seafarer port side junction box

DoctorOctopus

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I found this odd corroded ... what appears to be a junction box in the port side in the cab of my 1987 seafarer 228
what would you replace it with. I am planning on a full rewire soon. I'm not sure why there is a fuse on both the positive and negative on this.

according to the original manual "
Auxilliary Fuse Panel: located under the dash, the auxiliary fuse panel offers the ability to hook additional electronics....note a set of 10 gauge wires (orange and black) running from the panel
These wires terminate at a junction box on the port side. This junction box offers convenient access to power for electronics install don the port side."


what do I replace it with?
two terminal blocks? https://defender.com/en_us/cole-hersee-terminal-block
a fuse block? https://defender.com/en_us/blue-sea-systems-st-blade-6-fuse-block-with-common-negative-bus-5025

or a junction box?

or just forget it until I need it?
 

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glacierbaze

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If you are planning a re-wire, and you don’t need it at the moment, I would put the cover back on and ignore it. It does not look like it is in a good place to begin with, and if I were going to replace it, the only choice that you listed would be the Blue Seas fuse block.
The other choices are all junction blocks, which is basically a convenient way to join the two ends of a wire together. They require a hot lead to every screw on which ever side is the feed, unless you use one of the inserts, which connects two or more, or all the posts on one side.
The BS fuse block only requires one hot lead, and one negative lead, which you already have, and you just connect each accessory to a fuse stud, and a ground. If you do use a fuse block, make sure that you get one with negative studs, as well as positive studs. Some of the Blue Seas blocks only have positive studs, and you have to have a separate negative buss bar, which is a pain in the ass.
 
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seasick

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It seems to be a hack job:)
Not only is there no reason to have a fuse in a ground leg, it can create a dangerous situation.
I agree that is doesn't need replacement but my concern is whether the two conductors were feed side ( power source) or load side ( whatever it was powering. In the later case it can be abandoned. In the other case you need to determine if it has power and if so, from where. For example, a direct connection to a battery or battery switch is a bad thing if the power is not overload protected near the battery. You can follow the wires (maybe) to see where they go and you can test for power using a voltmeter or a test lamp (which I prefer for this kind of testing). Test the wires for juice with battery switches off. Hopefully there is no power.
Then turn on all battery switches. Again, there should be no power.
Finally, while testing, cycle every switch at the helm to see if any of them cause power to be present at the wires. If no power for any of those tests, you can just abandon the box
 

DoctorOctopus

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Sounds like this mystery is solved!
i will leave it alone and perhaps put a minimum sized blue sea fuse box there