Spring startup problems Yamaha 250/24' Offshore

[jwsonas]

Just tried to start up the Yamaha after mechanically prepping it to my best ability. I grew up maintaining my smaller outboards, but this one's a different animal.
I changed out the fuel filter, water/fuel separator filter, checked and refreshed the fuel (no water detected in tank), replenished oil reserve tank, battery charged, new plugs. All systems go...wrong.
Turns over but doesn't sound like it's getting fuel, not sure how to prime the system. I'm just guessing this is the issue but I don't know for sure...any thoughts?...HELP!

 

[gw204]

There will either be a squeeze ball in the fuel supply line to the engine or you will have an electric primer w/ switch on the dash.

You do have the safety lanyard plugged in, right?

 

[jwsonas]

thanks, I did find the bulb (no switch on my dash), but it doesn't seem to be priming, maybe an obstruction in the line? I'll look at that again.
and, yes, I have forgotten the lanyard in the past. I was sure to check that first this time!

 

[OdessaTim]

If you changed out the fuel filter ahead of the engine after the boat sat for a long time there is no fuel getting to the engine. Pressing the ball (a lot) may eventually get the fuel primed to the engine. If not, I have sometimes had to add fuel to the filter to help it along. I boat year round so normally when I change the filter there is still enough gas in the lines to start the engine and it will prime itself. However, sometimes it will starve for fuel and you have to pump like a madman or add fuel to the filter.

 

[jwsonas]

Thanks Odessa. The water separater is mounted separately before the engin, actual fuel filter assembly is on the engine. I did replenish both filters, filled the engine fuel filter container with fuel, but not to the full mark (about 3/4), I'll fill that to the top. And I'll keep on primin'...

 

[nortonpk]

You may have the same problem that I had

I have a 2005 GW tournament with a F250 Yamaha. Upon launching the boat for the first time this year, I could not get the boat on plane. Initially the boat ran fine slightly above idle at about 1200 rpm’s. When I attempted to bring it up to 3,500 RPM’s it stalled before reaching 2,500. From that point on I could barely keep it at idle, it would just stall. I had to get it towed back to the boat ramp were I loaded it back on the trailer and hauled it to Baert Marine GW/Yamaha dealer in Middleton, MA.

At the dealership I explained what had happened and gave them a detailed list of prior work that I had done for winterizing and spring commissioning that could be related to this problem. Specifically, I replaced the 10 micron boat fuel filter and water separator filter on the motor in the fall. I replaced the “F” filter and the VST filter and changed plugs this spring. The tech typed all this information correctly into the repair order (so I thought).

They then hooked it up to a computer and tested fuel pumps and they both worked, but had no fuel pressure, no fuel flow to the motor from the water sep filter. They proceeded to change all the brand new filters that I just put in. (this information never got typed into the repair order) they also changed the plugs which had 10 minutes running time on them. (This was a mix up because the repair order said “replace plugs” instead of “replaced plugs”).

Then they discovered the real problem. The outside of the fuel line at the rigging tube connection to the engine was deteriorated and the fuel line was kinked restricting the flow of fuel. The inside of the coextruded tubing was in good shape but the outer layer was corroded from the leaking E-10 fuel. In addition to the damage to the fuel line the leak also caused the outer jacket of the “Speedo hose” (Throttle cable?) to deteriorate and it needed to be replaced. See pictures. (could not attach?)


The dealer commented that they have seen this before. They also said that a design change was made to fix this problem. They now use Oetiker clamps instead of worm type clamps; also the rigging grommet design has been changed to allow the connection to float freely in the rigging tube. $700. later, Hopefully this has fixed the problem.

 

[CatTwentyTwo]

When you're squeezing the primer bulb, are you holding the bulb vertical with the arrow pointing up? The check valve in the bulb works much better that way.

 

[Tucker]

Replacing Rigging Tubing

Ok seached this and found Norton's post and don't want to have the same problem he had. I did stb engine this weekend and not happy with the outcome. I replaced the rubber motor grommet with the new plastic one designed to let the cables float. Is it common to for the fuel line to be wrapped in a heater hose? Looks like it was done to eliminate kinking. Having problems lining up throttle and shift linkage. Yea, I lubed everything up with dish soap, still things are tight coming through the grommet. Making sure I did everything right: cut new hose to same length as old hose, mount hull flange to hose, thread hoses, electrical, etc through hose, thread everything through motor side grommet, screw grommet onto hose, mount grommet onto motor lower cowling. What am I doing wrong?

 

[cgmiller]

JW,

My dad has a 2001 150 OX66 that has worked flawlessly for 8 seasons. Winterized it as usual and dragged it to florida a few months later....could not get the bastard to fire up..checked everything..turned out to be the small plastic check valve in the fuel line between the engine mounted fuel/water separator and the fuel pump. Local dealer removed the check valve, which was stuck closed and the engine fired right up.