Going on my third season with my new to me 2011 Freedom 205. Next month I will be trailering it over to Orange Beach, Al where I rented a condo with a boat slip. Never kept this boat in the water for more than a day and never got enough water in the bilge for the bilge pump to come on. Have to admit this thing is pretty tight with the exception of the stupid design of the anchor locker which drains into the bilge, but I've always rinse that out on the trailer with the plug out. Anyway I know my bilge pump works because I periodically test it by flipping the switch but had no idea if my float switch works if I leave in the water unattended. So I decided to put the plug in and fill up the bilge and it worked perfectly. My previous 2 boats water would get in the bilge at times and the float switch would engage, especially the time I launched without the drain plug. So for that reason alone it is important to know if these things work.
Testing Bilge Float Switch
- Thread starter Capt Tom
- Start date
Some float switches can be manually lifted to test and the ones with a cover like mine in the 330 have a small axle stub sticking out that you can twist to test. easier than filling the bilge. The only weakness in that test is if the float doesn't really "float" which is highly unlikely if they haven't been under water for an extended period.
Yes I have the latter. I know I was always able to test my other ones by lifting the arm but this type is new to me.
SkunkBoat
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the ones with blue cover you can twist wires ccw to raise the float if you can't get a grip on the little nub.
Every season I stick a garden hose in the bilge and fill it with water (boat on trailer tilted up) and wait for it to operate off the float switch. Can you do this?
The Rule-a-matics are the more popular types. There are three mechanical types. The one that is obviously has a float arm than can be lifted up to activate. You don't seem to have one of those.
The Rule-a-matic Plus older box shaped model which has a knob on both sides that can be twisted to activate the switch
The newer Rule-a-matic box shaped model which has tab on the back end(the side that the wires are on). The tab is the test level and is used to activate the switch.
There are electronic float switches which are a tad more complicated to test. Although putting water into the bilge is a way to test, if the pump is bad and your boat is in the water, you will end up with a bilge full of water
Look for the test knob or lever tab first.
The Rule-a-matic Plus older box shaped model which has a knob on both sides that can be twisted to activate the switch
The newer Rule-a-matic box shaped model which has tab on the back end(the side that the wires are on). The tab is the test level and is used to activate the switch.
There are electronic float switches which are a tad more complicated to test. Although putting water into the bilge is a way to test, if the pump is bad and your boat is in the water, you will end up with a bilge full of water
Look for the test knob or lever tab first.
Yes that is what I did and it works fine. I was just pointing out in my initial quote that I have neglected to test it because it doesn't get enough water in the bilge to activate the switch, I have the new type without the lever so filling I was also able to see if the pump is working properly.
I have only done day trips so far and back on the trailer so I have never needed it. Biggest issue filling, I had to jack the trailer tongue an additional five inches to drain all the water out from up forward.
On my 208, there doesn't seem to be an angle attainable for all the water to drain aft during the winter. The only time I see that water drain is on the launch ramp. I can't raise the bow any higher on the trailer since the skeg hits the ground. I suppose I could block up the trailer to raise the whole thing higher but after experiencing the water for 14 years, I am not concerned about the winter layup.
Seasick- same issue on my 208 - it drives me crazy though. I came out of 17 whaler that did not have a bilge so this is all new to me. After cleaning the boat I try to find the steepest hill I can to drain out any water that may have collected.
The bilge in the 208 (rear bilge) is really dry. Water drains well on the deck and the inspection plates seal well. I suspect that the forward water gets in through the anchor locker hatch or it is water that drains off the anchor rode after use. Each is possible or even both. Where is actually pools is a mystery though and there is no easy way to take a look at the forward bilge area. As I said, it's been like this for almost forever,.
My 330 has a few places that water collects in the bilge when on the lift. I use a wet-dry vac to suck it almost dry from the low spots using a smaller hose attached to the larger vacuum hose. What's left dries pretty easily. I dump the vacuum tank into the sink and it makes it pretty easy.
ScottyCee
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Y'all need one of these. Can't beat it for quick cleanup, and like any other shop vac ya just remove the filter for water...
www.northerntool.com
Milwaukee M18 Cordless Wet/Dry Vacuum Tool Only, Model# 0880-20 | Northern Tool
The Milwaukee cordless wet/dry vacuum works with all Milwaukee M18 slide-on batteries to offer higher air power and suction to pr...
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You guys got me thinking, climbed back up in the boat and pulled the access cover up and still have some water standing up forward. This is after jacking the trailer where the trailer jack wheel was 5 inches off the ground from the max extended position. Shined a bright light and what do you know, I have mosquito larvae swimming around. I have noticed these tiny mosquitoes before and have actually looked down there and didn't notice any until I shined the light because they are so small. I was able to get a can of mosquito spray and spray the water and bilge and then closed the cover. Hope it works because these little boogers bite.