I lost my '95 Gulfstream last year, but found 2005 Gulfstream w/ 225 Yamaha in great shape. My problem is the steering is sloppy and hard to turn. I have arthritis and would like to have some type of power steering. Need suggestions. Thanks.
Sloppy Steering
- Thread starter bayson
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Check with Seastar. They make hydraulic steering systems, and have great service. I have their system on my 30' with twins, and can steer with 2 fingers
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Have you tried changing out the fluid and bleeding it??
My steering fluid was nasty when I went to bleed it. Ran all new fluid through the system and seemed to help. My old helm actually gave way and replaced it with a new one last year, much smoother now.
My steering fluid was nasty when I went to bleed it. Ran all new fluid through the system and seemed to help. My old helm actually gave way and replaced it with a new one last year, much smoother now.
If the boat is out of the water, you can check for air in the system by trying to rotate the motor by hand by putting turning pressure on the motor itself. If it has air, it will move side to side and maybe a lot. I agree about checking the fluid level first and the condition of the fluid next. Open the fill port at the helm and add fluid if the level is more that 1/2" below the top. Put the vent cap back on and turn the wheel lock to lock few times. Remove the cap and refill if the level is low again. Repeat until it needs no more fluid. Replace the plug after each fill and before turning the wheel. If you don't you will be wearing fluid. You haven't bled the system yet though . I suggest you start with bleeding some fluid at the ram into a clear jar using a piece of clear tubing slipped on the bleed nipple., you will then be able to see if the fluid looks good or yucky. Based on the oil's condition you may just want to bleed. If you have to or want to drain, you will need at least two quarts of fluid to refill and bleed.
You will need a Seastar or equivalent fill kit for thehelm and bottle connections and a length of 5/16' clear tubing for the ram end bleeding. Bleeding is a two person operation! You can not run back and forth between the helm and the ram.
Go to Seastar's web site for bleeding instructions and follow them.
Bleeding may be all it needs but it may not be. It could have a leak, a corroded helm pump or a clogged helm pump valves. Hopefully, it just needs bleeding
You will need a Seastar or equivalent fill kit for thehelm and bottle connections and a length of 5/16' clear tubing for the ram end bleeding. Bleeding is a two person operation! You can not run back and forth between the helm and the ram.
Go to Seastar's web site for bleeding instructions and follow them.
Bleeding may be all it needs but it may not be. It could have a leak, a corroded helm pump or a clogged helm pump valves. Hopefully, it just needs bleeding
SkunkBoat
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Its also a good idea to disconnect the steering arm from the motor and check to see if the motor itself moves freely by hand.
A 15 year old motor can have dried greased built up in the swivel bracket
A 15 year old motor can have dried greased built up in the swivel bracket
If your system is sloppy and hard to turn and you add power steering, you will have a sloppy system that's easier to turn. One issue at a time.
Thank you for these how to about steering. How about adding some type of power steering?
>>> You certainly CAN add power assist steering to your current set-up. I have a 330 Express with power assist and frankly, I'll never own a boat without it. It works soooo good!. It installs in your hydraulic steering lines sort of like a auto-pilot. It's simply a motorized pump that senses movement at the helm and it kicks in. Boats with big heavy twins like mine benefit from this.
I'd say to call Seastar and ask them about it or do some research on-line. Hope this helps!
>>> You certainly CAN add power assist steering to your current set-up. I have a 330 Express with power assist and frankly, I'll never own a boat without it. It works soooo good!. It installs in your hydraulic steering lines sort of like a auto-pilot. It's simply a motorized pump that senses movement at the helm and it kicks in. Boats with big heavy twins like mine benefit from this.
I'd say to call Seastar and ask them about it or do some research on-line. Hope this helps!
Gman25
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Fishtales
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Can do this. It takes some hydraulic line work. As I recall there are 4 lines into the unit plus power. Unit runs $1500-1800 on the net. Once you get the lines installed, putting it in is fairly easy. Likely the lines are behind the kick panel in the starboard helm. The unit fits right in there and is screwed to the deck. Run 12V from the dash and connect the lines. Bleeding is easy as you have a raised helm and the air comes to the wheel fairly fast and easy. Don't forget to the the fluid and kit from Seastar for installing the fluid into the steering box. Can get on Amazon.
Does your boat have a tilt helm? The tilt mechanism tends to wear out and get sloppy. On my sailfish it was the reason my steering was loose and would cause the wheel to bind while turning. A new tilt mechanism and she’s as good as new. I can’t believe the difference.
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Hopefully he will troubleshoot the existing issue before adding the power assist and put a bandaid on the original problem.
Fishtales
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I was amazed how easy it was to bleed the steering on a raised helm GW. I didn't have to bleed at the motors, all the air worked itself to the helm and it was easy peasy to get out. Just get the Seastar kit (about $9 on Amazon - a screw connector for the helm thread on the steering unit, a see thru tube and a screw connector that fits the quart bottle of fluid. Just work the steering side to side unpowered and later powered (if you install the power assist) and the bubbles all come right up. I have done this the last 2 years as I changed the black plastic Seastar lines that run thru the aft bulkhead to the motors as one chaffed and actually blew. Really easy and something I did by myself.
If you had air aft in the cylinder, there is just about zero probability that you got it out without bleeding the cylinder(s) aft. The steering will feel fine for a while but will slowly redevelop the sloppiness. I'll bet a beer on that
Proper bleeding needs two people and also requires you to follow Seastar's bleeding procedure.
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If you had air aft in the cylinder, there is just about zero probability that you got it out without bleeding the cylinder(s) aft. The steering will feel fine for a while but will slowly redevelop the sloppiness. I'll bet a beer on that
Proper bleeding needs two people and also requires you to follow Seastar's bleeding procedure.
Yep, I'm with seasick on this one. It takes 2 people and the bleeding procedure in the installation manual for the cylinder. Unless you have one of the Seastar power purge at your disposal, you didn't get all the air out.
Fishtales
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If you had air aft in the cylinder, there is just about zero probability that you got it out without bleeding the cylinder(s) aft. The steering will feel fine for a while but will slowly redevelop the sloppiness. I'll bet a beer on that
Proper bleeding needs two people and also requires you to follow Seastar's bleeding procedure.
Well been 2 years on one motor and more than 1 on the other with the power assist pump changes. So if we meet up, I'll take a cold Harpoon!
I'll sort of take your word on it but something isn't right. It may be possible that the power steering pump changes the bleeding procedure as it may in effect act like the power purge product. If that is true, I will still owe you the beer but deep down will still think I am correct in the typical non power steering scenario!
Fishtales
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No prob, just reporting how it worked out... I didn't need to bleed at the engines year 1 when I changed to two black hydraulic lines that exit the bulkhead after one burst. Year 2 I was going to do the other engine but the pump went first. So last year, I did both the port lines to the engine and the pump and only had to bleed at the wheel. I'll verify operation for sure this year when I splash but everything worked well. Even the power assist pump was better - quiet as heck. The first one lasted 13 seasons but did make a slight whine noise when turned for all 13 years prior to it failing.