Throttle cables

[RussGW270]

Hey guys, my throttles are not in sync and while that is not a huge issue, I want to plan on replacing those with some quality throttle lines.

Rather than find new ones and just install them and then find out later I wanted something else, any suggestions on what you would swap them with? Not looking for a cheaper idea, would rather only do them both once, but want to swap both at the same time.

was told these are “middle of the road”

Thanks

Russ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046J3KQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_Wfu8FbSBT4J2S

 

[Hookup1]

I did throttle and shift cables for both engines this summer. A Yamaha dealer that I use for parts is my goto guy for technical advice. His prices are pretty good and I'm happy to give him the business.

There are two grades of cables. I went with the better ones. The difference is the way they are sleeved and lets the cable slide better. They were about $60 each. Two ere Yamaha brand and two were I believe Teleflex who makes them for Yamaha.

Its not a difficult project but with the binnacle out and batteries out its best to do them all at the same time.

 

[RussGW270]

Good advice. Will find out the lengths I need and get a couple good quality ones. Thanks!

Russ

 

[seasick]

Can't go wrong with Seastar Xtreme cables
That said, throttles out of sync aren't necessarily a sign of bad cables, Stiff or erratic operation is a better indication. If throttles don't line up for the same revs, the cables need to be adjusted at the motor usually

 

[RussGW270]

True, may just need adjustment, and will be looking at that, however if they “look fine” and one is more stiff, which it is, then it may be an indication of a possible future failure.

That being said, it may simply be a case of a loose cable, and I would not put it past being that easy. I am mostly researching before I look since my “luck” with parts of this boat has not been so stellar heh.

Thanks Sea.

Russ

 

[Hookup1]

I was having problems with one shift cable - really stiff. When I got it out the jacket had a small gouge in it and you could see the rust. This was on the engine end. In 23 years the cables were never replaced even when repowered in 2006. They were overdue.

I pulled my invoice for the new cables. They were $61/each. Teleflex CCX63322 for 22'. Port side was 24' starboard 22'. I emailed Grady White and they told me all 4 were 22' but it didn't make sense and turned out to be incorrect. Two of my cables may be Yamaha factory better grade made by Teleflex. You're looking for the Teleflex TRXtreme cables.

The way I did it was I threaded a plastic bushing I got from Lowes, screwed the cables together and pulled the new ones thru. Worked well but it does create a long stiff section where the cables join. You need to be careful to pull as straight as possible.

The old cables will be marked with the length on one end. Don't guess on length - find out what is in there now and get the right lengths. My parts supplier does lots or repowers. What he doesn't have in stock he can get the next day. Nice if you don't have to deal with shipping.

Jamestown Distributors

www.jamestowndistributors.com

 

[Fishtales]

Look into the adjustment first. I'd change only for ease of operation or if they perform differently. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[RussGW270]

Agreed on all counts. I plan to check first, as always, since they have gotten more loose, but also more stiff, over the past year.

@Hookup1 - excellent info, sir!

R

 

[Ky Grady]

Hookup nailed the explanation. Russ, as he said, your cables will have the length on one end or the other. My lengths are on the control box end. Buy the best quality available, you'll be way ahead in the long run.

 

[RussGW270]

Totally agree. Just got back from shopping for the family and am waiting on my son to get shoes on and then we will be looking at the cables. If they need replacing, will buy the best quality available.

Thanks guys, will take photos as I go.

Russ

 

[RussGW270]

Well, just not going to mess with the throttle cables for now. I'll pay someone to handle them later. For now, they work, but they are a tad off. I went to remove the throttle cover and the first screw just broke off. So, just not going to mess with the others as I do not want the boat out of commission right after I got it IN commission.. heh

I'll add it to the list of things I will be getting a mechanic to work on... later heh.

For now.. annoyingly off 2-3 rpm, but workable till I can formulate a real plan to have it all replaced.. as I doubt it is coming off even to adjust.

Going to see if there is anything I can do from the engine side to adjust the throttle rpms down a couple rpm. I could end up having to replace a lot more than the throttle cables if I break off another screw.

Would the lengths be posted all along the cable, perhaps in the rigging as well where I may be able to read it?

Okay... can adjust the throttle from the engine.. makes sense.. will leave the cables alone till the next trip to the lake.. besides, it is fun seeing the kayakers gawk at the "big boat" on the little lake heh

R

 

[Hookup1]

Cable lengths are only on one end. If they are on the binnacle end you should be able to see them when you pull it up (cables are long enough). Mine were on the other end so I had to used my coupler to pull a new cable from the engine into the bilge. When I found out I had the wrong length I pulled it back to the engine and ordered the right one. Then I did the starboard side.

I broke 2 of my 4 my cover screw off too. I looked at replacing all 4 cables in 2019. Talked to my guy and his people about it and they said it was no big deal. I tried to pay them to do the work but they didn't want it - they were doing re-powers for tens of thousands of dollars and didn't have time to do my little project. They were nice about it, answered all my questions and reassured me it wasn't that hard to do. I was completely intimidated but went ahead in 2020 and did it. I pulled two of the cables with a helper and the other two I did myself. Cables were pulled in an hour but I spent 4 hours thinks about it and prepping before pulling the trigger.

Getting the binnacle out is a PITA getting to the screws underneath but its isn't that bad either. There is enough space to pull the binnacle up and take it apart to get the cables out.

I considered installing a new binnacle but my guy talked me out of it. He said they are rarely a problem. I greased it up good and reused it.

As I said before, if you do all the work to do one cable you might as well do all 4. Good luck and let me know if I can be of any help.

 

[RussGW270]

I see the bolts underneath, just do not want to break it off right now so will see about tackling it once I have a better idea of when I will not be going to the coast for at least two weeks lol....I want to try to get out there at least once before I go and break it again heh, but that makes me feel better that it is normal.

Looks like once the cover comes off, the bolts holding the binnacle in place are accessible with a ratchet extension.

thanks again, @Hookup1

 

[Hookup1]

Once the binnacle cover is off cut all the tywraps under the helm. Make sure the binnacle wiring is loose and cables are free. Take the switch panel out and hang it. You can use a combination of socket and 12-point wrench. It's tight but doable. Good luck. After all my procrastinating it could have been done in a day!

 

[seasick]

When you open the control, take a lot of pictures so that you get things back where they came from. Some controls have multiple cable end mounting points and you will be hard pressed to remember which onw your cable was in

 

[Hookup1]

Also note how far the cable end pieces are threaded on - particularly in the binnacle - because you don't really want to make adjustments on this end. At the engine throttle adjustment is easy. Shift adjustment is done with a mark in the engine housing. Check service manual for details.

 

[Meanwhile]

Well, just not going to mess with the throttle cables for now. I'll pay someone to handle them later. For now, they work, but they are a tad off. I went to remove the throttle cover and the first screw just broke off.

R

Do those screws go into a blind threaded stud?

I broke off 2 screws on the instrument panel for my md's and can't figure out how to remove the blind threaded studs they used. They didn't use stainless studs.

 

[RussGW270]

Not sure, so much of this boat has never really been touched. My "over the next couple years" project is to get a whole new dash either made or make a fiberglass new one myself. I originally wanted a couple 9" chartplotters side by side, but someone on here had an amazing setup that let them use their ipad... so, heck of a lot cheaper that route so, may just opt for a new dash panel, we will see. Not many custom fiberglass people here, just the standard "we will fix.. we do not create" types heh... but we will see what I find on the coast. Not a priority atm, but fun to dream about.

Till then, not really going to mess with too too much and, when I do, I really would like to have the entire electrical system redone as it is a massive mess of add-on after add-on and corrosion. Works, so will leave it.. but, would really like to save up and maybe, next year, get the entire boat re-wired top to bottom. We will see.

Till then, will be glad to get her out on some fish. We are planning the weekend of the 16th out of Port Aransas. A friend on FB that lives in SA owns a .. I think a 1998 GW Marlin.. 28?.. he and his uncle and I are planning to see if we can burn off some of this fuel.

The funny part...besides working.. I think the most fun I had was lashing my rope to the boat... lol.. let me see if I have a pic. I was not a deck hand in the Navy, I worked the engineroom, but it stayed there and was out of the way vs on the deck.. and is like the only thing I had in the dang boat so far lol

Small things...don't laugh... not perfect.. but I hate things at my feet, so.... trying to find places to put crap

I keep pulling things out and re-packing it.. trying to find the right "fit"... need more room for tackle....never seem to have enough heh

R

 

[Hookup1]

I went to remove the throttle cover and the first screw just broke off.

That binnacle cover is held on by 4 screws that screw into the binnacle frame. I broke two of the four on mine out. Drilling out was a PITA so I didn't bother. Cover stays on with two and if need be I'll calk it. The two binnacles are mirrored and screwed together. All the smaller screws holding the units together came out easy. But there is always one that doesn't cooperate. The large bolt (1/4-20 but metric) was galled up and took a grinder to get it out.

For now.. annoyingly off 2-3 rpm, but workable.

I assume you are talking 2,000 to 3,000 RPM's. Thats a lot of adjustment! I agree with SEASICK that maybe the cable on the engine end popped out of its holder. I have a shift cable that did this occasionally. Unlikely it slipped at the binnacle end.

 

[dogdoc]

Had the control and cables replaced on my 92 280 marlin. At that time hydraulic steering lines were copper. Must have knicked a line during fishing the cables and susquently had hydraulic fluid accumulating in the bilge, which then neccesitated replacing the copper lines with new flexible hose. Somewhat difficult and very messy job.