Time for a new trailer

[Lt.Mike]

Mike, has NJ law changed recently about "all axles requiring brakes"? Maybe I've been misinformed all these years? But I've seen a lot of dual axle trailers with NJ plates and a very good percentage of them had brakes only on one axle... so it seemed to backup what I thought was the NJ law of only requiring it on one axle.

Loadrite and probably other manufacturers sell base trailers with GVW over 3,000lbs with brakes on single and for dual axle trailers only the front axle will come standard with brakes.
NJ law says over 3,000 lbs or trailers that weigh 40% or more than the vehicle pulling it must have brakes on each axle.
So if you buy a single axle trailer with brakes for a 4,000 lb boat your legal. If you have a dual axle trailer for that same boat and only one axle has brakes your not legal.
Two axles, two sets of brakes, three axles, three sets, NJ doesn’t put too much thought into it.
Trailers are not inspected in N.J. but the DOT and state police do have roadside inspection checkpoints they setup. I suppose they could flag you down, inspect and press the issue but they are many after commercial vehicles.
I have been running without brakes for five years and the Bayliner’s trailer never came with them. I have never or know of anyone in NJ that has ever been called out on trailer brakes for non-commercial use.
I will say that I bought a large pickup to tow the Bayliner because on wet roads it would push the car I towed it with into intersections with its wheels locked.
As my truck has been apart in my barn while I rebuild/restore it I’ve been using our 4wd Jeep Commander (6500 tow rating) to tow the Grady. The Jeep Commander is not a small vehicle.
We recently towed it to the ramp on a wet road and though I drive really easy when I tow when we came to a stoplight I felt it push the Jeep a little with the wheels locked. Not enough for anyone else in the vehicle to notice but I did for sure. That was in my head last night too.

 

[Ky Grady]

Smart move on the double brake axle. I pull with a F350 4×4 dually and like having both axles braking. Pulling with the smaller vehicle, you'll notice that second brake axle, especially on quick stops when the driving public cuts you off.

 

[Lt.Mike]

especially on quick stops when the driving public cuts you off.

Yes they will do that as sure as death and taxes.

 

[ROBERTH]

Just pulled the trigger on a new trailer. Old one needed new axles and I didn't want to do that work. Wondering what the market is for an older trailer that needs new axles for a 24 to 26' boat. It is a Road King and tows really well. I upgraded to full SS Kodiak's including the hubs a few years back and brakes are awesome. Has saved my pumpkin a few times!
On thing about the brakes when you add to both axles is a plus, but comparing my older Tie Down G5's that didn't last 2 years, these Kodiaks have way more stopping power. Keep that in mind if your towing a heavy boat.

 

[seasick]

The trailer may have little value depending on its age and the condition of the frame and the condition of the other components.
You say it needs axles but didn't say why. For example if the hubs are shot that's different than the case where the axles broke (fractured).
Is it torsion spring or leafs. Then again, your trailer may be of value to someone who needs a trailer primarily for off season storage, local launch and hauling as opposed to actual trailering. In that case they will overlook a lot of things like non working lights and brakes. We have a lot of trailers at our yard they have had the brakes removed to reduce wheel lockup due to low use.

 

[Lt.Mike]

The trailer may have little value depending on its age and the condition of the frame and the condition of the other components.
You say it needs axles but didn't say why. For example if the hubs are shot that's different than the case where the axles broke (fractured).
Is it torsion spring or leafs. Then again, your trailer may be of value to someone who needs a trailer primarily for off season storage, local launch and hauling as opposed to actual trailering. In that case they will overlook a lot of things like non working lights and brakes. We have a lot of trailers at our yard they have had the brakes removed to reduce wheel lockup due to low use.

That’s exactly what the market is and why they want one at the moment. I thought my trailer was worth nothing but I’ve had offers and I haven’t even advertised it yet. Seen really rough looking trailers on CL for $1,000 but that’s not saying they’ll get it. It’s good they’re asking that so when I ask less for my wreck it’ll look like a good deal.

 

[ROBERTH]

For my old trailer, using it now, I have upgraded all wiring to heavy gauge Marine Tinned with all LED lighting. All working. The Kodiak SS brakes with SS hubs and Oil bath alone if purchased new is about $1800 and have new pads put on this summer. I am sure the brakes are worth more than the trailer.
In regards to repairs, I was going to get some 1/2" thick Aluminum Plates to bolt on to bottom of I-Beams where axle flanges bolt on. Run them further fore and aft and drill/bolt in and then put on new axles. Reason? The existing axles are corroding really bad and the electrolysis in the I-Beam is eaten away somewhat. The idea is to remove the axles, grind away the corrosion, coat the aluminum with wash primer bolt on new axles with neoprene isolation and should be good to go for a long while.

For someone that is not going to be towing long distance, it would be a great trailer. But, if repairs done right, would be a very good trailer for someone.

Going to tow boat back down to coast later this week now that Hurricane Dorian is over with and get my trailer dealer to take a look and see if my ideas are worthy and what he thinks it might be worth.

Hoping to get something to recoup the price of these new trailers!

 

[Lt.Mike]

Had another thought, the new trailer is torsion sprung while all my previous trailers were leaf spring. I’m thinking I won’t notice much. Maybe their quieter (?) last longer. They have a cleaner look for sure.

 

[DennisG01]

They are definitely quieter - no question about that.

Do they last longer? 50/50.

Compared to standard-issue spring suspension, the torsion will balance the weight better between the two axles. Some spring suspensions use an equalizer in between the two springs to help.

 

[ROBERTH]

Torsion is way better in longer life than springs. My torsion axles have lasted 15 years and the actual torsion part is still working great. The only failure is where they did not isolate the galvanized axle flange from the aluminum I-Beam frame.

My previous spring trailer didn't last long, I think maybe 5 years before having to replace the springs if I recall.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Out with the old...


In with the new


It took him about 2 hours to set the trailer up for the Grady (at $128 per hr) but I am very happy with it. The drive home was a noticeable improvement over the old trailer. Its remarkable how quiet it rides! I also don’t feel like there’s a tug of war going on between the tow vehicle and the trailer. As for brakes it’s hard to say. You know you have trailer brakes with a camper because you can adjust how hard they apply. With this you don’t feel it slowing the tow vehicle like that but then again you don’t feel it pushing it either. The rig stops like it does without a trailer so I guess that’s it in a nut shell.
Loadrite Elite aluminum bunk trailer, two axles with brakes on both, radial tires with spare, guide poles, target bunks, LED lights, two speed winch, tower jack, stainless brakelines, setup for my boat, and with tax...$4,900.
There was a day that number would have given me a coronary but I’m tired of fighting with the trailer and when am I going to buy another, right?

 

[Ky Grady]

Congrats!!! Nice upgrade for sure. Makes towing more enjoyable than worrying about old trailer.

 

[Lt.Mike]

More enjoyable yes as you point out...with a lot less anxiety. There’s a lot of truth on that. I usually am worrying, listening, and watching for what might be going awry. What’s that noise?
What’s that flapping in the wind?
It’s a fender great. Won’t miss that.
Oh and being able to stop, ya that’s pretty good too.
Next step will be dunking and retrieval. I hope goes as well for the Grady as it did for the Bayliner.
Also the dealer made a side offer for the old trailer. If I can’t get more for it he’ll give me $500. He’ll probably get a call from me to come get it. Rather than hold off for the last buck I’ll just rip that bandaid and be done with it.

 

[Ky Grady]

More enjoyable not wondering what's going to fall off or break on the old trailer.

 

[CJ7Rob]

Your boat looks clean without any bottom paint. You should list your old trailer on cl and fb for a grand. It'll sell, especially this time of year when people are looking for trailers when they get out of their slips. I sold my old single axle trailer last fall for $800.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Your boat looks clean without any bottom paint. You should list your old trailer on cl and fb for a grand. It'll sell, especially this time of year when people are looking for trailers when they get out of their slips. I sold my old single axle trailer last fall for $800.

I may to see who bites. It actually has some good points. It has a newer Fulton tower jack, a new (last season) 2 speed winch, and fenders I haven’t installed.
The down side the rollers will need new washers and hog rings and the brakes are shot, no hope in resurrecting them. It’s probably good for winter storage.
Not safe for extended travel.
but the new one is!

 

[DennisG01]

I know the feeling - having a new trailer... or more specifically, I'm familiar with the notion of having an older trailer and always wondering "what that new sound is"!

Looks nice!

 

[JAdams1]

Nice looking trailer!

 

[Lt.Mike]

Nice looking trailer!

I hope to keep it that way. Never waxed a trailer but might start with this one. It really shines.
This one has a flat 5 pin wiring connector. The 5th is a blue wire connected to a solenoid to prevent the brakes from interfering with moving in reverse. That’s a new one for me. Now I have to run a wire from my backup lamps in my truck and replace the 4 pin with a 5 pin connector.

 

[DennisG01]

Mike, it take it your truck not have the round 7-pin connector? Just a flat-4?

Until you get the new flat-5 connected you could, if needed, turn the two connectors 90* to each other and insert the 5th pin (bluw wire) of the trailer connector to the brown wire connector of the truck side and then turn on your lights. You may or may not have to connect the grounds.

Or, and you've probably already figured this out, but just in case - use the little key or pin that's gets used to physically keep the coupler from compressing. Just remember to take it back out before you get back on the road!

Also, depending on your truck, you may be able to get a plug-n-play 5-pin harness that T's into a connector on the back side of your tail light. Last time I did that, I think the harness was something like $25.