Storage lids structural cracks

[Pfu]

Both the livewell and storage lids on my 2000 232 have cracks at the hinges and really should be replaced. I have seen several posts on using existing as patterns but this really is out of my league. With folks having done it, what is the possibility of reusing/purchasing the patterns versus bringing to a shop and starting from scratch? If anyone knows of a contact that may have created the lids for a 2000 232, I would be interested.



Lastly, does anyone know how often the 232’s changed designs for such items (thinking of older vehicles where parts were common for three to five years)?

 

[Hookup1]

I have a ‘97 Islander. Hardtop, hatches and lids are all a problem. I have started refinishing mine with epoxy fairing and paint.

 

[TeK]

I went with starboard anti skid.

Starboard AS | King Starboard AS | Starboard Anti Skid

Shop for King Starboard anti-skid non-slip flooring from Boat Outfitters! Choose from dot or diamond anti-skid patterns to ensure high traffic areas are safe.

www.boatoutfitters.com

Easy to work with too.

 

[DennisG01]

I'm not sure what you mean by reusing/purchasing the patterns?

If it's not something you're feeling comfortable with, then definitely taking the existing lids to a shop will be the most cost effective measure. You can discuss with them repairing vs re-making. If you're not overly concerned with aesthetics then repairing "just for function" will be even less expensive.

Are you sure the cracks are structural? Pics and/or a better exlpanation will help as maybe it IS something you can do yourself with some guidance. But I can't see them from where I am

 

[Hookup1]

I went with starboard anti skid.

Starboard AS | King Starboard AS | Starboard Anti Skid

Shop for King Starboard anti-skid non-slip flooring from Boat Outfitters! Choose from dot or diamond anti-skid patterns to ensure high traffic areas are safe.

www.boatoutfitters.com

Easy to work with too.

I'm not a fan of the Starboard for hatches or lids. I have used it to replace some melamine panels that were melting away. Worked great. Repairing the glass work is harder to do but it is a better answer.

Depending on the year (mine included) Hardtop and hatches are not normal fiberglass layups in the mold. They do spray gelcoat into them but then spray the mold with some filler - something other than hand layer up fiberglass mat. The gelcoat doesn't stick that well over time. The hardtop and lids crack. Polyester gelcoat does not bond well to old polyester - mechanical bond not a chemical bond. Problems are usually on the edges. Grind it all off and use an epoxy fairing. If gelcoat is adhered well sand it down. Then either paint it or re-gelcoat. It's important to get a great edge seal otherwise water will get in a push the gelcoat off.

Before and after on hardtop. Hatches/lids same.

 

[TeK]

Idk, everyone has different results. Had my hardtop done in white bedliner 10 years ago and has held up well. Freshwater use. Pic of “starboard “ lid.

 

[Hookup1]

Looks good! It's all a tradeoff - 20/20 vision - 20 feet or 20 knots - whatever you can live with.

 

[Pfu]

I went with starboard anti skid.

Starboard AS | King Starboard AS | Starboard Anti Skid

Shop for King Starboard anti-skid non-slip flooring from Boat Outfitters! Choose from dot or diamond anti-skid patterns to ensure high traffic areas are safe.

www.boatoutfitters.com

Easy to work with too.

Any chance see the flip side? Route out the groove?

 

[Pfu]

I'm not sure what you mean by reusing/purchasing the patterns?

If it's not something you're feeling comfortable with, then definitely taking the existing lids to a shop will be the most cost effective measure. You can discuss with them repairing vs re-making. If you're not overly concerned with aesthetics then repairing "just for function" will be even less expensive.

Are you sure the cracks are structural? Pics and/or a better exlpanation will help as maybe it IS something you can do yourself with some guidance. But I can't see them from where I am

On the starboard the crack is on both sides (can see light through) while the port is cracked on both sides but no light is visible. Assume just a matter of time. Would attach pictures but boat is covered and will not get to it for another month due to death in the family and a daughters wedding.

I did contact a local marine shop referenced from a local fellow boater and will remove from the boat at end of January for them to advise and possible do what is necessary.

As always appreciate ideas and photos of what others have done.

 

[TeK]

Any chance see the flip side? Route out the groove?

It’s covered at the moment, I didn’t router it as the thickness is 1” and it sits level with the hinges.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Lastly, does anyone know how often the 232’s changed designs for such items (thinking of older vehicles where parts were common for three to five years)?

I believe, though I could obviously be mistaken, that your 2000 Grady White 232 Gulfstream should be very similar to a brand new one, with the exception of a few cosmetic changes. Or at least I know that was for the most part pretty true with the 228 Seafarer's when they were still making them new, though the dash and instrument panel changed I think in 2009? Check out their website, look at the pictures of a brand new 232 Gulfstream and see how it compares to your boat. You could also try calling up your local GW dealer, explain the situation to them and see what they recommend? The issues I could potentially see with going new would be possibly a different shade or color of the storage lids, the price and everything else on the boat would be almost 23 years old except the storage lids as they'd look brand new. Have you tried looking on eBay or Craigslist for used GW parts? I know that sometimes they do pop up on there and you might just get lucky. Good luck!

 

[DennisG01]

On the starboard the crack is on both sides (can see light through) while the port is cracked on both sides but no light is visible. Assume just a matter of time. Would attach pictures but boat is covered and will not get to it for another month due to death in the family and a daughters wedding.

I did contact a local marine shop referenced from a local fellow boater and will remove from the boat at end of January for them to advise and possible do what is necessary.

As always appreciate ideas and photos of what others have done.

Ah, OK. That's definitely structural!

 

[Fishtales]

The lids are core with wood not sure if composite now then glassed. The edges have fairing compound to get the rolled over edge and square back features. They are put in a mold in a resin transfer process.
if the core gets wet you will need to rebuild or replace. If in a cold area the edges might chip. Water gets in and freezes. Up north best to cover or shrink to keep the water out.
I agree that the mold likely hasn’t changed. GW may be able to provide. They were fabed in house in the past. If so likely harder to get. If they outsourced you may have better luck.
if that fails I’d see if a local shop can make out of glass or plastic.

 

[steveditt]

Dropped off a anchor hatch to local boat fiberglass guy to be redone, cracks , and splits .$300 to $400 i was told ,I'm sure it will closer to 4

 

[Pfu]

Thanks everyone. Just returned from NC for kid number five wedding (last one ) so now get to start thinking about spending money on my 232. More to come as I meet with local folks.

 

[Fishtales]

Keep us posted on work done and price. Likely something a lot of us will have to do at some point…

 

[PrimeMA]

Idk, everyone has different results. Had my hardtop done in white bedliner 10 years ago and has held up well. Freshwater use. Pic of “starboard “ lid.View attachment 27884

How is this holding up? Are you able to stand on it? I wanted to go this route but was told starboard likely wasn't strong enough?

 

[TeK]

How is this holding up? Are you able to stand on it? I wanted to go this route but was told starboard likely wasn't strong enough?

A few hairline cracks on the edge, my kids would jump off the top. It’s the original top, not starboard and it has always been a freshwater boat.

 

[Fishtales]

Also, the stock lids are made by GW in their glass shop using the Resin Transfer Mold operation. The jigs are very likely gone at this point. I like the starboard too. Double them up and maybe use adhesive and backside SS screws to hold if you want. This way you could come up with a design to deal with the top lip where the cover comes in contact with.