Sealing the Deck

[Ekea]

i just picked up a Chase 263. being an older boat, there are some maintenance items id like to take care of.

one of the first is sealing the deck. specifically, the caulked seams between deck panels, the deck and console, and the deck and leaning post. what is the best product for this? uv resitant silicone caulk from HD or Lowes? or do i need a marine specific product?

second, is all the access ports (6"round ones). id like to replace all of them. in doing so, ill want to seal each screw hole and run a bead all the way around before putting the surround in. what caulk product should i use for that? same as above?

thanks

 

[Rph1225]

For anything that I might take off in the future, such as access ports, deck hardware, etc. I would use butyl tape. It stays pliable forever and cleans up easily. For anything more permanent, I stay with 3M 4200 or Lowes sells Loctite Marine sealant that works good.

 

[Hookup1]

3M 4000 is what I’m using. It is UV stable. While the deck is up make sure it’s not wet and rotting out. You can replace the core and save the hatch. Screw holes around the hatch are a big source of leaks especially into the core. Deck plates can be ordered from Beckston in GW color. Use the 4000 to caulk them in.

 

[DennisG01]

Butyl tape is great for the pie holes, but it would be the wrong product for sealing the floor panels. A caulk/sealant is what is needed for the perimeter of the floor panel. Boat Life LifeSeal will last a long, long time - but many people like pulling the panel every so often to inspect the gas tank and something like the GE Silicone II seems to be a popular choice (although I've never personally used it). 4000 is great stuff, too - similar to LifeSeal in lifespan.

 

[PointedRose]

If you do find any holes have widened, drill it out bigger, put some tape on the bottom and fill the hole with epoxy, then redrill the hole - countersink the holes so the sealant has a place to go and when you put screws and bolts back in do not tighten down all the way, leave it loose for 24 hours, let the goo set up a little, then cinch down the next day so all the sealant doesn’t squeeze out. Use painters tape to contain the goo and make for easy cleanup, and use throwaway gloves.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I use GE silicon in order to allow for easier removal of deck plates for inspection or electronics installation. I run 60 lb test mono fishing line along the bottom of the opening before adding the silicon. Leaving a short tag end of line at one corner really makes removal of the old sealer a lot easier.

There is no need to use any type of adhesive to seal deck plates that are held by screws.

 

[Ekea]

thanks, all!

 

[ROBERTH]

I have been using the GE II silicone in almond color for many years and have noticed in last year or so, it does not seem to hold up as well as it used to. Not sure if the changed the formula, but is seems to be cracking which is weird or pulling away from the surface. Also is molding faster that before.
Every time I remove a floor panel, I have to use mineral spirits to soften then scrape off the gelcoat bonding area, then wipe clean/dry with acetone before resealing, so bonding should not be an issue. I work hard to make sure no former silicone is present on the surface as I understand silicone does not like to bond to formerly cured silicone.
I am now wondering if anyone has used the 4000 UV and if it is easy to remove or more difficult? I know 4200 is a killer sometimes so would not be a good choice.

I am not familiar with life caulk as much. Have used it before but don't recall the results.