Steering and engine tilt button

igblack87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
291
Reaction score
46
Points
28
Model
Fisherman 222
Hi everyone,

I hope the summer has been great weather for boating and you all have been out on the water! Recently there has been some great weather here in Boston which calls for some GradyWhite fun!

I have a 2001 GradyWhite 180 with a 2001 130 Saltwater Series 2 stroke. The steering has become somewhat more difficult since I purchased the boat 3 years ago. I am wondering if I need to replace a cable or...

I have also lost the use of the engine tilt button on the throttle lever. How easy of a fix is that? I am almost positive that is due some type of corrosion. The tilt button on the engine itself works fine...just a pain to use that to trim while under way!

Any suggestions on fixes for these? I would rather do this myself but dont think that I have the technical know how. Should they be left for a mechanic (not trying to pay shop fees!)

Thanks for your help,
Ian
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,530
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
igblack87 said:
Hi everyone,

I hope the summer has been great weather for boating and you all have been out on the water! Recently there has been some great weather here in Boston which calls for some GradyWhite fun!

I have a 2001 GradyWhite 180 with a 2001 130 Saltwater Series 2 stroke. The steering has become somewhat more difficult since I purchased the boat 3 years ago. I am wondering if I need to replace a cable or...

I have also lost the use of the engine tilt button on the throttle lever. How easy of a fix is that? I am almost positive that is due some type of corrosion. The tilt button on the engine itself works fine...just a pain to use that to trim while under way!

Any suggestions on fixes for these? I would rather do this myself but dont think that I have the technical know how. Should they be left for a mechanic (not trying to pay shop fees!)

Thanks for your help,
Ian
Assuming that the steering is more difficult turning BOTH to port and to starboard while at rest and under power and at speed, the cable probably needs replacement although there are other possible causes such as a binding trunion on the motor, bad/corroded steering rod or perhaps a bad steering box ( less common).
If steering is hard turning to one side only underway, check the condition and position of the trim tab on the cavitation plate.

Problems with the throttle tilt switch are common; often one direction acts up before the other. E.g. it goes up but not down. The switch can be removed and can be opened up. I had problems several years ago, took it apart and cleaned the contacts and it has worked fine since (much to my delight). The switch can also be replaced but before, you should make sure that all connectors are good.
I don't remember exactly ow I got to the switch but I think I removed the screws holding the trim plate, remove the plastic housing and then unscrewed the throttle handle plastic cover to open it. The switch can then be popped out.
 

Parthery

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
2,589
Reaction score
220
Points
63
Location
Atlanta, GA
Do you have hydraulic steering or cable steering?

If cable steering, then Seasick's comments are spot on. If it's hydraulic steering, you may just be low on fluid. However, you need to figure out where the fluid is going...it's not uncommon for the seals on the ram unit to wear out. The kit runs about $100 or so to replace both sides, if that's the case.

The replacement trim switches run around $65 or so...you do have to disassemble the handle to pop it out and replace it.
 

igblack87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
291
Reaction score
46
Points
28
Model
Fisherman 222
Thanks everyone. I just want to make it understood that I do not have trim tabs...just engine tilt. I will look for a diagram of the throttle configuration and use that to...I guess guide me along the journey.

Ill probably do this at the end of the season so I dont cramp any of my sacred boating days!

Thank you all,
Ian
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,530
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
Parthery said:
Do you have hydraulic steering or cable steering?

If cable steering, then Seasick's comments are spot on. If it's hydraulic steering, you may just be low on fluid. However, you need to figure out where the fluid is going...it's not uncommon for the seals on the ram unit to wear out. The kit runs about $100 or so to replace both sides, if that's the case.

The replacement trim switches run around $65 or so...you do have to disassemble the handle to pop it out and replace it.

Shame on me for not mentioning your steering type point. Of course I would be surprised if that hull at 18 feet had hydraulic steering but you never know.
 

igblack87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
291
Reaction score
46
Points
28
Model
Fisherman 222
I replaced the steering cable and that is all set. The thing that I am most aggravated at is the engine tilt on the throttle handle. I am kind of a newby to this...looked at the diagram at my local marina and it looks quite complicated to replace such a little wire/electronic piece. Can anyone that has done this shed some light on how or what I might find when taking the throttle lever and housing apart?

Thanks,
Ian
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,530
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
igblack87 said:
I replaced the steering cable and that is all set. The thing that I am most aggravated at is the engine tilt on the throttle handle. I am kind of a newby to this...looked at the diagram at my local marina and it looks quite complicated to replace such a little wire/electronic piece. Can anyone that has done this shed some light on how or what I might find when taking the throttle lever and housing apart?

Thanks,
Ian
All you want to do is remove the plastic trim from the handle itself. I do not remember if there is one or two screws and exactly how the plastic trim comes off but for me it was relatively intuitive. The switch itself , again if I remember correctly, was just pressed into place. I was able to pop it out, remove the connector and then work on the switch. It came apart easily and all I did was clean up the contacts. Once you get to it, you might have luck spraying a cleaner into it. It's worth a shot. Reconnect the wires and see if the switch works.
 

igblack87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
291
Reaction score
46
Points
28
Model
Fisherman 222
Thanks seasick. If it is just the housing then it might be easier than I originally thought. If the contact and switch are corroded beyond a clean up...how involved is it to replace?

Any pictures?

Thanks,
Ian
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,530
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
igblack87 said:
Thanks seasick. If it is just the housing then it might be easier than I originally thought. If the contact and switch are corroded beyond a clean up...how involved is it to replace?

Any pictures?

Thanks,
Ian
The switch has connectors and is just pressed in place. Assuming you get it out, have the same new part, installing should be a breeze.
Good luck