Skeg repair

[seasick]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a welding shop in the NY metro, Brooklyn, Queens or Suffolk area that replaces/repairs broken outboard skegs?

I could also go to the Toms River area in New Jersey.

Thanks
Seasick

 

[suzukidave]

have you considered a stainless skeg guard instead?

 

[DennisG01]

The place we use is probably too far away from you. But try calling a few local dealers (doesn't matter what brand motor dealer/boat dealer) and see who they use as they will most likely sub this work out. I'm sure there's an outfit around that area that does that work - there has to be.

My opinion on the skeg guard is to avoid it. If you hit something again, it's possible that you would break the skeg closer to the gear housing and then it may not be able to be welded. The skeg guards are supposed to have breakaway bolts, but I've seen cases where they didn't break like they were supposed to and the lower unit was ruined.

 

[Rustygaff]

I believe that most prop shops will weld on a new skeg for you.

 

[CJ7Rob]

Is it possible to straighten out a skeg that is slightly bent to the left? Or will it most likely crack trying to straighten it out? Thanks

 

[DennisG01]

Is it possible to straighten out a skeg that is slightly bent to the left? Or will it most likely crack trying to straighten it out? Thanks

It's best to start your own thread when the question differs from the original. Otherwise you become a "hi-jacker"

But, yes, in many cases you can straighten it out with some wood and a couple hammers.

 

[seasick]

have you considered a stainless skeg guard instead?

Yes but I don't like the way they look and fit.

 

[seasick]

It's best to start your own thread when the question differs from the original. Otherwise you become a "hi-jacker"

But, yes, in many cases you can straighten it out with some wood and a couple hammers.

I had a bent skeg and watched a few videos on different methods to straighten it. My skeg was missing its tip and was pretty well bent but I figured I would give it a try. The wood backing doesn't work. You need something with a lot of mass as a backer. The videos used a brass mallet which of course I didn't have so I used a 2 or 3 pound ball peen as the whacker tool and an 8 pound sledge as the backer. With one person holding the sledge against the skeg, I hammered the other side and was able to take out about 80% of the bend. Then I got greedy and overconfident and decided to give a good wack to try and unbend the last part of the skeg. Kaboom, about 4 inches of the skeg broke off.
So to answer the question, yes you can straighten the bend and yes you can break off the fin

The videos I watched used an anvil or heavy steel plate as a backer and that hard to find brass mallet. Sometimes a little knowledge is a dangerous thing..

 

[DennisG01]

The wood is only to spread the load a little bit and keep from denting the skeg. The large hammer, rested against the OTHER side of the skeg is needed to focus the blow from the first hammer. It also helps to protect the skeg from breaking. I'm probably not explaining it quite right, and while there are times you are hitting hard, you also have to sort-of "feel" what you're doing and do just a little bit at a time, moving the impact zone around/back-n-forth. Even then, sometimes it may break.

 

[seasick]

The wood is only to spread the load a little bit and keep from denting the skeg. The large hammer, rested against the OTHER side of the skeg is needed to focus the blow from the first hammer. It also helps to protect the skeg from breaking. I'm probably not explaining it quite right, and while there are times you are hitting hard, you also have to sort-of "feel" what you're doing and do just a little bit at a time, moving the impact zone around/back-n-forth. Even then, sometimes it may break.

The video of the 'pro' doing the repair shows how the brass mallet really helps as it transfers the force of the blow as well as deforms a bit to spread out the force. It works like a malleable dead blow hammer. After the fact, I suspect that a piece of dense leather on the hammer head would have helped.

 

[DennisG01]

No question about it, there's more than one way to do it. I do agree that a dead blow hammer and the brass, being a softer metal, would be good tools for the job. I've used those, as well, and they are nice to use. I mentioned the hammers and wood as it would likely be something the avg Joe had laying around. For clarification, I meant a smaller piece of wood - nothing too thick.

I've never thought about the leather - but that seems like a good idea, also.

 

[grady23]

Welding or heating the skeg most likely will require removing the gear set and seals to avoid further damage from the heat transfer.

 

[Fishtales]

Depending on how far up the break/bend is should help with the decision. If not too far, then option zero is the best, maybe a bolt on if you feel you need it or the weld. As stated, you may want to spend the money and have the gears removed else a lower unit may be in your future.

 

[seasick]

Welding or heating the skeg most likely will require removing the gear set and seals to avoid further damage from the heat transfer.

My research shows that if welded correctly, heat gets to the gearcase. The method is to TIG weld and do small sections at a time. There should be no damage to seals or gears. LU oil should be left in for the welding and replaced afterwards as a precaution.

 

[Doc Stressor]

Where I live, welding skegs is a normal part of maintenance since we have shallow water and lime rock everywhere. Here are a few tips:

1. Nobody uses stainless steel skeg guards. The problems are two-fold. The aluminum skeg will corrode in saltwater where it comes into contact with the dissimilar stainless steel. The replacement skegs break off at the bolts when you bump bottom. They break much more frequently than a welded repaired skeg.

2. If you want to do a no weld replacement yourself, the best way to go is a rubber or composite product like the Skeg-Boot. You put these on with 5200 and they act as sort of a shock absorber and sacrificial element to protect the prop. Some guys around here like them a lot. However, you need to have most the skeg remaining in order to use one of these for repair.

3. TIG welding a shaped aluminum replacement skeg is the way it's done around here most of the time. They typically charge $70-$90 including the part. Some guys don't even bother taking the lower unit off of the boat to do the job, but the better guys put the lower unit in a stand and cover the gear area with a wet rag just in case it might get too hot. Some don't bother to cool the lower unit. Most guys don't change the gear oil since it really doesn't get hot at all.

Here is a video that shows how the job is done:

Skeg Repair Video

 

[Fishtales]

The skeg-cover looks like a good option if you have most of the skeg still in tact....