A little while back my cockpit lights went out (the ones that are actually Attwood stern lights). I never use them so I didn't mess with them until now. I replaced the bulbs. No luck. The units themselves were very corroded so I replaced the whole fixtures. No luck, but they sure are shiny. I finally decide to check for power to the switches. I'm no multi-meter expert, but I'm pretty sure there was no power. So, I replaced the switch. Still no luck. Any ideas of where to start the gremlin chase?
Seafarer cockpit light issues
- Thread starter G8RDave
- Start date
G8RDave said:
You have to work backwards from the lights to the battery, measuring voltage. You may have a bad or tripped breaker if there are breakers, a bad fuse if fused, any of many bad connections at the distribution panel and of course a bad ground. A 12v test lamp works better than a multimeter for this type of issue. Connect the ground lead of the tested to a good ground and work your way along the circuit testing for juice.
Good luck
Yup, seasick is right. Pull the switch panel out and check with a 12v test light- the kind with an alligator clip on a wire and the probe looks like a screwdriver with a point on it. I bet the breaker is bad. See if there is power going to the breaker. The electrical panel has looped orange wires jumping accross all the breakers- that's the power (12+). If you need a breaker, I found a source for them and they're about $3 each. I bought 3 just because shipping was about $9.
Here's a picture of the back of my panel:
And the breaker:
Here's a picture of the back of my panel:
And the breaker:
Looks like I'm going to be buying a test light. 
Zimm, where did you find the breakers? That sounds like something I should have on hand, just in case. I really hope that's the problem. Trying to chase down the wires through the loom doesn't look like fun, even though it's just a couple wires.
Zimm, where did you find the breakers? That sounds like something I should have on hand, just in case. I really hope that's the problem. Trying to chase down the wires through the loom doesn't look like fun, even though it's just a couple wires.Bought a test light during lunch today. Sure enough, breaker is bad. Now I just have to find the right replacement.
The breaker was likely bad due to the corrosion of the breaker itself and or the light fixture. t If the fixture is corroded out you can create a short which the breaker is in place to protect against. This spring I went over the electrical stuff in the boat and used that PB corrosion guard stuff on all my switches back end, my electronics connections, my VHF antenna connections, light fixtures, batteries, main breaker and so forth. I did use electrical contact cleaner where I found things needed to be cleaned then I sprayed the corrosion guard once things got cleaned up.
www.mouser.com
This should be the 5 amp one: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... S-701-HT-5
I picked up a couple 5's and 15's.
693-TS-701-HT-15
MFG Part No:TS-701-HT-15
TS-701-HT-15
693-TS-701-HT-5
MFG Part No:TS-701-HT-5
TS-701-HT-5
This should be the 5 amp one: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... S-701-HT-5
I picked up a couple 5's and 15's.
693-TS-701-HT-15
MFG Part No:TS-701-HT-15
TS-701-HT-15
693-TS-701-HT-5
MFG Part No:TS-701-HT-5
TS-701-HT-5
Thanks, Zimm. I happened to find that site yesterday and went ahead and ordered the breaker. Like you I went ahead and got several. Why did you go with the HT version instead of the HZ that shows in your picture? Playing it safe I just went with the HZ since that's what mine is (10 amp though instead of the 5 amp yours is).
G8RDave said:
I couldn't find an HZ with a 5 amp rating. I think it listed it as obsolete. I looked up the specs and the HT looks like the same thing to me.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/358/typ_ts-701-16343.pdf
I had to replace an accessory breaker because when I bought the boat, the threaded neck was broken off. Keep your rubber cap, you'll need to re-use that on the new breaker.