Tournament 225 Ground Issue

Jambo

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The problem:
The GPS, VHS, stereo, and lighter sockets all went dead simultaneously. I tested the fuse block pos to negative with a muti-meter and found 3.6v. Then ran a wire to the battery positive through meter to fuse block negative. 12v reading. The switched to battery Neg to fuse block Pos. 12v reading. Now, when the POS and NEG wires are not attached to the fuse block and show 12v, and then when reattached show 3.6, I assume if have a circuit which is sucking power to a point where the radios, VHF and lighter sockets do not have enough voltage to work. I disconnect the VHF which seems to be where the draw is. Now I get 12v on the block terminals, BUT the GPS and stereo still so not work. Head scratching time. I get on a few forums, get a bunch of ideas and potential causes, and then sleep on it.

Here's some learnings for anyone hunting down an electrical gremlin on a boat. The problem is almost always on the ground side of the circuit.   And for me, I need to back off and think about all the aspects of the situation and not leap at one possible cause to the next. With the responses on a few forums and a chance to sleep on it, I woke up today with a clear idea of where the problem lay and how to fix it. Any, here's what happened (and please don't put me in the "what an idiot" category given how obvious this answer is):
1. I thought about the ground wiring for the boat. The engine and tilt trim are on their own independent circuits so it is no surprise they work fine when the GPS and radio do not. So, it seems there must be a ground block somewhere where all the circuits except the engine branch from. If I can find that, I can chase the ground wire from the ground block to the fuse block. So I opened the access to the back of the dashboard and there was the ground block staring right at me. I traced the wire to the fuse block, removed the wire from the ground block, and discovered the post to be loose and the connections slight corroded. I sanded and cleaned the contacts, reconnected, 12v power was restored, dielectric grease the connections and I am good to go.

Lessons learned:
1. Understand the big picture before producing the multi-meter and diving into the weeds. In my case, why would all three devices (stereo, VHF, and GPS die simultaneously) and why did the other circuits (horn, wipers, pumps, etc) all work fine even though they are fused at the fuse block. The reason is all those other circuits work is that they do not depend on the ground from the fuse block to work. They each have their own breakers at the console. With that said, they do depend on the fuse block ground in order to protect the circuit overall. 
2. Do not trust a circuit is delivering full amperage with no or low resistance even though the meter is telling you that you have 12v. The meter reading 12v even when testing the negative/ground directly to battery positive is not enough to determine you have a viable circuit.
3. Do not blame the multiplier electronic devices for a simultaneous catastrophic failure. Unless you were hit by lightning or taser-ed the devices, this just doesn't happen.
Thank you.
 

Halfhitch

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Good job of thinking your way through this Jambo. Chasing wires and finding all the junction blocks helps a guy trouble shoot problems in the future also. I'm glad you have things back in operation.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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You are a patient man. I have something drawing a tiny bit of current on my circuit 1 (battery1 )side of my switch. It has been this way for several years. I can't seem to solve it. If I leave the switch to battery 1 within 7 to 10 days that battery is drained. I have killed a few batteries over the years because of this. I don't know if it's my VHF, GPS or audio system, but what ever it is it will discharge my battery beyond recovery. Maybe you can drop on by and solve my problem ;-).
 

seasick

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Good logic but next time you isolat a ground issue much faster by measuring the voltage between, the NEG terminal on the fuse block/panel and the NEG terminal of the battery. With nothing powered up, you would expect to see just about 0 volts but when you tun on something, if you have a bad ground, the voltage will increase. Normally under load it will increase buy by a small amount, perhaps 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.

In your case, if the battery voltage was 12.5 volts and you read 3.6 at the fuse block pos bus, then you would have read several volts, up to 8.9s between the negative bus and the battery ground (at the battery).
You can thank Georg Ohm for that logic:)
 

seasick

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SmokyMtnGrady said:
You are a patient man. I have something drawing a tiny bit of current on my circuit 1 (battery1 )side of my switch. It has been this way for several years. I can't seem to solve it. If I leave the switch to battery 1 within 7 to 10 days that battery is drained. I have killed a few batteries over the years because of this. I don't know if it's my VHF, GPS or audio system, but what ever it is it will discharge my battery beyond recovery. Maybe you can drop on by and solve my problem ;-).
Assuming that the battery switch is off during non use and you don't have or have tried isolating a battery charger, the two more common causes of this are electronic bilge pumps and stereo system memory backup feeds. The later will take quite some time to drain the battery. The electronic bilge pumps drain faster.
One less common and often missed cause is a networking box for sounders or plotters. One example could be the 'black' box for structure scan and the like. It has a power feed and a control wire (yellow).
If the unit is connected directly to battery and the control wire is not wired correctly, the box draws power all the time even when the displays are powered off.

A less likely but possible cause is a current drain caused by a frayed wire or bare connection that is in contact with water, especially salt water or water spray. These can be really hard to isolate but the first step is to learn how to measure power drain current at the battery and start disconnecting fuses etc one by one to see when and if the drain stops.(sometimes just corrosion buildup on the bus bar block is the cause.)

A really less likely cause is a bad relay at an engine that causes it to be powered up even though the ignition switch is off. Depending on what is powered, the battery can drain quickly.

Hope this gives you some leads on trouble shooting your issue
 

Fishtales

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Ground loop problems suck...