Top Grady Maintenance Items?

[GeeDub]

Guys I've spent some time reading through the forum and based on shared experiences, it seems the top list of things to do first on my 204 Fisherman are:

- make sure transom is dry and sealed well (should be good here, boat has a new transom)
- replace the plastic through hulls with stainless steel
- check and secure all other hoses/clamps, replace as needed
- checkout fuel tank condition and plan for possible replacement
- refurbish the teak (starbright system looks like it works well)

Anything else I've missed or that you would do first? And is there a best known method for determining when to replace the fuel tank? I realize that there are a lot more things that will need to be done in time, but I'm a rookie here and trying to prioritize the most important items first. Appreciate all the great advice here!

 

[toolguy73]

On the thru hulls, stainless steel everywhere is ok unless you're going into a slip. Then you should have bronze units at or below the watereline. Bonded, too.

Don't know about the fuel tanks.

 

[GeeDub]

On the thru hulls, stainless steel everywhere is ok unless you're going into a slip. Then you should have bronze units at or below the watereline. Bonded, too.

Thanks for the tip - boat will be trailered so SS should be OK. Who knows, maybe I'll opt for chrome over bronze if I can get a decent price? I've seen a few different suppliers mentioned in other threads, wasn't sure how to evaluate quality other than to look for 316 grade stainless (if using SS). Grady actually recommends using plastic to better match the hull. The job looks to be loads of fun judging by the comments made in several other threads! :shock:

 

[toolguy73]

I wouldn't use chrome over anything. They tend to delaminate.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Grady actually recommends using plastic to better match the hull.

Did they tell you that? :huh

 

[GeeDub]

Grady actually recommends using plastic to better match the hull.

Did they tell you that?

Not me, but another GW owner. According to him, they said that most of today's engineered plastics will last 20+ years, and on a mid 80s GW would better match the originals. I doubt that is their official company position, more likely the opinion of the GW rep he talked to. It does make some sense though, as today's plastics are far superior to those made nearly 30 years ago. Still not sure if I want to put it back on my boat!

 

[Parthery]

I'd stay away from plastic.....it's not so much the "wear out" factor as it is the "hit a piling or something in the water and they split"....

SS or chrome over bronze will serve you well.

 

[Fishtales]

Just some ideas....
I'd use SS thru hulls above the water line and bronze below.
Good to check hose conditions and clamps and where possible install dual clamps. Make sure marine not automotive.
Check deckplate seals if they are the beckson you may be able to replace just the seals. It might be good to replace any loose fitting and those deckplates that could result in a flood condition (outside on eurotransom etc) if breached with the screw in type.
Check all through hull valves and make sure they open and close properly.
Verify cockpit scuppers work as they should and no cracks that allow water to go into the bilge. If they have rubber flappers, verify they are still functional as a check valve (water can go out, but not come in).
When you fill the boat with fuel and gear, see where the thru holes - especially scuppers are in relation to the waterline. Best if they are above it...
Recaulk areas as needed. Replace defective or rusting screws with marine grade SS ones.
Verify all lighting works as it should. Maybe replace filament bulbs with LED bulbs where possible or where you plan heavy use.
Install a high water alarm if you don't have one. Ensure you have some thruhole wooden plugs or hole patch (comes in plastic tubs) should you get a leak.

 

[ROBERTH]

I replaced all 13 of my thru hulls with SS. Got all of them from Grady except for one that they didn't make in that size, so found it from Attwood. I have a post here somewhere on it. I had 3 plastic ones that were already cracked and leaking! I don't see plastic on the new Grady's either. Not worth it. I think the SS looks great!
I pulled the tanks, cleaned them and coated per instructions from Dale Pascoe (Marine Surveyor) with Coal Tar Epoxy and bonded the PVC strips to the bottom as he instructs. Tanks should now last forever. They has some pitting, but not bad enough to warrant replacement of the tanks. Do this now and never look back and worry on the tanks eating through.

Check wire gauge to VHF and any other key electronics. I upsized mine and improved performance due to less amp draw down with the larger wire. VHF transmits much better now.

Spray all electrical connections to prevent corrosion and protect from moisture.