Tinning Corroded Wire

[Hookup1]

Replacing connectors on my fuel tank sending unit. Factory wiring not tinned copper - raw copper. Keep stripping back and all I get is black wire. Common problem on the GW's. I was able to use a Dremel wire wheel and a block of wood to clean the wire. Strip wire back and use wheel to work away from insulation to clean the wire off. Not a very good photo but the red wire was clean copper (after) and the green wire was black (before). Was able to barrel twist wire, rosin flux and solder.

Connections adhesive shrink tubing and secured. To each his own on soldered connections. I know mine are electrically perfect! If you want to use crimps just clean and tin a small part, strip back again and crimp.

EDIT: 9/3/23 Replaced photo.

 

[DennisG01]

Good idea with the wire wheel. I usually just splay the wires out and scrape them lightly with a razor blade... then re-splay and do again. I might try that wire wheel next time!

If you have the soldered joint secured on both sides of the joint, then you're fine - when it's allowed to move is when you can get problems with the joint breaking down the road.

 

[Automated14]

I have been using non insulated crimps for years. you can get a really good crimp on those without the BS bargain basement plastic insulator on them. I follow up with heat shrink.

I also use delphi weatherpack connectors every chance I get. gasketed where the wires enter each side and where you actually connect the connector together to make bang bang.

I hate it when spreader lights, AC water pump, and any number of other things get butt spliced or hard wired as if we live in fantasy land where nothing will ever corrode or break. Install it with plugs and if it takes a shit, its' so much easier to troubleshoot if you can unplug it.