Starboard question

BlueFlu15

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Hi- I’m finally replacing the marine boards under the steering in my 228 with starboard. I was planning on using the originals as a template and using a router. (See pic) I’ve never worked with starboard before. Any tips / tricks that I should be aware of? Shout out to TAP plastics for thier seafoam starboard pricing. Decent price and quick delivery. Any suggestions are appreciated
 

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You will have a light snowfall for 10 feet around your work area. I like to work on a tarp, with a cardboard shield around the router, to make clean up easier. If your router has a good vacuum attachment, that will help.
 
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just did it on mine. just used a circular saw and jig saw. very easy came out great. screwed capacity sticker back on.
 
Basically, you work it just like wood. Nothing special.

One caveat is that it has a relatively high temperature-related expansion and contraction rate - more-so than other things like expanded PVC board. I believe those pieces are small enough where it may be just fine. It's longer lengths where it sometimes causes buckling of the product or screw pop-out. But you may want to oversize your screw holes to allow for expansion.
 
Table saw is a must for truly straight long cuts.
use OSB/Plywood circular saw blade. Lots of small teeth. Don't use a normal construction blade.

Drills will grab. you are warned.

Screws will cause a bump on the back side and possibly the front. Run them thru then back them all out and cut off or countersink the bump and then put them back.

yes the chips will fly with the router.
 
I did the same on my 228 a few years ago but I had the plastics shop do all the cutting and routering for me using the original pieces as a temple, worked great.
 
I've found I get the best finish using a jig saw with a Bosch Progressor wood blade like (below). it has zero tooth set so makes a smooth cut.... and you can take it to the belt sander to radius /sand the corners.
but for straight cuts use the table saw. I have no experience tracing patterns with the router but it does a nice job or radiusing the edges

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Table saw and jig saw have been all I really needed working with starboard. Small sander to help smooth things out after cutting.
 
Ditto on drill holes front and back and plywood blade. A good circular saw/blade a piece of aluminum angle stock and clamps will give a good straight cut. I move the work station out on the grass most of the time and voila the chips are gone next mowing.
 
Stuff is easy to work with as stated. It isn't structual though. Panel use is fine.
 
I'd take your old ones and let TAP use them as a template. For the cost , time and set up it's well worth it. We did this and worked out great
 
I know the OP already bought the starboard but for that application you could use 1/2" PVC panel like Azek or Verdana
Especially if the cut edges are going to be hidden

Less expensive and lighter.
 
Finally got around to cutting and installing this with a skill saw and a jig saw vs my original plan with a router. Pretty happy with the results consider it was my first time cutting / working with Starboard. Thanks for everyone’s help (especially on the jig blade). Still need to screw on the capacity plate, but the heavy lifting is done.
 

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Finally got around to cutting and installing this with a skill saw and a jig saw vs my original plan with a router. Pretty happy with the results consider it was my first time cutting / working with Starboard. Thanks for everyone’s help (especially on the jig blade). Still need to screw on the capacity plate, but the heavy lifting is done.
Looks very nice. I like that you reused the piping.