Time for a new trailer

Lt.Mike

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I have an ‘87 Overnighter with a DT225. It’s still trailered on the Loadrite roller trailer it came with but I’m facing the fact the trailer needs major work. The rollers are binding (I have to knock them back in line after launching), the brakes don’t work and the fenders are so rotted out I’m surprised one didn’t blow off on the ride home today.
It seems to be increasingly more difficult to load straight and winch it up. Oh ya it can be a PITA.
I’m thinking a modern Loadrite trailer with maybe bunks this time with side guide posts.
Not sure if I should stay with galvanized or go with aluminum.
Should I stay with roller?
Anyone have any issue launching and retrieving an Overnighter on a bunk trailer?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
 

family affair

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If ramps are deep, you couldn't give me a roller trailer. I'd only own one if ramps are shallow.
I bought a Loadrite Elite aluminum bunk trailer with guides and target bunks in the spring of 2015. I paid the very knowledgeable trailer dealer $75 to set up the trailer to agreed specs. One of the best $75 I ever spent. Handles perfectly and is incredibly easy to load and unload. It should be no different for your boat.
As for what material, aluminum has been great for fresh water use. I can't comment about salt water. If buying new, the upcharge for stainless components is not that bad considering the headache you will save yourself later. Zinc parts on mine still look new after 5 seasons in fresh water.
 

Lt.Mike

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I’m primarily in the salt and fall striper season is approaching fast.
This roller trailer is the only roller I’ve ever had. All my others were bunk. I had a roller fall off while loading once and gouge the gelcoat. Never had a bunk trailer damage my boat.
I see videos where folks will tell you you have to totally submerge them but I used to leave 1/3 of my bunks above water with my bayliner which worked fine.
I can’t believe how rusted this thing I have now is. Chunks are falling off and I am religious about rinsing it EVERY TIME.
 

Ky Grady

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My vote goes for aluminum bunk trailer with upgraded stainless hardware and brakes on both axles. I bought a new Loadmaster for my Seafarer when I bought the boat in April of '17. Also went for double spare tires with spindles since I do trailer long distance when I travel. She was sitting on a Loadmaster bunk trailer then and I dealt directly with Loadmaster in Tampa and traded my old one in. It had seen its better days and I had a road trip back to Kentucky ahead of me, which I doubt the trailer would have survived. Best decision I could have made.
Living in Kentucky, I trailer everywhere I need to go. I pull with a F350 dually and having the extra brake axle is nice. I can tell a difference from my previous boats I had with single brake axle. I've always had bunk trailers and never an issue getting the boat on or off. I've put in at multiple ramps in Kentucky, South Carolina, Florida, Michigan and never a problem with a bunk trailer on any of the boats I've owned. If in salt, I've always rinsed trailer off with fresh water, still need to do that even on an aluminum trailer.
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Heyspike

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I’m primarily in the salt and fall striper season is approaching fast.
This roller trailer is the only roller I’ve ever had. All my others were bunk. I had a roller fall off while loading once and gouge the gelcoat. Never had a bunk trailer damage my boat.
I see videos where folks will tell you you have to totally submerge them but I used to leave 1/3 of my bunks above water with my bayliner which worked fine.
I can’t believe how rusted this thing I have now is. Chunks are falling off and I am religious about rinsing it EVERY TIME.
Lt Mike, I have bunks for mine. I replaced the wood and carpet this year (simple job), loads easy and floats off nice. Never have to worry about rolling off. One of my fenders is rusted bad, will replace both soon. Also did a brake controller this year, just have to bleed them a little better now. Got about $500 in fixing it up, the price of new ones are 3k plus.
This is my second boat and second bunk style trailer, no issues with launching. Submerge it good and it will load fine too.

BTW- where do you fish out of for Stripers? I'm in the Hudson River upstate in Newburgh, thinking of trailering it for the fall season of salt water. For me to run south to get to the bay would be about 2 hours.
 

DennisG01

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For the most part, a hull is a hull is a hull. Meaning, just because it's a Grady, that doesn't dictate roller or bunk. Go with what you know - the loading of it will be pretty much identical to you Bayliner. Yes, typically about 1/3 of the bunks sticking out - depending on how long the bunks are, of course. Easiest way to tell is make note of the water level at the fender when you back in. Back in till the stern of the boat just barely starts to rock back and forth - starting to float, but not quite, yet.

Bunk "slicks" are well worth it. Basically, plastic caps instead of carpet. Makes the bunks almost as slippery as having rollers.

Galv or alum... your call. Alum will save some weight for trailering.
 

Lt.Mike

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What does aluminum do to the price, another $1,000?
The frame on my trailer is otherwise solid but the axles, brakes, hubs, rollers, fenders, and hubs need to be replaced basically the trailer right? Already installed new lights, winch, and jack. I priced out the parts and if I did the work myself would cost me $1,500-1,700.
I think I priced a new galvanized dual axle bunk trailer at around $3,200. Though I can confidently do the work I just don’t want to anymore. The level of aggravation this trailer is giving me now, well it’s got to go. Yesterday it took all I had to winch that boat back up on the trailer and that’s with a two speed winch. Kept backing down with the trailer as it came up to have the water help load. It didn’t help having a couple with a diesel dually pulling a jet ski trailer waiting on the dock for me thinking it was funny.
You know when we first launched they blew in after us. The Grady was tied up at the end of the dock while I parked so someone could launch (that’s called good ramp etiquette) and tie to the ramp end till we left. As I parked our rig, I pointed that out and they said thanks. They launched and as I walked back to the boat they proceeded to squeeze the skis between the docks and my boat, I held my tongue (for the better most part).There was no one there when we returned but when I started to load those same clowns blew in again and put the pressure on like they had been jumped in line. I kind of expected those kind of ramp antics being a holiday weekend and it didn’t disappoint.
Anyway (rant done) one other thought is when loading by myself, back when the rollers actually rolled, on one steep ramp I use I’d have to leave the boat in forward gear to keep it from rolling back until I hooked it. If it were a bunk it would plant itself. With the Bayliner I’d hook a bow rope to launch backing down then at the last second hit the brake hard enough to make the boat slide off.
Of course that was a bowrider and about 2,000lbs. The Grady is almost double that.
Thinking of spending some time at the ramp to see how others get along with their rigs. Maybe I’ll see how other bigger boats launch on bunk trailers. In all these years I really haven’t been part of that ramp peanut gallery and just worry about myself getting in/out in proper time.

Spike, I go out of the Manasquan or Shark Rivers before dawn. I hunt down the bunker schools to snag bunker and live line. If the schools are scattered I troll Mojos. It’s a three hour window after dawn that most always produces after that you burn a lot of gas for little reward.
Incidentally there are a lot of big bunker schools out there right now, all over. It’s going to be a good fall run!
Dennis I was hoping you’d chime in :), I’m going to try for aluminum.
Mike
 
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DennisG01

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Ramp etiquette... Ugh. Some people need to go back to kindergarten!

I've launched everything from 13-footers to 35' footers on rollers and bunks (larger stuff, too, but have always had it lifted in/out at that point). The general idea is still the same as what you already know, Mike. Don't think too much about the weight difference between the Bayliner and your Grady - it really is just as simple. When we had our 28' Sea Ray Sundancer, my wife would take the boat on and off the trailer while I did the truck side. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. We would often be on the trailer and pulling out while others were still messing around. I did not do ANY cranking - other than a turn or two to tighten the strap. Granted, we were always on cement ramps so we could power load all the way up.

If you're going to be loading by yourself, I would definitely get the load guides. That way you can keep backing the rig in further and the stern of the boat won't float off left or right on you. I didn't have them on the Sundancer, but I do on the Grady - it helps quite a bit if it's windy or if there's a strong current, too.
 

Lt.Mike

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Good info thanks Dennis.
Going to the trailer dealer in a little bit to get the ball rolling on this.
Just went back to take a picture of the trailers weight tag so I have some comparison for the dealer.
I’m looking at it and a stubborn part of me says I can fix this. I’m trying to learn not to take those big projects on anymore and just enjoy life. It’s hard. Besides the tag had the manufacture date of the trailer at ‘86. Guess we owe each other nothing. ;)
 

DennisG01

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You should be able to recoup some of the money by selling it on Craigslist, at least. Knowing that makes it even easier to say goodbye to it. At 34 years old - you're right - can't complain about that.
 

Lt.Mike

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Spoke to two dealers today. Prices are the same though one dealer gave me the pitch for a roller trailer as first choice for everyday use and shallow water launch / retrieval. Noticed he echoed the Loadrite brochure on that.
Can’t say I ever cussed my bunk trailers as much as I have this roller trailer.
The 5,200 gvw 20-22’ aluminum I beam bunk dual axle single axle disc brakes was $3,150.00.
Not horrible. May add additional front bunks but definitely guide posts and LED lamps.
I guess I’ll get the old trailer back and cannibalize what I can for my use, Craig’s List what I can that I can’t use and scrap the rest.
Gotta say those aluminum I beam trailers look nice.
 
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UCPA111

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My vote goes for aluminum bunk trailer with upgraded stainless hardware and brakes on both axles. I bought a new Loadmaster for my Seafarer when I bought the boat in April of '17. Also went for double spare tires with spindles since I do trailer long distance when I travel. She was sitting on a Loadmaster bunk trailer then and I dealt directly with Loadmaster in Tampa and traded my old one in. It had seen its better days and I had a road trip back to Kentucky ahead of me, which I doubt the trailer would have survived. Best decision I could have made.
Living in Kentucky, I trailer everywhere I need to go. I pull with a F350 dually and having the extra brake axle is nice. I can tell a difference from my previous boats I had with single brake axle. I've always had bunk trailers and never an issue getting the boat on or off. I've put in at multiple ramps in Kentucky, South Carolina, Florida, Michigan and never a problem with a bunk trailer on any of the boats I've owned. If in salt, I've always rinsed trailer off with fresh water, still need to do that even on an aluminum trailer.
View attachment 8579

I vote Aluminum I beam with electric over hydraulic on both axles and SS hardware. I have over 3600 miles on my LoadMaster trailer.

Ky Grady - do you have 14" or 15" wheels? I have 14" on mine...but like the looks of yours with the aluminum rims. Maybe a future upgrade....
 

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Lt.Mike

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Ordinarily I’d vote electric brakes but I’m in Atlantic salt.
It’s murder on anything electric.
 

DennisG01

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You're in NJ, so it's not required, but I'd strongly suggest brakes on both axles - just in case they are quoting you on one axle, only.

FYI, EOH (Electric Over Hydraulic) doesn't have any exposed "electric" like a regular electric brake setup would. It still uses hydraulically actuated disc brakes at the wheels (just like your current setup and cars/trucks). But it eliminates the laggy, "surge" braking system at the coupler. Instead, the coupler is fixed and there is a hydraulic pump mounted on the trailer frame, typically within a few feet of the coupler. The "braking signal" comes electrically (virtually instantaneously) from your tow vehicle and the hydraulic pump sends the fluid to the wheels. It works seamlessly and much more rapidly than a typical surge system. You'll need the in-cab controller, but other benefits are that you can apply JUST the trailer brakes... and the trailer brakes will activate when backing DOWN the ramp - where surge brakes never would and on a slippery ramp, it can be a bit hairy sometimes when the rig is just sliding backwards! On the flip side, with a smaller/lighter boat, these benefits (while still a benefit) aren't "as big of a deal" compared to when you're pulling much heavvier loads. And, of course, there's the $750 to $1,000 premium for the EOH... along with the in-cab controller if you don't already have it.
 

Ky Grady

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I vote Aluminum I beam with electric over hydraulic on both axles and SS hardware. I have over 3600 miles on my LoadMaster trailer.

Ky Grady - do you have 14" or 15" wheels? I have 14" on mine...but like the looks of yours with the aluminum rims. Maybe a future upgrade....

They are 14", I had the same set in 15" on my car hauler. Had plain jane galvanized on the Loadmaster when I bought it. I like to look good on the road too. :cool:
20171228_142705.jpg
 

Lt.Mike

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You're in NJ, so it's not required, but I'd strongly suggest brakes on both axles - just in case they are quoting you on one axle, only.

FYI, EOH (Electric Over Hydraulic) doesn't have any exposed "electric" like a regular electric brake setup would. It still uses hydraulically actuated disc brakes at the wheels (just like your current setup and cars/trucks). But it eliminates the laggy, "surge" braking system at the coupler. Instead, the coupler is fixed and there is a hydraulic pump mounted on the trailer frame, typically within a few feet of the coupler. The "braking signal" comes electrically (virtually instantaneously) from your tow vehicle and the hydraulic pump sends the fluid to the wheels. It works seamlessly and much more rapidly than a typical surge system. You'll need the in-cab controller, but other benefits are that you can apply JUST the trailer brakes... and the trailer brakes will activate when backing DOWN the ramp - where surge brakes never would and on a slippery ramp, it can be a bit hairy sometimes when the rig is just sliding backwards! On the flip side, with a smaller/lighter boat, these benefits (while still a benefit) aren't "as big of a deal" compared to when you're pulling much heavvier loads. And, of course, there's the $750 to $1,000 premium for the EOH... along with the in-cab controller if you don't already have it.
Ok that makes sense then. Yes both my vehicles have brake controllers for our camper and occasional commercial trailer.
I do prefer electric brakes to surge brakes in the way they feel.
 

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I ended up buying a new 2019 trailer for my 2007 Tournament 205 and I went aluminum with bunks. Model is a Venture VATB5225 and ran around $3,400 for a reference. It has 4 wheel disc brakes and LED lights.
 

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Lt.Mike

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I ended up buying a new 2019 trailer for my 2007 Tournament 205 and I went aluminum with bunks. Model is a Venture VATB5225 and ran around $3,400 for a reference. It has 4 wheel disc brakes and LED lights.
The prices seem pretty even across the board. It looks good.
Do you trailer often with it and how’s it working for you with the bunks?
 

Fishtales

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I like the al bunk but if a deal on a roller, I'd take it.