Teak & Holly cabin sole fabrication

[1998sailfish]

A few years ago I posted images of the Teak and Holly cabin sole that I fabricated for our 98 Sailfish 272. When we upgraded to a Marlin 300 last August the first thing my wife requested is that I fab the same for the Marlin. This was easy to accomplish in our shop but a fairly easy " do it yourself " project in a home workshop. The key tool for the project is a bandsaw to create the step and raised table area no sing's. As on the last project I used 1/2" Teak & Holly veneer marine plywood and misc. pieces of Sapelli for the nosing's as well as the sill at the companionway door. Templates were made, pieces cut, matching nosing's cut and glued to the steps, nose edge radius routed, five coats of Epiphanes varnish with the final coat being "dull rubbed". Pieces were allowed to cure then the lifting pull was mortised into the cabin sole and all pieces installed.

Total time including finishing was 1 week.

Material cost was:
One sheet of Teak and Holly plywood $ 380.00
Sapelli pieces $ 30.00
Epiphanes wood finish $ 80.00
Misc fasteners $ 10.00

Wife happy $ priceless

 

[LastChance]

Excellent work. Still got the patterns?

 

[ocnslr]

Pretty work.

 

[jbrinch88]

That came out great, we do tons of these jobs at the yard I work at. Would look even better with the mounting screws countersunk and plugged.

 

[1998sailfish]

That came out great, we do tons of these jobs at the yard I work at. Would look even better with the mounting screws countersunk and plugged.

Agreed but I remove the treads in the off season the topcoat and work on the boat.

 

[HBSteve]

I noticed the latch on the main floor. Is that to lift the teak/holly ? (I assume you didn't glue it down?) Did you use any padding ? How much of a gap did you leave around the edges? I need to do the same project for our '05 Sailfish. Thank You.....

 

[1998sailfish]

I noticed the latch on the main floor. Is that to lift the teak/holly ? (I assume you didn't glue it down?) Did you use any padding ? How much of a gap did you leave around the edges? I need to do the same project for our '05 Sailfish. Thank You.....

Yes, the latch is to lift out the floor panel to access the hatch for the forward bilge as well as head valves. I use a very thin non slip rug pad. It prevents the floor panel from vibrating as well as protecting the Fiberglass from abrasion. I leave a 3/16" edge gap. The companionway treat covers are scribed fairly tight. I fasten everything with flathead stainless screws ( # 8 x 1.25") so that all panel can be removed for re coating as needed.