Time for a new trailer

[Lt.Mike]

Mike, it take it your truck not have the round 7-pin connector? Just a flat-4?

Until you get the new flat-5 connected you could, if needed, turn the two connectors 90* to each other and insert the 5th pin (bluw wire) of the trailer connector to the brown wire connector of the truck side and then turn on your lights. You may or may not have to connect the grounds.

Or, and you've probably already figured this out, but just in case - use the little key or pin that's gets used to physically keep the coupler from compressing. Just remember to take it back out before you get back on the road!

Also, depending on your truck, you may be able to get a plug-n-play 5-pin harness that T's into a connector on the back side of your tail light. Last time I did that, I think the harness was something like $25.

My truck doesn’t and I’ve been planning to do it but haven’t as yet.
The Jeep does so before I left the dealer with the trailer I went back in a bought a 7 to 5 pin connector plug. Flipping the plug on a 4 pin is a simple enough trick too. Seems obvious now that you told me.
There’s also the option of moving the safety pin back one hole to disable the piston. The 4 pin I have hooked now in my truck was spliced in but I will agree and tell anyone else reading this that the plug and play T- fitting is the first best option. Any time you splice into wiring you risk a spot for corrosion to enter and cause big problems. Although being dirt cheap to splice it’s time consuming if you do it right. The T-fitting is ridiculously easy and at $25 is dirt cheap too. If I’d did it again that’s how it’d be done.

 

[ROBERTH]

New trailer looks great and I am sure you are happy with the peace of mind!

I was hoping to get mine this week, but they said nope, maybe next week! Bummer! Would have been the perfect weekend to swap it out since fishing is out due to the weather.

Interesting on the fitup you had to do with the new trailer. I am hoping not to have to make any or very little in adjustments. When I stopped by on the way down to the coast a couple of weeks ago, the dealer took lots of measurements and was talking to the factory on the phone and transferring the info so they could make sure the new trailer would fit the boat. Also, they noted that the bunk brackets needed to be heavier duty, so will get the 3/8" thick one's.

 

[Lt.Mike]

I watched some of what he did in setting up the trailer. Didn’t want to stand over him. He widened the bunks to set it just inside the chine and under the stringer.
It’s also positioned so that the bronze high speed pickup doesn’t rest on a bunk.
The bunks sit under the strongest part of the hull and being just inside of the chine it will self center. This trailer also has target bunks which he setup to cradle the bow. The target bunks catch the boat as it’s loaded but also ensure that the boat does not rock or seesaw on the trailer. There is a tie down ring directly under the boweye to further prevent rocking.
It took two weeks and a day to be delivered.
It had been on order for two weeks and hadn’t come in yet. A day later I was into a three day job that took all my time, wouldn’t you know that’s when I got the call. Murphy’s Law.
As for the old trailer it rolled out this evening. I have a wonderful empty spot in my backyard.
I had put it on Craigslist for a couple days but only got scammers, a dozen of them.
The dealer had offered me $500 for it so rather than drag this out trying to get a couple dollars more I called him back and said it’s his.
Made sure I removed and replaced all the lugnuts after I sprayed them with WD40. Also went to the DMV to get all paperwork for transfer of ownership.
I did what I could to save him a possible hassle as he was doing me a favor taking it off my hands.
If he makes some money off it good for him. One less headache for me.

 

[Fishtales]

sounds like a good buy

 

[Lt.Mike]

Figured I’d follow up on this post.
It took a few trips to get the new trailer figured out .
Launching it, I back down most of the ramp then unhook the winch hook and chain hook. Then with lines attached I roll back and as I see it float I tap the brakes and off she goes.
For retrieving, I adjusted the guide poles close to the sides and dunk the trailer leaving half the front guide bunks exposed. I gently motor up and load to the bow roller, hook the chain and gently roll up the ramp with the guide poles centering the boat on the trailer.
Nearly zero winching. The only thing I still don’t like is climbing over the bow rail onto the winch post and down.
With the roller trailer I couldn’t get close enough to the winch post as the boat wouldn’t stay centered on the trailer. My biggest fear though is having the bow rail let go as I climb down. Aside from that this is the easiest trailer I have ever launched and retrieved a boat with. (Not including my smaller boats)
The trailer with its torsion axle is silent behind me as I tow and the dual axle brakes are flawless.
This trailer cost me a bundle but was worth every penny!

 

[ROBERTH]

Good to hear the followup. I also got my Road King replacement, but they made it a bit heavier duty with heavier bunk brackets and 16" tires/wheels. It towed a bit better running near the 10K load range. Pulled it back from the coast this morning for 3 hours. Nice to have zero issues even though I did have a leaking Reverse actuator that I am going to replace this weekend. Simple fix, and dealer sent me a new one. Just have to install and bleed the brakes. Easy enough.
The bunks are so easy and loading is easy and takes us maybe 5 min. at the ramp with this setup.

 

[leeccoll]

As to climbing over bow rail, I am guessing you don't have an open bed truck?

Mine comes in handy for this, I step from dock over and into back of my pick up, then climb down on to the front of the trailer and strap and winch from there, then reverse those steps getting back off and I never have to get wet.

IF there were no dock, I would be in same situation as you, and I wouldn't be comfortable doing it either.

Glad the rest has worked out for ya!

 

[ROBERTH]

When I am by myself, I power up to the stop best I can, and leave the motors in gear so it doesn't slip back, then I just jump on the dock and go around and secure, then go back and power down.
Seems scary to do this, but have never had an issue.
I used to reach over on my 20' bowrider, but no way to reach down to anything over the bow on this model.

 

[leeccoll]

Yeah Robert, I forgot to mention I leave it in gear too. Then like you power down after secure and trim up the engine before I leave the boat to drive up the boat ramp.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Can’t really reach a pickups tailgate from the bow of the boat and it’s kinda high too. It’s a bit of a circus act which I don’t like.
leaving half the front target bunks dry it can easily climb up without crazy power loading and have enough grip to hold it from slipping back. So once it’s there I kill it and trim up a little.
I’ve seen plenty of others pull the boat at this point but I’m not that brave, I hook the safety chain first. Even still the chain still has a little slack in it when it’s out showing the boat doesn’t move.
I don’t like trusting that bow rail to hold me as I climb down. If it let go id brake my neck.
You can just see the hitch in this pic. Jumping from the bow to the tow vehicle... nope.

 

[leeccoll]

I meant getting onto you truck from the dock, is that possible?

Once I am ready to launch or load, I am only 12-18" from stepping on my side rails on the bed of the truck. Maybe it's not possible for you, I have the Ram toolboxes built in to the sides so there is a 12" step in of a standard one.

I get your point about that trusting your rail .

 

[Parthery]

I step from the bow to the spare tire, then down onto the frame. Just be careful if your spare has a spindle, because it spins.

 

[DennisG01]

Mike, just a quick suggestion... the bow roller bracket is angled up quite high. The boat has the opportunity to put a lot of "leverage" type stress onto the bracket and bend it. But if you slide the winch mount upwards, you should be able to get that roller bracket straight/level (or close to it).

Back to fun stuff... Have you thought about building a ladder and affixing it to the top of the winch stand post and the trailer frame? You could easily have a small platform that's level with the bow of the boat, and then steps going down the side of the trailer. Add a handrail that extends about 3' above the platform and on/off the boat gets a whole lot easier! You could do it as simple as you want - 2x's would be easy and give you "proof of concept" and then decide if you want to use steel or aluminum.

 

[DennisG01]

Just be careful if your spare has a spindle, because it spins.

Aside the person getting hurt, that would be awful funny to watch!

 

[Lt.Mike]

It’s tough to see in that photo but at the base of the stand is a tie down eyelet. As was suggested to me I hook a stout ratchet strap from the bow eye to the stand eye to eliminate any rocking horse action which might flex the aluminum trailer beams. After I winch it in then down it doesn’t move. I wrap a heavy commercial 4” ratchet strap under the trailer just forward of the guide poles and over the boat.
I’m looking into a rope ladder to tie off to the front cleat. We’ll see how that works. The tire is tucked
In under the boat so no go for that.

 

[DennisG01]

Rope ladders are a royal pain in the butt. As soon as you put your foot on them they swing away from you putting a whole lot more weight onto your upper body. Plus they can twist underneath you. And, you'll still be relying heavily on grabbing the rail (lot's of stress on the rail) - probably more than your current way.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Rope ladders are a royal pain in the butt. As soon as you put your foot on them they swing away from you putting a whole lot more weight onto your upper body. Plus they can twist underneath you. And, you'll still be relying heavily on grabbing the rail (lot's of stress on the rail) - probably more than your current way.

Ok when I get my pickup back on the road maybe I’ll just throw a small ladder in the bed.

 

[DennisG01]

Ok when I get my pickup back on the road maybe I’ll just throw a small ladder in the bed.

Had a little chuckle with that as I imagined... Pull the boat onto the trailer, climb down the boat the regular way to get the ladder, setup the ladder and get back into the boat... then use the ladder to get out of the boat

This is obviously a very basic drawing... VERY basic. But this would be pretty simple to build - just in case my description above wasn't very good... although maybe this picture makes it harder to understand!

 

[Lt.Mike]

Had a little chuckle with that as I imagined... Pull the boat onto the trailer, climb down the boat the regular way to get the ladder, setup the ladder and get back into the boat... then use the ladder to get out of the boat

This is obviously a very basic drawing... VERY basic. But this would be pretty simple to build - just in case my description above wasn't very good... although maybe this picture makes it harder to understand!

Actually I’ve seen a guy setup a step ladder next to the trailer after parking it in place on the ramp then loading the boat.
Also thought of carrying a small 6’ ladder onto after I dunk the team and then put it over the side once it’s loaded. Your idea is one I’ve been toying with too.
I don’t think I’ll need the platform maybe just a secure post/handhold I can trust to hold my weight. Falling backwards onto a concrete ramp that’s slick with algae would be it for me. Not the way I want to go.
I’ll say one thing if I do fabricate something it’ll look like a factory piece when I’m done