Ski/Tow bar Removal

[Evopro54]

Hi Guys,

Just purchased a 2011 Freedom 255 - the boat will be used primarily for family fishing and cruising.

Does anyone know how to remove the ski/tow bar on the transom?

Thank you very much

 

[Fishtales]

I believe it s a threaded bar. Remove by twisting CCW.

 

[Evopro54]

Thanks for the response, Fishtales.

I tried unthreading CCW a few times but it won’t budge. Even put a rubber-strap pipe wrench on it and applied a ton of torque but it wouldn’t budge.

I just want to be sure it’s actually threaded before I continue to torque at it - Iplan to spray some cutting oil into the cylinder and maybe apply heat as a last resort.

 

[DennisG01]

I can't say for sure on a Grady, but on many boats, the pole goes to a base plate below the floor and has a locking pin to keep it from twisting. Typically there's some kind of access to get at it - whether a removable pie plate or something else. I suggest taking a better look at things - it will most likely be obvious.

 

[Fishtales]

This may help... Found it on THT.

Removing Ski Pylon - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

The Boating Forum - Removing Ski Pylon - 2013 Grady-White 335 Freedom. Factory installed ski pylon. First two pictures are my boat with pylon attached. Last two pictures were sent to my by Grady. I cannot get this damn thing off. The upper "strap" comes off easy. But I cannot unscrew the pylon...

www.thehulltruth.com

 

[Evopro54]

Thanks again Fishtales, I looked at this as well.

Mine is different as it immediately dives into the bilge area and the base is located there. See the attached pictures. Maybe there is a set screw/pin inside of the round piece? I can't see inside as it is in the opposite direction of the bilge door.

Figured I'd take the last shot at some good opinions before I start destroying it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[DennisG01]

I would assume that the pipe you see sticking out of the base is for drainage? But I wonder why it was designed like that, instead of simply not using the piece that is below the big "nut"... unless water would be drippping on something it should't be and there was originally a hose attached to that nipple to direct the water somewhere else?

I'm still just guessing at all this, but that pipe is awful low compared to where the end of the pylon would be to use a set screw (or similar).

But, based on what Fish mentioned, and seeing that big nut... "unscrewing the pylon" seems to hold a lot of merit.

I bet Grady would help you.

 

[glacierbaze]

Is the white piece in the 3rd pic the bottom of the actual pylon, or is the pylon inside of that?

 

[Fishtales]

I would assume that the pipe you see sticking out of the base is for drainage? But I wonder why it was designed like that, instead of simply not using the piece that is below the big "nut"... unless water would be drippping on something it should't be and there was originally a hose attached to that nipple to direct the water somewhere else?

I'm still just guessing at all this, but that pipe is awful low compared to where the end of the pylon would be to use a set screw (or similar).

But, based on what Fish mentioned, and seeing that big nut... "unscrewing the pylon" seems to hold a lot of merit.

I bet Grady would help you.

Yea, does look like a nut. If it does screw in, I'd say it is likely frozen in place. Maybe try some heat followed by penetrating oil. Need to get the latter to work itself into the threads I'd say.

 

[Fishtales]

I'm thinking that it still screws in. GW doesn't change things much once they get a solid design. As stated, maybe shoot GW Cust Service a note via the web link and see what they say. You can't be the first one to have a stuck pipe.

 

[Evopro54]

Grady was able to confirm it was removable by counterclockwise rotation.

Unfortunately, I resulted to a Sawzall and patience.

I tried penetrating oil, heat, pipe/chain wrenches over and over and could not get it to budge.

 

[Fishtales]

ahh too bad. You gotta do what you gotta do.
One suggestion to folks that have these. I'd try some Hylomar Blue (comes in a tube). It is an excellent thread prep that performs and anti-seize function. I used on my boat, motorcycle and old vw bug many times. You can always get things out with it.