Tournament 19 fuel tank

[Charliedog]

I am replacing the fuel tank on a 1989 tournament 19 and my question is this. How was the original tank held in place? The tank I removed was not correct for the boat so I have nothing to go by as far as what should be in the tank area. The new tank was built from Grady White’s original spec sheet, one inch shorter so it will fit through the deck. I bonded 1/4” thick 2” wide strips of fiberglass reinforced plastic to the tank to space it from the hull. Will adhesive/sealant applied to the strips when dropping it in place hold the tank from moving? I would really like to know what was under the tank cover in 1989. The Grady drawing has no tabs or brackets on the tank

 

[DennisG01]

Don't glue it down. Just shim it around the top edge - to keep it from sliding around. It doesn't take much. You could again glue glass strips to where you are going to have the shims. A few FRP, PVC plastic or aluminum L-channel (say 2" by 2") can be secured to the bulkhead and stringers and placed loosely against the top of the tank (again, use glass strips glued onto the tank, first) to keep it from bouncing if you wanted to.

The newer versions of your boat use a plastic tank, which makes things easier, but I guess that's sort of a moot point!

 

[Charliedog]

Don't glue it down. Just shim it around the top edge - to keep it from sliding around. It doesn't take much. You could again glue glass strips to where you are going to have the shims. A few FRP, PVC plastic or aluminum L-channel (say 2" by 2") can be secured to the bulkhead and stringers and placed loosely against the top of the tank (again, use glass strips glued onto the tank, first) to keep it from bouncing if you wanted to.

The newer versions of your boat use a plastic tank, which makes things easier, but I guess that's sort of a moot point!

 

[Charliedog]

Thanks so much. I was over thinking it! I have plenty of FRP so I will make up some shims.

 

[33Nicolas]

Just a newbie question but can we install the new plastic fuel cells in an older 1986 Tournament?

I would assume so.

 

[DennisG01]

Just a newbie question but can we install the new plastic fuel cells in an older 1986 Tournament?

I would assume so.

Absolutely.

 

[33Nicolas]

Thanks, that too is on the list of things to keep an eye on. And that floor panel is sinking, which I can only imagine means a new one at some point.

Thanks!

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks, that too is on the list of things to keep an eye on. And that floor panel is sinking, which I can only imagine means a new one at some point.

Thanks!

If you have halfway decent carpentry skills you can rebuild the floor panel - remove the glass skin and wood from the underside, rebuild. Look around (search) on this site for a number of posts about this - and also just google - plenty of info out there about rebuilding a hatch.

 

[33Nicolas]

Ah, unfortunately, I'm a journalist, so better with typing than cutting wood, but I'm willing to learn.

I love doing things like that.

 

[TFab]

I am replacing the fuel tank on a 1989 tournament 19 and my question is this. How was the original tank held in place? The tank I removed was not correct for the boat so I have nothing to go by as far as what should be in the tank area. The new tank was built from Grady White’s original spec sheet, one inch shorter so it will fit through the deck. I bonded 1/4” thick 2” wide strips of fiberglass reinforced plastic to the tank to space it from the hull. Will adhesive/sealant applied to the strips when dropping it in place hold the tank from moving? I would really like to know what was under the tank cover in 1989. The Grady drawing has no tabs or brackets on the tank

The original tanks had a strip of rubber between the hull and tanks then a wedge block placed firmly between the hull and tank stainless screws attached right into the hull . When I seen it the first time I was really surprised how solid the placement was

If you have halfway decent carpentry skills you can rebuild the floor panel - remove the glass skin and wood from the underside, rebuild. Look around (search) on this site for a number of posts about this - and also just google - plenty of info out there about rebuilding a hatch.

When I removed my hatched most of the screw holes were stripped thru the fiberglass I found that if you cut up chop mat in small bits into the Fiberglas Resin compress it into the holes it worked very well. but remove any and all paint or gel coat before you apply it the rosin needs a rough glass coat to adhere to if it's too smooth or shiney at all it will release in a short time

 

[TFab]

Ah, unfortunately, I'm a journalist, so better with typing than cutting wood, but I'm willing to learn.

I love doing things like that.

A good pair of gloves helps alot on fiberglass rubber gloves are ok but stick together so easy

 

[Charliedog]

My original question was about the tank but I too had to re-core and glass the tank cover. I removed the old glass and rotten plywood squares. I used thickened epoxy to bond a single piece of 1/2” marine plywood to the cover which also filled the blown out screw holes. Then I used a single layer of 1708 bi-ax cloth to finish the underside. YouTube has a couple good videos about the subject. Now about rubber against an aluminum tank. I know Grady did it from the factory but doesn’t rubber react with aluminum causing pitting and corrosion? I used FRP as shims and support for my tank as DennisG01 had suggested

 

[DennisG01]

I know Grady did it from the factory but doesn’t rubber react with aluminum causing pitting and corrosion?

You are correct. Rubber contains carbon that can cause corrosion. Now, if they were actually neoprene strips (not "rubber"), then that part is moot. However, those strips weren't always bonded well (or could lose their bond) - and this would then allow moisture to seep in. Aluminum can self-protect itself... but only if it has good air around it (same for SS, actually).

 

[Shwood]

I am replacing the fuel tank on a 1989 tournament 19 and my question is this. How was the original tank held in place? The tank I removed was not correct for the boat so I have nothing to go by as far as what should be in the tank area. The new tank was built from Grady White’s original spec sheet, one inch shorter so it will fit through the deck. I bonded 1/4” thick 2” wide strips of fiberglass reinforced plastic to the tank to space it from the hull. Will adhesive/sealant applied to the strips when dropping it in place hold the tank from moving? I would really like to know what was under the tank cover in 1989. The Grady drawing has no tabs or brackets on the tank

We need to replace the tank in our 1989 Tournament 19. Boat is in winter storage. Any chance you have a part number so I can obtain spec sheet? Thanks.

 

[BIG B]

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE POLY TANK

 

[Charliedog]

I had an aluminum tank built from the original Grady White tank drawing. I had it done locally. I never found a viable poly replacement option.