- Joined
- Oct 12, 2017
- Messages
- 4,523
- Reaction score
- 1,619
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Manasquan Inlet NJ
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Model
- Express 265
I have been doing my own maintenance for 700 hours. Here are some tips.
I get OEM zuke parts from Boats.net They have exploded view diagrams and "reasonable" prices.
Order all your stuff at the same time for free shipping. I usually sit at the computer in February with my box of parts and figure out what I need for the spring.
I took some picks of gear oil & grease when I put it away for the season.
I always replace the gaskets on the gear oil plugs. They compress when you tighten them and you should not reuse them.
I have a spare plug and magnetic drain plug in case the slot gets chewed up. Use the proper BIG ASS screwdriver that fits the slot tightly.
Zukes have an "extra" gear oil "vent" hole above the Oil Level hole. This actually allows you to fill from the Oil Level hole. We are all used to pumping up from the Drain hole.
This year I learned that I can, in fact, ditch the pump and just squeeze the bottle into the Oil Level hole. I never used to try squeezing from the drain hole. I used a pump. But then its a mess trying to remove the pump and plug the drain hole.
There are some out of the way zerk fittings that I have pictured.
These zerks only require a little pump of grease.
In the swivel bracket its important to pump enough grease to cause old grease to come out of the TOP. Don't stop just because its coming out the bottom.
On my setup, it is not possible to get the grease gun on the fittings that are behind the steering cylinder. I have to remove the cylinder from the tiller arm and rotate it out of the way. PIA!
While the cylinder is disconnected, its a good idea to test the free movement of the motor swivel (left/right ). After many years, dry grease can bind up at the top.
Always give the cowling clamps some grease and the roller bushings on the cowling. If they go dry you risk snapping the handle off trying to get the cowling off.
I made the mistake of trying to reach up and remove a cowling while standing in the driveway. My hand was gripping the rubber gasket of the cowling and the gasket came off in my hand. The cowling got a road rash in the driveway. Best to do it on a ladder or from inside the boat...
I had a hard time removing the Propellor Stopper Bushing. It should just slide off. I was surprised because I always grease the prop shaft thoroughly. I tried a lot of things including a big ass pipe wrench. It is in a difficult location. You can't get behind it. Finally I found that a VERY LIGHT tap of a tapered sledge hammer loosened it like it was never stuck. The shape of the wedge was perfect to tap the backside of the bushing without hitting the lower unit. It wasn't rusted. IDK why it was stuck.
When I drain the Motor Oil I usually remove the lower clamshell. It gives better access to the filter and makes it easier to get a bucket below the drain.(You absolutely MUST replace the metal drain plug gasket. They give you a bunch of them in your Zuke tool kit.) more to follow on oil changes...
There is a rubber bushing hidden on the port clamshell at the lower screw. If you lose that bushing the clamshell will not stay tight together along the rear seam.
I get OEM zuke parts from Boats.net They have exploded view diagrams and "reasonable" prices.
Order all your stuff at the same time for free shipping. I usually sit at the computer in February with my box of parts and figure out what I need for the spring.
I took some picks of gear oil & grease when I put it away for the season.
I always replace the gaskets on the gear oil plugs. They compress when you tighten them and you should not reuse them.
I have a spare plug and magnetic drain plug in case the slot gets chewed up. Use the proper BIG ASS screwdriver that fits the slot tightly.
Zukes have an "extra" gear oil "vent" hole above the Oil Level hole. This actually allows you to fill from the Oil Level hole. We are all used to pumping up from the Drain hole.
This year I learned that I can, in fact, ditch the pump and just squeeze the bottle into the Oil Level hole. I never used to try squeezing from the drain hole. I used a pump. But then its a mess trying to remove the pump and plug the drain hole.
There are some out of the way zerk fittings that I have pictured.
These zerks only require a little pump of grease.
In the swivel bracket its important to pump enough grease to cause old grease to come out of the TOP. Don't stop just because its coming out the bottom.
On my setup, it is not possible to get the grease gun on the fittings that are behind the steering cylinder. I have to remove the cylinder from the tiller arm and rotate it out of the way. PIA!
While the cylinder is disconnected, its a good idea to test the free movement of the motor swivel (left/right ). After many years, dry grease can bind up at the top.
Always give the cowling clamps some grease and the roller bushings on the cowling. If they go dry you risk snapping the handle off trying to get the cowling off.
I made the mistake of trying to reach up and remove a cowling while standing in the driveway. My hand was gripping the rubber gasket of the cowling and the gasket came off in my hand. The cowling got a road rash in the driveway. Best to do it on a ladder or from inside the boat...
I had a hard time removing the Propellor Stopper Bushing. It should just slide off. I was surprised because I always grease the prop shaft thoroughly. I tried a lot of things including a big ass pipe wrench. It is in a difficult location. You can't get behind it. Finally I found that a VERY LIGHT tap of a tapered sledge hammer loosened it like it was never stuck. The shape of the wedge was perfect to tap the backside of the bushing without hitting the lower unit. It wasn't rusted. IDK why it was stuck.
When I drain the Motor Oil I usually remove the lower clamshell. It gives better access to the filter and makes it easier to get a bucket below the drain.(You absolutely MUST replace the metal drain plug gasket. They give you a bunch of them in your Zuke tool kit.) more to follow on oil changes...
There is a rubber bushing hidden on the port clamshell at the lower screw. If you lose that bushing the clamshell will not stay tight together along the rear seam.
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