacocks actually move easily and freely. I have no clue why they wouldn't budge the last time I tried in what was 70 degree temperature, but they worked great in the low 30s.

I took the 2nd battery out and have it charging now. There must have been an easier way, but I had to remove the oil tank and lift it out in order to remove the battery. I am not sure if anyone else has to do the same, but what should have taken me 2 mins took unnecessarily long.

Question #1: Has anyone relocated their oil tank to make access to their batteries easier?

Question #2: Even though my seacocks do work, I still attempted to take out the livewell, but was unsuccessful. I removed all of the screw but one as it was not in good condition, basically stripped. However, I attempted to see if I could partially lift the Livewell before disconnecting all of the hoses, but I had no play/ movement whatsoever. Any advice on how to do it? How much does it weigh approximately?

My one hose looks like it is dry rotted and I want to figure out how to do this so I can replace it.

 

[seasick]

Unless you are replacing the batteries, there is no need to remove them. Just make sure thay are fully charged before winter layup

 

[Lite Tackle]

Question #1: Has anyone relocated their oil tank to make access to their batteries easier?

I have a group 27 on each side. I relocated my oil tank to the dumpster. Plenty of room now. Using it for storage. Never enough.

 

[wrxhoon]

[QUOTE="
Question #2: Even though my seacocks do work, I still attempted to take out the livewell, but was unsuccessful. I removed all of the screw but one as it was not in good condition, basically stripped. However, I attempted to see if I could partially lift the Livewell before disconnecting all of the hoses, but I had no play/ movement whatsoever. Any advice on how to do it? How much does it weigh approximately?

My one hose looks like it is dry rotted and I want to figure out how to do this so I can replace it.[/QUOTE]

Livewells on early models (like yours) are lighter than late models, the lip on yours is very thin, I assume you got the lid off then take all the screws located on the top of the lip. The tank will lift slightly but the inlet and outlet hoses will stop it from coming all the way . I find it easier to undo the S/S hose clips then pull the hoses off. Its a bit difficult to undo with a screwdriver, I use 5/16 ratchet spanner or 5/16 socket 1/4 drive. much easier.
When I re-install the livewell I use silicone on the lip so I don't have water from overflowing tank running on the cables in the bilge.

 

[Halfhitch]

Since you are dealing with a, "new to you", 20 year old boat, I would recommend you load test each battery cable unless you know they have been replaced recently. Just connect each cable, both positives and grounds, to the positive post of a full charged battery, one at a time and connect a load tester, such as in the link, from the other end of the cable to the ground post. After holding the button down on the tester for several seconds and the resistor coils become very hot, feel up and down the full length of the cable looking for hot spots. Any warm spots that show up indicates internal corrosion and should cull that particular cable. This should be done every 5 years or so on a saltwater boat. If the cables have ever been actually submerged in saltwater they should be replaced.
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-B...+load+tester+automotive&qid=1573740596&sr=8-4

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Not sure why you want to "access" your batteries more than your oil tank. Your batteries don't need to be removed unless you're replacing them. YOur oil tank needs filling constantly. BTW I keep my batteries on a trickle charger in the boat all year.