spring maintenance or not

cool change

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hello all , just wanted to throw this out there for debate.. this past year 2017 season I really didn't use my boat as much as I wanted too[ about 25 to 30 hours] I changed all my filters sparkplugs and lower oil in the spring of 2017. Do I have to change everything once again this spring being I only put 35hrs max on her all last season thanks motor is a Yamaha 200 OX66
 

journeyman

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I'll throw a few comments/questions in here for discussion's sake...

Are you in a cold climate? If so, lower end oil should be changed out in the fall before it could create a problem if there is water intrusion in the gear case causing damage due to freezing.

Do you trailer or slip/moor your boat? If you trailer, things can be done after the season starts that would be easier to do than after launching for the season. For example, an oil/filter change, is much easier on a trailer than when slipped. Also, removing the prop and checking for fishing line that could damage your shaft seal is more difficult done in the water.

Spark plugs and water separator change out can probably wait and could be done later, depending on weather things go smoothly for you this spring.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is a cost/convenience factor involved here that you'll have to weigh. If you don't give her the once-over now, what's it gonna cost you later...........
 

Parthery

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My local shop charged me $21 last year to drain the lower unit, replace the o-rings, and refill it. Included in that $21 bill was removing the prop, greasing the shaft, checking the seals, and reassembling everything. I stood there and watched while they did it. (Yes - it was a Yamaha trained mechanic.) Yes - I'll be using them again this season.

I changed the fuel filter myself - cost me around $20 on Amazon for a Yamaha cartridge. 6 plugs was around $13.

In short...little maintenance items make me feel better and seem to make the boat run better. It's worth it to me.
 

DennisG01

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Time is often as much of a factor as actual use, but...

If you used a good synthetic gear oil like Merc's Hi-Perf stuff, then I would simply drain a little to check for water and, most likely, not worry about changing it. If you use a dino oil, I would change it. Plugs - pull them and look at them. If they're just a bit dirty, clean them, re-check the gap and reuse. Filters - most definitely re-use unless you find you have water in the fuel (dump the boat-mounted fuel/water separator into a glass jar to check). I installed a vacuum gauge on my filter head so I known when to change it. When is the last time you checked/cleaned the O2 sensor and that little air passageway piece (looks like a tiny barbell)? Do you use RingFree+ and something like Startron religiously?
 

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DennisG01 said:
. I installed a vacuum gauge on my filter head so I known when to change it.
Ok Dennis, you got me on this one.
How does this work?
Mike
 

DennisG01

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Mike, the vacuum gauge gets installed on the extra "out" port that most boat-mounted filter heads have. A good filter will allow very little resistance (maybe 1-ish) to flow. As the filter gets used and starts to plug up, the resistance will increase. When it gets too high, it's time to change the filter. I'm not opposed to spending the $10 a year on a new filter, but it's really a waste of good filter every year when they will most likely last many years. It's also another "tool" that can be used when diagnosing a running problem as it will essentially tell you if there is a fuel supply problem from the filter, back to the tank. Helps to narrow things down.

This is the one I used, although it would be nicer to find one with say a 1" to 15" range as opposed to 1" to 30" - but this one does just fine for me.
 

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That’s a good tip Dennis. Was there supposed to be a pic?
 

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I installed a Racor filter on mine so I know this will hook right up.
I see it’s oil filled to protect it from shock.
Is yours permently installed on the filter?
Mike
 

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by season I mean 6 warm months. If you are in Florida thats another story...
Though you didn't use it much, it still sat after being used and that is just as bad as being used, especially in salt.
You didn't mention bottom paint so I assume trailer?

I think it is probably wise to remove the lower unit every season so you never have a problem when you eventually try... can you say "$napped bolt$"..
The water pump impeller will last a couple seasons but when it goes, its a big problem and you are underway and screwed.
That is a true MAINTENANCE item. You replace it when its still GOOD. This really is a do it yourself job for $35. Doing that job forces you to remove the lower unit.
Gear oil, grease, and fuel water separator....MAINTENANCE.
On 2 strokes, generally spark plugs are a seasonal thing due to carbon and oil buildup. You can clean them...but you have to take them out so why not replace them...
Thermostats...same thing..you have to remove them to inspect and prevent snapped bolts and corroded housings. So they'll at least need a new gasket...so why not change them.

Zincs can last several seasons but they should be brushed clean and inspected.

I am new to my Ox66s this year and I hear that cleaning the O2 sensor is a must.
I see that there are a couple anodes in the cylinder block that should be inspected/replaced, they require gaskets too.

Doing these things at the beginning forces you to look at the engine, run it with the cover off...find the "oh crap, that don't look good"
 

Fishtales

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since you did all the filters, I'd do just the fluids. Check the balance of items though.
 

cool change

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thank u everyone, the cost is not the issue just was wondering was it really needed in general. I change my lower gear oil every fall reguardless for freezing reasons. boat is docked at marina all season and bottom painted every spring. I live in new york where we have cold winters.. I know specs say change everything about 100 hrs
 

cool change

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DennisG01 said:
Time is often as much of a factor as actual use, but...

If you used a good synthetic gear oil like Merc's Hi-Perf stuff, then I would simply drain a little to check for water and, most likely, not worry about changing it. If you use a dino oil, I would change it. Plugs - pull them and look at them. If they're just a bit dirty, clean them, re-check the gap and reuse. Filters - most definitely re-use unless you find you have water in the fuel (dump the boat-mounted fuel/water separator into a glass jar to check). I installed a vacuum gauge on my filter head so I known when to change it. When is the last time you checked/cleaned the O2 sensor and that little air passageway piece (looks like a tiny barbell)? Do you use RingFree+ and something like Startron religiously?
hey dennis.... I just changed 02sensor in the spring and that little barbell looking thing . I always use yam ringfree and just changed VST filter as well
 

cool change

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SkunkBoat said:
by season I mean 6 warm months. If you are in Florida thats another story...
Though you didn't use it much, it still sat after being used and that is just as bad as being used, especially in salt.
You didn't mention bottom paint so I assume trailer?

I think it is probably wise to remove the lower unit every season so you never have a problem when you eventually try... can you say "$napped bolt$"..
The water pump impeller will last a couple seasons but when it goes, its a big problem and you are underway and screwed.
That is a true MAINTENANCE item. You replace it when its still GOOD. This really is a do it yourself job for $35. Doing that job forces you to remove the lower unit.
Gear oil, grease, and fuel water separator....MAINTENANCE.
On 2 strokes, generally spark plugs are a seasonal thing due to carbon and oil buildup. You can clean them...but you have to take them out so why not replace them...
Thermostats...same thing..you have to remove them to inspect and prevent snapped bolts and corroded housings. So they'll at least need a new gasket...so why not change them.

Zincs can last several seasons but they should be brushed clean and inspected.

I am new to my Ox66s this year and I hear that cleaning the O2 sensor is a must.
I see that there are a couple anodes in the cylinder block that should be inspected/replaced, they require gaskets too.

Doing these things at the beginning forces you to look at the engine, run it with the cover off...find the "oh crap, that don't look good"
hey skunk boat I change my water pump every spring along with thermstats and popet valve but with such low hours am I throwing away money