Thru-hull Transducer

GW VOYAGER

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When I installed my garmin 4208 last year I also installed an inhull transducer P- somthing like that and although it works I lose detail when running on plane but I still get depth reading.
Anyhow I am thinking of buying a bronze thru-hull 50/200 with depth, speed,and temp. number GAX10183
On a 1996 Voyager is there a special place to mount and could I get feed back from someone who has this transducer?
 

nitrox32

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I've got a '97 Voyager it has "Transducer Flats" on the bottom on the hull.
I've got a through hull transducer mounted with a high speed fairing block, and I'm getting great returns while running the boat at speed.
 

GW VOYAGER

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Thanks x32
I'm in the stage of thinking about changing my in hull to tru hull for better bottom read. I've had a PM saying he is useing a transom mount and getting good results.
My biggest fear is drilling my hull but I know many have done this without problems.
Where is the fairing block you have and why would I need one or do you know the answer to this question? Another question is what is a fairing block?
 

journeyman

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GW, Check out this link to Airmar.

http://airmartechnology.com/

It shows some fairing blocks and the transducers used in them. No expert, but I think it helps reduce "noise" caused by water and air passing under the hull bottom. Some more Knowledgable people can chime in. I would check out the Flush mounted such as the B60. This is what's on my rig and I have no issues with losing the bottom at high speeds. It does not use a fairing block and that may have advantages I guess if you trailer.

Transducer and fairing block
b258_fairing.jpg


B60
B60_Tilted.jpg
 

cobrapowersys

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been there done that

I just installed a B744 Airmar ducer with a high speed fairing (not fairly :) block on my 268 islander with Raymarice C series electronics. A fairing is required for two reasons. your hull fairing flat is not perfectly level, so you need a fairing block to accurately see the proper reading on your sonar. Through hole xducers are the way to go hands down. Drilling your hull is definitly nerve racking, but be confident in your ability, BUY A NEW HOLE SAW OF THE PROPER SIZE, measure twice, get your 5200 ready, take your time, and just do it. It will be well worth your efforts. Also dont forget to install a top plate of 3/8" nylon or similar marine plastic. just a chunk say 3" x 3" with a matching hole for the ducer shaft, and 5200 it in place before you install the retaining nut on the ducer. The scariest part is cutting a hole in your hull. good luck
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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I have the in hull (through hull) Garmin ducer in my 228. it is the one which transmits and recieves through the hull but the ducer itself does not penetrate the hull. I have the GSD 22 digital sounder and the thing works well. I have a phobia about drilling holes in boat bottoms. call me crazy and or ignorant or both. :lol:
 

GW VOYAGER

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Thanks for the post Smoky and Seabob!
I'm leaning toward the B60 and yes I'm concerned about pulling the drill out but I would like a little better bottom while running.
 

cobrapowersys

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Sorry just another note your Part# GAX10183 is an Airmar. Garmin just private labels these, when you recieve it, it will be marked Airmar :)
 

Got Grady?

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Installed one of those on my buddys boat awhile back. It took plenty of measuring, checking angles and several trips to the bandsaw. Ended up that the inside of the hull where the old thru hull was had more than one angle due to the bilge pump area. Finally got all the angles cut and ground out a small section of fiberglass and it worked out great. It will now read bottom at WOT. Dont be afraid just take your time and forget measure twice cut once...measure, check angles 3 times then cut once.
 

journeyman

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Re: high speed fairing

cobrapowersys said:
I think the B60 may come with a high speed fairing block.

The B60 and transducers like it are meant to be flush mounted.
till.jpg

Description
The bronze B60-12º and B60-20º provide a vertical beam without a fairing. Inside the housing, the ceramic element is tilted to provide built-in deadrise compensation. The resulting vertical beam provides excellent echo returns for more accurate depth readings. The nearly flush housing minimizes drag with only 5 mm (3/16") extending outside of the hull.

You would need to choose the correct angle depending on mounting location and cable for your Garmin.
 

248voyager

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I am in the process of putting in a thru hull transducer in my 2002 248.
I started with the B-60 12 Degree, placement was difficult with the washdown and livewell pickups and the hull stringers. Grady said not to install in the flats provided because of water terbulance, so I have a B-117 0 Degree on the way and I will mount it on the center line. I called Grady again and they suggested inatalling it forward of the gas tank, but I have always heard the fearther back the better.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

journeyman

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Mine is located off the center line (thus the tilted element) just forward (6"or so )of the pick up for the salt water washdown in the rear bilge area. There was enough space between the seacock and the stringer behind the fuel tank to drill and fit the transducer. I don't think you would want to put it behind any saltwater scoops because of turbulance but in front should be OK. It is on my boat.

Full disclosre here. I did not install my transducer. It was done by a local shop that sells and installs marine electronics.
 

aa331

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248voyager,
Did you end up installing the b117? I'm looking at it for my 248.

Did you have to remove the rear floor panel to install it? I was also worried about the bottom not being perfectly flat right after the fuel tank.. ?

Any pics are appreciated.

Regards
 

GW VOYAGER

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aa331 I never changed mine. I resealed my in hull , refilled with antifreeze and now I get readings while underway. That said I would still think the thru hull would be much better and would love to have one. :wow It takes a lot of nerve to drill that hole through the bottom but I think it would be worth it. If you do it please let me know.
 

aa331

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GWvoyager,
I called Grady and they did not officially recommend a thru hull transducer for the 248, I guess there's no specific location on the hull designed for it. They did say if I went ahead with it to put it as close to the gas tank as possible, ahead of the seacock inlets, on the starboard side.

I will need to somehow measure what the angle is on that exact spot (variable deadrise) so I can buy the right transducer. Also, I need to make sure the hull is perfectly flat (inside and out) at that location (the bottom is not). It seems I will have to remove the rear floor panel to do this.

Check and measure ten times, drill a 2.375" hole on a perfectly good hull, once.

Lastly, after seeing first hand the shody work done by others, I'd rather do it myself.

Hopefully 248voyager or anyone else can reply with any pictures / tips.