Tips for Using Twins

Jonah

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Hi all,

Was just reading another thread about whether to install a bow thruster in a Marlin, and many replies mentioned the value of knowing how to pivot the boat using twin engines. I think I get the general idea: forward on one, reverse on the other. But is there anything more sophisticated that I'm missing, and that I should keep in mind as I practice maneuvering in tight spaces with twin engines? I assume you want the outboards aligned with the line of the hull when doing this.
 

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Generally speaking...keep wheel centered and use the motors, bumping in & out . This really work well with INBOARDS.
Works pretty good with outboards in no current or wind. Keeping the wheel centered means you only have to think about gears.
Once the wheel is turned, all bets are off.

I have found that docking in a current, I often need to use the wheel hard over and both motors in the same gear.

If you practice anything, find a safe place to get used to turning around in, backing into, and slowly inching forward with a strong current
 

journeyman

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This guy gives a pretty good tutorial on how to use shift and throttles. Not outboards but still same general Idea. Skip the first ten minutes or so, but give it a watch. It may help... I have three years with twins now, starting my fourth and am no expert. Still learning. I have days that still make me pucker up!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGEXK-ac98o
 

magicalbill

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Jonah:

1.) Real world practice, learning the particular way your boat reacts to the twin maneuvering is the only way that I have found that gets you there. Getting to the point where the process is intuitive is key so you don't have to think about executing split-second corrections when the wind is blowing you toward(or away) from your dock. You just do it, rather than think,"Yikes, which one does what?

2.) To help with the above thought process, I advised Graybeard to find a place where no one's around to "advise" you. That could be your own slip or a deserted dock where no one frequents. Or.. maybe get two gallon jugs, some line & weights and anchor them in the bay on a reasonably calm day. Space them so they're approximately the same distance apart as your striker poles at your slip. Then practice sterning in between them 100 times.

3.) Find a pro boat handler in your area that can show you concepts as he maneuvers your boat. Then have him instruct you from the passenger seat while you attempt it. Usually they can be found in your marina. You know, the guy who has to jockey all size boats in-and-out of slips all day long. If he's a communicator and a nice guy, he'll be able to get you towards your goal (no dings in gelcoat) a lot faster. Give him $50 or $100 bucks. He'll stay with you as long as it takes.

4.) Trim your engines up some so the prop surge is not bouncing off your transom and disturbing your thrust action. I have found that lowering them all the way down doesn't give you quite the precise reaction as you shift in-and-out of gear.

5.) Only when you begin to become proficient, try this: A veteran SeaTow Captain shared this with me. "In a wind or current, rev those Yamahas up while your maneuvering in. The higher RPM's & increased thrust will help counteract the wind & current while you leave your engines centered and not start turning the wheel in close quarters. Even if you have to rev 'em to 3 grand, they'll go in there." While they are opposed, the boat will not go flying toward the dock in reverse. It's the same scenario as when your executing the maneuver at low RPM's, it's just that the increased torque from the rev's will fight the wind/current better.
I've tried this..it's a little nerve wracking, but it does help. Again, get some time under your belt before trying this and when the boat gets close to your finger pier, get to neutral with both engines fast.

6.) I do this every time:

As you begin to spin the boat in front of your slip, rev up the engine you have in REVERSE to help spin the boat faster and more predictably. Ex: If the wind is pushing you past your slip entrance, rev the reverse engine up and the pivot will be completed sooner, centering you up with your target. Control the spin with the amount of revs. You'll fine tune the process pretty quickly.

This was longer than I wanted it to be, but I believe these concepts, practiced diligently will help. I'm still learning, but I have an idea about it nowadays.

Remember, 10 aborted attempts is better than one gelcoat ding. There is no shame in backing off and trying again.
 

magicalbill

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One more thing: (I sound like Columbo)

There will always be days where it doesn't go well, even though you've been doing it for years. I am no expert by any means. Like Journeyman, I have days when I get white knuckled and have to do it over and over again. I get jealous of the Captains that make it look so easy, but don't give up. With practice, your success ratio will get higher as will your satisfaction level.

And finally, the Golden Rule:

Your most successful landings will be when no one's watching.

Your most embarrassing moments will be when a crowd is standing there.

It just works that way....
 

journeyman

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Bill, I don't want to derail this thread but we need you to start a new one with an update and some pics of your new ride!
 

magicalbill

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Funny you should mention that:

I was just thinking about that the other day. Problem is, I'm not computer-savvy and I've heard it can be problematic to post photos here.

I have the boat & the pics..I'll see what I can do.

Anyway, good luck Jonah; it only gets easier as you practice.
 

Fishtales

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The best thing to learn is how to spin the boat on its axis. You can do this in open water and practice at different speeds (one in fwd and one in reverse). Once you get this down you can move to different rpms, this will get the boat moving laterally a bit while turning. If in tough conditions you also as mentioned use both engines in the same direction to pull it snug. Before I had a thruster in wind or current conditions I would over rotate on the bow and the quickly turn both engines toward the dock and snug the aft in. It's to the point now that I don't even think, it is natural. Every now and then I may miss or get in a little trouble, but going slow and confidence will go a long way.
 

Jonah

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Thanks everyone, this is very helpful. I would not have thought to trim the engines, or to try playing with the RPMs, so that’s good to know. I have an open area in my canal that is large enough for good practice, so will try soon.

Thanks again.
 

SkunkBoat

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I dock in a crazy strong current that flows into/out of the slip.
There is not much space between piers and several anchor pulpits sticking out to terrify the best captains.

it hasn't been said yet but I think backing in is easier (once you learn to twist the boat) and safer in a strong current or wind.

You have more immediate response in direction. think of it like front wheel drive, pulling the boat. the boat will follow.

When you are moving fwd, you have to follow the bow with the motors. In a following current, that can be scary. You have no steering unless you are moving faster than the current.
The current will always try to turn the boat around because the motors are the deepest part of your boat.

On boats with a high bow, you can see what you are doing.
You get quicker access to dock lines .
 

glacierbaze

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The wider the motors are spaced, the easier the spin move, ie, a catamaran will spin much easier than a high performance boat with 2 motors close together. When the spin is almost complete, switch your throttle positions long enough to stop the momentum, instead of trying to guess where it will stop. If your shifters are positioned so that you can reach them behind you, face the stern instead of looking over your shoulder when backing.
A prop exerts thrust forward and in reverse, but it also acts as a wheel, which wants to go sideways in the water. In reverse, a standard rotation prop will walk your stern to port, and a counter rotation engine will walk your stern to starboard. Sometimes, one engine will solve your problem easier than both.
 

Sharkbait282

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I think the thing I'd add is that it's almost just as important to fully understand what your boat is naturally going to want to do in a given set of current/wind conditions, in the absence of throttle inputs.

Does your boat want to drift beam to wind, bow to wind, or stern to wind? How quickly or strongly does the boat want to adopt that position?

Knowing what's been mentioned (how to induce spin, stop, orient the boat with throttles), combined with knowing what your boat WANTS to do given your environmental inputs, I think is the critical combination.

Definitely practice the "increase rpms" options away from hard objects a while before putting into practice around docks, other boats. I'll definitely agree that it's effective, but you need to have a cool head about it . . . RPMs directly proportionate to the insurance claim amount.
 

Finest Kind

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Easy way to remember which way your boat is going to spin....just look at the tops of the throttle handles.
They all have handle-tops that point towards each other...when both throttles are in neutral they almost meet, right?
Notice that the top of the Stbd handle is pointing left, and the top of the Port handle is pointing right?

OK, so now when you put the stbd motor in forward, and the port motor in reverse, the boat will spin in the direction that the handles are pointing which is counter-clockwise.

If you want the boat to spin clockwise, put the Port in forward and the Stbd in reverse...and when you look at the throttle handles you will see the handles will be pointing clockwise,

Just follow the direction the handle tops are pointing...Easy-peasy. :)
 

ocnslr

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No bad comments above. I'll add just a bit to make the learning easier.

- make sure trimmed up a few bars, as this helps the astern engine.
- assuming engines idle at same RPM, the engine going ahead will be more effective than the astern engine.
- so, put stud engine ahead at idle and port engine astern.
- don't touch the wheel, just leave engines centered.
- put one hand on the port throttle and gently use RPM changes to control the position of the boat. Since the ahead engine is more efficient (due to the prop, primarily), you will need to increase port engine RPM as needed to keep from moving forward as you are rotating. If you need to move astern a bit, just increase port engine RPM a bit.
- when you are almost lined up on the desired heading, shift one engine to neutral, then shift it to match the other engine. You should stabilize about where you want to be.
To elaborate on the item above, if you want to go ahead after rotating, shift the port engine briefly to neutral, then to forward to match stbd engine. If you need to move astern after rotating, shift stbd engine briefly to neutral, then to astern.

I have taught/trained dozens of people using this method. On our boat I move from behind the helm, use my left hand on the port throttle, and can easily look forward and aft. Once you are comfortable with this counter-clockwise rotation, you can easily work the other way to rotate clockwise.

Note that excessive throttle should never be needed, and only one engine needs to be used for controlling the rotation and position.

Go out into an open area, stop the boat, and give it a try.

Will there ever be situations where idle RPM is not sufficient? Possibly, but if so you should still use all the same procedures, at just a higher base RPM for the ahead engine. The day will come when you are comfortable using two hands on the throttles, at elevated RPMs, to do thing faster or in harsher conditions, but I still recommend learning it as I've suggested above.

Our boat lift is at the end of a canal, and we go bow in. Every time we leave I back out and rotate 180 degrees, in a narrow canal. You will be able to do this on a spit, i.e., within your own boat length.

Brian
Master, Oceans, Steam, Motor or Sail, 1600-Tons
Chief Mate, Oceans, Unlimited
Commander, USN (Ret)
USN Senior Offshore Sailing Skipper
 

Ozz043

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OCNSIR HAS NAILED IT

I concur

Just for fun wack both engines in reverse at idle, steering central.....see what happens
If she does walk to stb like mine kick stb in fwd for a sec and see how she straightens up but slows...
Do the same and kick stb into neutral instead.....same result but easier...

Play around nothing beats practice and even then you’ll stuff it up now and then...