Silicon caulk or 4200?

[Finatic272]

I have a 1999 GW Sailfish 272. I removed a floor panel to replace my live well pump. I have reinstalled the panel, now I need to caulk the seam between the floor panels. In past projects I caulked floor panel seams with silicone. However, after a summer season the mold starts growing within the caulk. I have avoided using 4200 due to the difficulty in removing the panel for future access. Any ideas on what caulk to use to help prevent mold growth.

 

[Hookup1]

4200/5200 are not mold resistant and too much of an adhesive.

I’m using 4000uv. A good quality silicone is ok too but I like the 4000 better-easier to remove.

 

[Finatic272]

I have a 1999 GW Sailfish 272. I removed a floor panel to replace my live well pump. I have reinstalled the panel, now I need to caulk the seam between the floor panels. In past projects I caulked floor panel seams with silicone. However, after a summer season the mold starts growing within the caulk. I have avoided using 4200 due to the difficulty in removing the panel for future access. Any ideas on what caulk to use to help prevent mold growth.

4200/5200 are not mold resistant and too much of an adhesive.

I’m using 4000uv. A good quality silicone is ok too but I like the 4000 better-easier to remove.

Thanks I’ll read up on 4000uv

 

[DennisG01]

Yes, definitely don't use 4200 for that - it's also not UV stable.

I've never used 4000UV, but isn't that still a pretty strong adhesive? But again, never used it so can't say from personal experience.

3M does make a silicone sealant that you might consider due to being easier to remove. I've used that before and was happy with it.

I used LifeSeal about 6 years ago on a hatch. Haven't had to remove the hatch yet and the sealant still looks good. Life Seal is roughly the same as a silicone in terms of removal ease.

A lot of guys talk about GE Silicone II (I think that's the name). It's inexpensive and seems to last decent. Home Depot has it.

 

[seasick]

The HD silicon by GE does work fairly well and the almond color is a decent option for Gradys'
Just make sure you get the stuff that says it is for kitchens and baths. That product has a mildewcide in it and that does reduce mold growth

 

[SkunkBoat]

I've used GE Silicone2 (outdoor type for gutters,windows not bathroom) for years. I like it . holds up well and comes out easy when you want to get in there (I remove the deck every year to clean tanks)

Edit: They call it GE Supreme Silicone now not Silicone2

I used 4000UV last season. Very good. Firmer. I little harder to get a blade thru to remove. But it does pull when you get it going. If I wasn't pulling it up evry year I would probably use that.

DO NOT USE 4200/5200!!

DO NOT USE DAP!

 

[Fishtales]

The GW Almond silicone is what I use.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Some manufacturers make specific bath caulk that is mold resistant.

 

[drbatts]

The GW Almond silicone is what I use.

X2

 

[theclamman]

The caulking Grady uses is GE Sanitary SCS1700 Mildew Mold Resistant in Almond color. Just resealed mine last weekend with it, perfect match.

 

[Ekea]

i just bought caulk through my local grady dealer for this purpose. its the caulk that jkg51781 mentioned above.

i also did all my deck plates and screws. i am using lifeseal for that since that isnt visible.

 

[brdawg2001]

GE here as well..have not had issues with mold at all.

 

[Stella]

I took the cockpit floor up to replace the fuel lines on my 1998 272. How much caulk is needed to reseal the floor seams?

 

[Ekea]

I took the cockpit floor up to replace the fuel lines on my 1998 272. How much caulk is needed to reseal the floor seams?

how hard was it to dig the caulk out? it seems like it could be a bit of a pain

 

[Hookup1]

how hard was it to dig the caulk out? it seems like it could be a bit of a pain

Take a sheetrock knife with fresh blade and cut deep all the way around. It's usually not that difficult - depends on the caulk used. Once out clean all the edges up.

 

[Stella]

As Hookup said, sharp sheetrock knife with new blade. The time consuming part was cleaning up the edges in preparation for reinstallation.

 

[jjack5150]

I use a lot of different caulks as a general contractor. Boat life and sikaflex seem to be the only UV resistant. Used 4200c a few years back on the main hatch on my 282. Started molding by December. Pulled it all and used sikaflex. No mold issues. Also (in a pinch) on a small hatch used 30 min shower ready as West Marine was closed. That was two years ago and is still fine.
Another trick is to string 80# test mono at the bottom of the channel you are caulking. (Tuck the looped, bitter end under the caulk). When time to take out the component, just dig out that end and pull.

 

[seasick]

If you read the instructions on many of the caulks and sealants you may notice that they specify an optimal depth and often that is 1/4 inch or so. Yup. if the caulk is too deep, it doesn't last as long and that is because there is so much tension as things move or expand/contract that the caulk can pull away from the things it is sealing. Using backer rod material is a good way to partially fill gaps/seams that are too deep. In addition a caulk line that is not deep is easier in the future to remove. Moral is: More is not better

 

[Fishtales]

Get the GE Silicone at HD. It's the same shite, easily available and without the GW markup.

 

[NealTrombley]

Sika 295UV is a great window product and used around the new clear baitwell tanks, also for gap filling..