Steering wheel replacement

OffDuty

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OK, so I'm wanting to replace the steering wheel that is on my 1998 Sailfish. I believe the original wheel to be of the "destroyer" style. I also believe it to be a 15 inch wheel. I was thinking I would like to get a wheel that has a "speed knob". What advice could I get on this from the Grady crowd. The current wheel is kind of big and deep, contributing to feeling a little cramped between the wheel and the seat even with the seat adjusted be furthest from the wheel. Looking on some www sites I see wheels that are relatively flat (less deep) as opposed to the destroyer style. And wheels that are a little smaller (13" versus 15"). How do I know which wheel will be mechanically compatible with the steering system and what size the shaft and nut have to be to fit the steering system. Also any advice on if this is an advisable change or not?

Thank you all in advance,

Chuck
 

seasick

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OffDuty said:
OK, so I'm wanting to replace the steering wheel that is on my 1998 Sailfish. I believe the original wheel to be of the "destroyer" style. I also believe it to be a 15 inch wheel. I was thinking I would like to get a wheel that has a "speed knob". What advice could I get on this from the Grady crowd. The current wheel is kind of big and deep, contributing to feeling a little cramped between the wheel and the seat even with the seat adjusted be furthest from the wheel. Looking on some www sites I see wheels that are relatively flat (less deep) as opposed to the destroyer style. And wheels that are a little smaller (13" versus 15"). How do I know which wheel will be mechanically compatible with the steering system and what size the shaft and nut have to be to fit the steering system. Also any advice on if this is an advisable change or not?

Thank you all in advance,

Chuck
If you have mechanical steering, you will notice a difference in steering effort with a smaller wheel. If steering effort is a concern with the 15, I would't even think about a 13.
If you don't have tilt, adding it might help the space issue between wheel and seat.
 

Parthery

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Easy change...although you may need a wheel puller to get the old one off. The nut is head specfic....if you have a SeaStar, specify that when you buy the wheel so you get the right nut.

One thing to think about is be careful at what angle you install the wheel, relative to the spinner knob. It can be painful for a male if you end up with the spinner in the wrong place when the boat is running straight. Don't ask me how I know.... :wow
 

Fishtales

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The manufacturer for the destroyer and newer spoke version is Schmitt. They offer the newer spoke design both without and with the ball knob. It looks like they may have merged with Ongaro. Here is a link to a pic of the one with the integrated ball: http://schmittongaromarine.com/index.ph ... uctgallery
These are SS wheels made in China though. The 15" one with out the ball knob is stock on the GW and appear to hold up very well in the marine environment. As stated they offer the 13" as well.
 

mboyatt

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Offduty, this is an easy project. I replaced my destroyer wheel with one of the fancy new 3 spoke stainless wheels you see on all the new Grady whites. You will need the 15" wheel that fits a 3/4 " tapered shaft. If you have hydraulic power steering, you will need the 5/8" decorative nut that holds the wheel on. You will also need a steering wheel puller - you can get one from auto zone for 20 bucks. Takes less than 10 minutes to swap it out. I tried removing the old wheel by tapping the shaft with a hammer while someone pulls at the wheel. Did not work for me. Got the wheel puller from the auto parts store and the old wheel came off in seconds. Good luck with your project!
 
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Fishtales

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agree with myboyatt. you may get lucky and be able to tap it off without a puller. i was able to do this with a small block of wood and a hammer. worth a try before going to the store.....
 
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seasick

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mboyatt said:
Offduty, this is an easy project. I replaced my destroyer wheel with one of the fancy new 3 spoke stainless wheels you see on all the new Grady whites. You will need the 15" wheel that fits a 3/4 " tapered shaft. If you have hydraulic power steering, you will need the 5/8" decorative nut that holds the wheel on. You will also need a steering wheel puller - you can get one from auto zone for 20 bucks. Takes less than 10 minutes to swap it out. I tried removing the old wheel by tapping the shaft with a hammer while someone pulls at the wheel. Did not work for me. Got the wheel puller from the auto parts store and the old wheel came off in seconds. Good luck with your project!

he did originally ask about replacing the 15 with a 13 in wheel. Space was his major concern I think.
 

mboyatt

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Both the 13" and 15" wheels will fit the 3/4" tapered shaft on the helm pump. No issues there. Same applies to the decorative nut that holds the wheel on. If you have hydraulic steering, then you get the 5/8" decorative nut. It works on either size steering wheel. Regarding stepping down from a 15 to a 13" wheel, you can certainly do that withou harming anything. The question will be, does the smaller wheel require you to turn the wheel more while docking, etc... In other words, the larger wheel would require less revolutions of the wheel to turn the motor all the way port or starboard. I have not stepped down to the 13" wheel, but what I have read is that it is no big deal. It probably wouldn't impact you that much. You may not even notice. If you need the space that bad, the 13" may be worth a shot. You can always buy it from a place that takes exchanges. If you don't like the feel, swap it out for the slightly more expensive 15". Hope this is helpful to you!
 

Capt. Ed

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I can see how a smaller wheel might increase effort to turn, but I'm having trouble understanding how it increases the number of revolutions required to turn the motor all the way to either side?
 

mboyatt

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I would defer to captain Ed. I have swapped out 15 inchers for the same, but never stepped down a size. I know it changes some aspect of steering. From what I have read, people have stepped down without issues on hydraulic rigs. Again, why not give it a try and exchange it if you don't like it. I ordered my 15 inch online and they allowed returns. Might be worth a shot.
 

seasick

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Capt. Ed said:
I can see how a smaller wheel might increase effort to turn, but I'm having trouble understanding how it increases the number of revolutions required to turn the motor all the way to either side?

It doesn't. It does increase the required steering force. How much? 13.3% more torque. That may or may not be an issue. As I mentioned, if steering is a bit tought to turn with the 15, the change to 13 will make a noticible difference. Also as the required torque increases, the usefullness of a knob lessens since you may need more than one hand to turn the wheel. Of cours those are not big issues if steering is hydraulic or power assisted.
 
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Zeebr00k

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I have a 2000 228 seafarer, I want to change mine out which is the destroyer style to the newer 3 spoke stainless too, does anyone know what size and specs I need to get?
Thanks in advance all
 

Fishtales

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3 spoke steering wheel with the integrated control knob. GW uses the 15" wheel.
Manufacturer is Schmidt. Model is 720, it comes with our without the control knob.
Part number is 7201521FGK with the control knob.
Part number is 7201521FG without the control knob.
It is a 316L cast wheel. 3/4" tapered shaft and stainless steel nut. You may need a wheel puller or might be able to get off with a rubber mallet and some tapping.
There is a 13" wheel offered if you want a little more room at the helm, but likely will require more wheel rotation to steer.


http://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/bo ... ntrol-knob
 

Fishtales

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Your welcome. I actually lifted it from another post I responded to in the past. When I did mine, it was easy to remove the wheel (no puller required). Just tapped it off with a rubber hammer. Can't say they will all be that easy.
 

Recoil Rob

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"There is a 13" wheel offered if you want a little more room at the helm, but likely will require more wheel rotation to steer."
You sure about that? It will require more torque to turn but not more rotations....
 

hooked on Grady

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Think of it this way, the wheel as a lever, the longer the lever the more leverage you gain. therefore it should be a little more difficult to turn the 13" wheel. As for more turns, the further from the center point you go the larger the turning radius gets the less the wheel needs to travel to get to its stopping point. so a 13" wheel would spin further to reach the stops than would a fifteen.
 
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hooked on Grady

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I just took my wheel off. Needed to drill holes, insert bolts and use a wheel puller to remove. I have a tilt steering Sea star unit with that 15" wheel. It is gone for a new 13" shallower wheel because most of the time I am standing up while driving it will afford me some extra room. Also I have a ball that can be turned out of the way, it would be nice to get that again but I don't think ill find it in the new 3 spoke model wheels
 

seasick

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The original post is 8 years old. No wonder I can't remember responding:)
 

Recoil Rob

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As for more turns, the further from the center point you go the larger the turning radius gets the less the wheel needs to travel to get to its stopping point. so a 13" wheel would spin further to reach the stops than would a fifteen.
Sorry, I don't buy it. The wheel turns the shaft and 10 turns on 13" wheel turns the shaft 10 times, as does 10 turns on a 15" wheel. You might have a point if the shaft diameter changed but these are both 3/4" shafts.

Less effort the further you go from the center, that's just leverage.