The "Big Trip" - 900+ miles in our Marlin

fischer

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Last year, my wife and I ran our 2005 Marlin from Marco Island to Big Pine and back, logging about 300 miles, including fishing. This year, we expanded on that a little - we left St Pete in our boat on Wednesday June 3, bound for Marco Island, Dry Tortugas, Key West and Cudjoe Key. This would be our first time in the Dry Tortugas. Weather was just a bit gnarly when we left but just south of Sarasota, it calmed down. We cruised off the beaches in fine weather, tooled around Sanibel a bit, stopped for lunch and then went on to Marco Island to visit some friends. Topped off the fuel at Marco, 136 gallons for my first 175 miles - averaging better than 1.2 mpg for that leg of the trip. Decent for a fully loaded boat.
Thursday morning we had beautiful seas almost all the way to the Dry Tortugas, cruising 32-33 mph. Seas picked up about 30 miles from Ft Jefferson but were still able to maintain 30 mph right into the harbor. We checked in with the rangers and did a short tour of the fort. It's an awesome thing, rich in history, and the view of the waters from the top of the fort is breathtaking. Our plan had been to go out and catch dinner the first night but the wind was blowing so hard, we scratched that idea and settled for a couple beers in the harbor. Can't for the life of me remember what we ate, but the sunset was unforgettable. Sometime after dark, we fired up the generator, switched on the A/C and watched a movie until we fell asleep.
Friday morning we went out and fished for about an hour, ostensibly to catch a couple fish for dinner. A couple of big fat red grouper, huge (tasty) mangrove and half dozen 16" yellowtail in the cooler and we called it more than enough. Did another tour, snorkeled around the fort, kayaked around a bit and settled in for the evening. It was yellowtail on the grill that night - no trouble remembering that meal. Slept in comfort again with genset and A/C running.
Saturday morning we had planned to do some more fishing but the wind was up again and would have been too rough to enjoy, so we headed for Key West. Seas calmed down east of Rebecca Shoal and we had a beautiful cruise past the Marquesas and other islands along the way to KW. We fueled up in Key West harbor, had a great lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants and then headed for our vacation rental on Cudjoe. We fished the reefs and blue water, scoring black fin tuna, a few dolphin and the usual reef species - snapper, grouper, yellowtail. We also snorkeled Looe Key and it definitely lived up to it's reputation. Our plan had been to stay until the following Saturday, but that storm coming up out of the Caribbean changed our minds for us. We decided to leave Thursday morning at first light and go straight home.
We left via Kemp Channel, made the gulf and immediately hit some rough seas. I decided to reroute a little closer to land rather than the straight shot back to St Pete, so we went northeast until we were south of Marco and then north to Marco for a break. I tried every possible tack but the seas were so confused, there was just no good approach. Most of that run we could only make about 20-22 mph comfortably, things getting a little better just south of Marco. Fuel and lunch and we were off toward Sanibel in decent seas and then a half mile off the beaches in a 2'-3' following sea that my boat really seemed to like. We made 32-33 mph most of the way from Marco to Venice, at which point the seas again got very confused, so we ducked into the Venice Inlet and ran the ICW to Tampa Bay. The no wake and minimum wake zones probably cost us a couple hours but it was a nice scenic ride. Coming into south Sarasota Bay we could run again and finished the trip at 33-34 mph. Pulled into the Marina, unloaded and cleaned the boat and were back home before dark. That was a 12 hour ride in some nice but mostly snotty conditions. All part of the adventure and I wouldn't change a minute of it.
We ran a total of 935 miles between traveling and fishing, burned 765 gallons of gas, for an average of 1.22 mpg. At times, in poor seas, the fuel burn was barely 1 mpg and other times, near 1.4. I've had my boat long enough now to know it pretty well and my estimated fuel burn numbers for the trip were right on the money. Happy to say the fuel flow numbers on my gauge vs actual top off numbers are almost exactly the same.
The Marlin handled every sea condition well, as you'd expect and was comfortable for a couple days and nights at Ft Jeff harbor. This was the first time we used the shower in the head. We always thought it would be a hassle, but wiping it down after only takes a minute and there's nothing like a hot shower before bed! We took an extra 28 gallons of water, so we'd have enough for the stay. There is no fresh water source at the "Dry" Tortugas. As for cold stuff, I keep a 150 qt Pelican cooler on deck in the cockpit, to keep drinks and fish iced down, the transom fish box going toward storage. We're already thinking about our next trip to DT and plan on spending a couple more days for exploring and to take advantage of the great fishing.
We love our Grady!

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mboyatt

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Great story and awesome pictures. Thank you for sharing! That is what I miss about south Florida, being able to do trips like this - I grew up in Miami, but left after Hurricane Andrew. Glad you had a safe trip.
 

Fishtales

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wish to do that some day... nice job.
 

fischer

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Thanks guys. Fishtales, I highly recommend it. Dry Tortugas had been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. I recall my dad's fishing buddies talking about it when I was in my late teens and now I'm 62 years old. I've stopped putting things off, like getting the "dream" boat and making the DT trip. Lucky for me, my wife grew up with boats too, so she's as into it as I am and we've had all kinds of fun on the Grady already. We're definitely going back, although maybe next time we'll put in at Marco, like last year. And maybe leave the boat in a slip for a couple months and do the run a few times.

We also got some great videos and when I get them on youtube, I'll include them here.
 

wspitler

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Planning a similar trip in our 330. Haven't been to Dry Tortugas in years. How were the rangers? I was out there with the USCG in the 70s and 80s, but I'm sure it's changed a lot. Thanks for the fantastic report and the pics!!
 

fischer

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I'd heard that the rangers out there tended to be kind of cold, but the ones we had contact with were as friendly and helpful as could be. They spent a lot of time with us and answered all of our questions. I give them high marks. You want to raise them on vhf 16 when you pull into the harbor and they'll tell you how to proceed. Good luck with your trip - we'll be returning, hopefully at least once more this year. When are you planning to go??
 

magicalbill

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Great shots! Thanks for putting all this together.
Question:
I have heard you can't anchor close in to the beach at Ft. Jeff except for off-loading for camping, etc. However, could you do so, say, at Loggerhead Key or any of the other surrounding islands? If not, we'll have to take a kayack or raft to paddle in for beachwalking.
Is it mostly sand or coral?
 

fischer

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You can't tie up to the dock at Loggerhead with your boat. You're supposed to anchor offshore and take your dinghy or kayak to the beach. Or maybe you could beach your boat - ask the rangers. You could also kayak to Loggerhead from Ft Jeff harbor as it's only 3 miles. Most of the other islands were off limits when we were there because of the birds nesting this time of year. The rangers will let you know, but Loggerhead was not off limits and it's probably the island you'd want to visit anyway. The others are basically just little sand piles - you'll see. At Ft Jeff, there's a mooring ball in the harbor (for official use only) and you're supposed to anchor on the other side of the ball (away from the fort). You can tie up to the dock for up to 2 hrs, which we did when we checked in, and also on day 2 to report our catch. We used that time to tour and snorkel. There are only 2 docks for public use, the rest delegated to official boats only. There is also a dinghy beach where you could land your kayak or inflatable or whatever. Pretty sure no time limit there. You're not supposed to beach your boat there, however we did see at least one boat back up to the dinghy beach after dark for the night. I understand it's a common practice. There are a lot of rules but they're pretty logical and easy to follow. One thing to really watch out for if you're fishing, is you can only possess one daily bag limit while inside the park boundaries and they do log in your catch. When you arrive, hit them on ch 16 and let them know you're there. After you dock or land on the dinghy beach, find the envelopes at the dock, pay your $5 per person, which is good for 5 or 7 days (can't remember). Go find the rangers office and they'll answer all your questions.

Fishing in the park is limited to the northwest corner but that covers plenty of productive area. Chances are you'll get all the fish you want on your first spot anyway. But...we saw huge bait schools for much of the ride across from Marco and a lot of them were being hammered by tuna. You could see them coming out of the water busting up the bait. Being our first trip, I just wanted to get to DT but next time I think I'd be inclined to drag a tuna lure around a couple of those schools and have sushi for dinner the first night or seared tuna. You could also stop when you get to the park, around Pulaski light for instance, and catch your dinner.

We had my wife's kayak with us and she enjoyed paddling around Ft Jefferson. Next trip though, we'll definitely take a 2 person kayak or maybe a small inflatable raft. There is plenty of coral to be seen, snorkeling around, mostly growing on sea walls or the old coal dock ruins and of course there are reefs everywhere. But the approach to the beaches is all sand, so an inflatable is safe.

Enjoy the trip! Wish I was on my way right now!
 

magicalbill

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Hey, thanks for taking the time to really explain it. Much appreciated!

Our goal is to snorkel, anchor, beachwalk. Sounds like a kayak is mandatory. Your report is great. it's like a vacation brochure and that water is amazing.

Our trip is in the future, but we're putting the pieces together gradually. Glad you guys had fun.
 

fischer

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You're welcome! Our trip was a long time in the making too, planning and doing logistics. We probably started sorting it out last June. Yes, I think a 2 person kayak would be the best solution to get to the beach and explore and you could fish the flats with it. We'll be taking a 2 person fishing kayak next time for sure. You can't swim to shore from your boat. There's no recreational swimming in the harbor and you wouldn't want to anyway with the occasional boats and sea planes coming and going. You can only enter the water from the swimming beaches. One other really great thing to know is after snorkeling, you can get a hot fresh water shower on the rear deck of the big cat (Yankee Freedom) that brings a tour group daily. I think it leaves the harbor a little after 3pm.
 

dale1

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Man, you are my hero. I wish i pull anything close to that off. Congrats. Dale
 

Legend

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Great recap and pics - did you keep your boat in a marina while in Key West. If so were slips readily available and reasonably priced?

Thanks for sharing
 

magicalbill

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Legend;
Jumping in here, fischer can add to/change/correct this;

The most popular and, almost the only, game in Key West is Galleons Marina. They are to stbd when you enter the main channel from Hawk Channel. there is a big turning basin in there and you parallel a long jetty that serves as a breakwater. They have floating docks in part of the complex and when I stayed there 5-6 years ago it was $100.00/nite for my 23 Gulfstream. First rate joint..short walk for a grouper sandwich and the staff was great.

I can't imagine they have gotten any cheaper though...

Thanks again to fischer for a really great account of a cool trip!
 

Legend

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Thanks Magic
Trip of a life time, We had our first trip to Key West this year and loved it. Just need to figure how to get the Sailfish from New England to Florida!
 

fischer

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We only stopped in Key West for fuel and lunch and we walked around a little. Key West Bight Marina was where we stopped. It was nice because there were plenty of water front restaurants right there. I think they're also accessible from Galleon's. The only reason we stopped at Bight was because it came up first in our on line search as we approached Key West. We sort of winged that one. Really didn't need a fuel stop but it seemed like a fun idea.