Swim Platform Washer Setup

[Doc Stressor]

I removed the port-side swim platform off of my 226 in order to replace some of the stainless hardware that had started to weep rust. I used to be able to remember exactly how things looked so that I could easily reassemble everything. But I seem to have lost that ability. I should have taken a picture.

Can anyone send me a picture or description of how the various SS washers, nylon spacer washers, nyloc, and cap nuts go on the upper arms and ladder hinges of the platform? I think that the swim platforms are the same on all the smaller models without engine brackets.

Here is the upper arm I'm talking about with just the machine screw holding it in place for now:


And here is the ladder hinge:

 

[DennisG01]

I don't have a picture, Doc (although I know what you mean about losing that "ability"!), but the nylon washers always go between the tube and the bracket. If you have the length in the stud, you could add a nylon washer between the head/cap nut and SS washer, as well (meaning, 4 nylons in total). The two on the inside are the important ones.

FYI... weeping rust is more from lack of sealant (or sealant that has dried up). This is called "crevice corrosion". SS will not rust as long as it has good air. If there's a spot (a crevice) where a small amount of water accumulates then the SS doesn't have access to air and you'll get rust. This is why SS is specifically not allowed to be used below the water line. SS = Stains "less"

Old hardware that has gotten scratched in certain ways, by the way, can do the same thing. But "usually" the rust weeping" happens between the hardware and the hull because water is allowed to collect there.

 

[Doc Stressor]

Thanks! That's the way I have the ladder hinge set up. I need to get wider nylon spacers for the upper arm to keep the tube centered. Since it doesn't pivot, it's just a matter of keeping the tube from sliding along the threads of the bolt. The ladder hinge was more of a concern. I don't know if the whole bolt is supposed to rotate when you lift the ladder or if the bolt is supposed to remain stationary. If the cap nuts are supposed to go on the hinge bolts, it would suggest that the system should be loose enough to rotate.

I re-passivated all the SS parts with citric acid, which should re-establish the chromium barrier layer. The rest of the stuff is new marine-grade stainless. They sure charge for that stuff!

 

[DennisG01]

"Marine" = +$. Sometimes you can get the same stuff without the word "marine" in the description. AND... if the word "marine" is preceeded by the word "West"... figure that you're paying double right off the bat!

Yes, the idea is to make the ladder bolt "just tight enough to gently/barely squeeze the bracket against the ladder tube. Just enough to keep it from sounding "cheap" when you flip it up and down. After that, it really doesn't matter.

Try swapping the bolt at the transom bracket for the ladder bracket bolt. They might be slightly different lengths. Then the transom bracket will squeeze together as you tighten. PLUS, use the cap nut at the ladder bracket to better protect people from scratches. Lay a couple pieces of nylon fishing line into the cap nut as you spin it on - it'll make it into a "nyloc". Or just use nyloc nuts at both locations with the proper length stud so the stud doesn't stick out.

I gotta read up on that citric acid trick...