Through Hull replacement

[192]

One of the things I did over the winter was replace one of my drain tube's. I bought the boat with the tube already broken... don't know how it happened. I bought the tool from Moeller http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/livewell_baitwell/flanging_tools/ and a few tubes just in case I made a mistake... and I did, cut the first one to short. To get the old one out you will need and hammer and punch/drift, just slowly bend it in on itself and it will eventually brake free from the sealant that's holding it in there. I left it open for two weeks in my garage to air out as an added protection before installing the new one.

This is the one that needed replacing... the outer flair was just gone... I ended up cutting and resoldering the wires for the transduser... it was just easier to do that then to fish it out.


cleaned out all the old 3M 5200... then re coated it with 5200


installed the brass tube and flaring tool


after flaring


clean up excess 5200 and there you have it...


Hope this helps anyone that might be doing this on there own.

 

[Willy-C]

Thanx for the visual 192.....I have 2 out of 4 that needs to be redone on my '92.....one in the motor splashwell and the other at one of the rear deck floor scuppers......they both did not have the flare on one side......so time to replace them

How much extra did you allow for the flare to form

~WC~

 

[192]

In the one photo you can see the amount it was sticking out of the transom with the flair too installed. I used a set of calipers to measure how wide the good flair was. I would think that you could be off a 16th or so either way and it would still work. I didn't take any photos of that part or remember the measurement...I will try and take another measurement.

 

[Willy-C]

found it here..... http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... g-tool.pdf

they're saying 1/4" longer.......Thanx

 

[mboyatt]

Beautiful job. Looks better than new. That sucker won't allow water intrusion now.

 

[Jeff_R]

192, Nice Job. When I did mine this winter I used O-Rings around the flare as that is the way I learned on Whalers. That said yours looks very clean...I think I will do them that way in the future.

A couple things I noted..

I found out the hard way that using 5200 can bite you in the butt later. Since it is more of an adhesive instead of a sealant, the 5200 is much more permanent than the 4200. When I tried to remove a tube I had done years ago with 5200 it was a real pain. I had use a hack saw blade down the tube, cut it into sections, and the chisel out the tube piece by piece. With the 4200, the old tube released much easier from the transom wood. Also, I found it interesting that you did not have the flare split on you without annealing the tube. It also split for me when it was not annealed.

Here is my process.

 

[192]

maybe the brass that I had was a bit more fresh, therefore softer with less impurity's.

 

[Jeff_R]

Could or you used a tube with a thinner wall thickness. The Moeller tubes and raw tube stock I get from McMaster Carr has noticeably thicker walls than the Sea Dog / Sea Choice tubes.

McMaster-Carr
1 inch O.D. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K792
1 1/4 inch O.D. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K832

 

[Willy-C]

Jeff, I'm thinking of making a tool for crimping mine.....could you possibly tell me the radius of the inside edge where it crimps? (maybe use a drill bit to verify dia)....and possibly the dia where it goes in the tube

I do machine work, and it would be an easy make with scrap cut-offs from the lathes

Did you think the brass tubing material was superior from McMaster-Carr? (.032") compared to the Moeller stuff?

Thanx in advance.. :mrgreen:

 

[192]

...just because I was curious... I think that the ones I got are Moeller tubes but I'm not 100 % sure, my buddy ordered them for me.
There are many different types of Brass with varying property's, I don't know what type I have but I would think it is best suited for use in a salt water environment. So if you order from McMaster Carr, make sure you know what your getting.


the listing on McMaster Carr states...

Multipurpose Brass Tubing

Temperature Range: -40° to 200° F
Not bendable <---- This would lead me to believe that this will crack if flared.
Connect by soldering

Brass tubing is a popular choice for a wide range of plumbing applications because it holds up well in mildly corrosive environments. Also known as Alloy 260, you can use this tubing with air, natural gas, propane, and gasoline. It meets ASTM B135. Tubing has seamless construction for a smooth interior and a 1/2 hard (H58) temper. OD tolerance is ±0.004". Tubing can be sterilized with steam (autoclaving).

 

[Jeff_R]

192, interesting that you are getting the .036 measurement. The last set of thru-hulls I did on my Grady was with Moeller tubing. I just bought their 14" length and cut the sections I needed from it. I still have some stock from that and will check it's thickness once I am back home.