Towing The Seafarer 228 With Chev Tahoe

[Parthery]

Your Tahoe likely has the "Tow/Haul" button on the gear shifter. Switch it on.

If your Tahoe is pre-2009 and has the "PRND321" then switching to "3" instead of "D" will lock out the torque converter.

If your Tahoe is newer and has the "PRNDM" then leave it in "D".

 

[DennisG01]

Just to add to what Parthery mentioned... Unless there's something new with the tranny that I'm not aware of, there is no way to 100% lockup the converter (at least there hasn't been in anything I've ever towed with - without special, aftermarket programming, anyways). Your converter will lockup at about 50mph under light acceleration (higher RPM's with higher throttle input). To you, it will feel like another shift. In other words, let's say you have 4 gears. If you note your shifts, from a standstill, you will feel 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and then you will feel another one - that's your converter locking up (creates less heat when locked).

Now, let's say you're traveling at 60MPH - you have probably already noticed this - if you add a little bit of throttle (not enough to downshift - just "goose" it about 1/2"), you will notice one of two things. If the converter is currently unlocked, you'll notice the RPM's jump up faster than your speed. If you notice the RPM's move up consistently with speed, then the converter is locked. On my Sub, I can also tell by coasting and tapping the brake - if the RPM's drop to idle, the converter is locked. But this is on an HD 4L80 and I don't know if that works with a LD tranny.

Locking/unlocking is determined by some fancy-shmancy algorithm based on speed, load, gear selection, throttle input, etc. Keeping the RPM's a little higher (a lower gear than normal) will help to keep the converter locked up at a lower speed, where a higher gear would need to unlock to retain power.

 

[Clockwork]

Just for clarification, with axle ratios, the higher the number the lower the ratio.

for example, 4.10 is "lower geared" than a 3.73

the "lower" the gears are the better it is for towing in general to keep rpms up.

 

[bigfishon]

Excellent details to know. I will have to do some experimenting the next time I have the Tahoe on the road and check out what you describe. My vehicle is a 2012 model with PRMDM shifting options and does have the "tow/haul" button. This is all very good info and helpful. I will also look into having a transmission cooler installed on my Tahoe. I had this done with a new Chevy Blazer I purchased years ago. I don't believe it was very expensive or complicated to install. May contact the local Chevrolet dealer about this. Since the Tahoe is still under warranty, I don't want to do anything to jeopardize the warranty coverage.

 

[DennisG01]

Since you have the manual control tranny (6 speeds IIRC), you can easily control it that way. Makes it super simple to control your gear and RPM.

 

[Curmudgeon]

and a weight distribution platform hitch.

Don't be misled, the factory 'weight distribution platform' is not the same as a 'weight distribution hitch'. Your 'platform likely has two limits, one for standard draw bar/ball, and one for a weight distribution hitch system. I have a '01 Tahoe that is rated at 7800#, 5.3 and 3.73 gears. My weak link is the transmission, and my T-22/trailer weighed in about 55-5800 depending on fuel, the 'Hoe was about 5200#, full fuel with no load. It pulled my T-22 just fine, but drinks fuel and will heat up the transmission some (verified with a trans temp gauge). Can't tell you about new ones, but I'd view the towing capacity (of any vehicle) with a jaundiced eye. Trust me, it's not fun to lose 2nd and 4th gear on the highway betwix here and there.

Another important weight limit to know is maximum combined gross weight. Mine is about 13k, and it's not hard to get there ... :wink:

 

[ddog]

2012 Tahoe/Yukon 5.3 2WD with 3.08 gears Max Towing is 5500lbs, 4wd cuts it down to 5200lbs. With a 3.42 rear end and on no K5L, 2wd you get 6000lbs, you need the 3.42 and the HD towing package (K5L) that adds engine,trans cooling etc to get to 8500. General rule of towing is do not exceed 80% of Max tow rating. There is also a maximum frontal area spec for towing. Flat land and short runs you are probably OK but it won't like it, I consider it borderline. Loading the Tahoe up with people and gear reduces the rating as well. You will definitely need very good trailer brakes. Look into an EOH trailer brake set up. If you are not upgrading your vehicle add a a high quality trans cooler like the tru-cool max or the OEM trans cooler spec'd for the HD trailer package. Often the engine oil cooler set ups are inline affairs with the oil filter and not too difficult to add either. OTH it sounds like a really good excuse to trade up to the redesigned 2015 Tahoe. Info posted is from the 2012 Trailer tow guide at Trailer life linked below. It doesn't give the GCVWR for your vehicle however (total combined maximum weight of loaded vehicle and trailer)

http://dcd96xmek71bc.cloudfront.net/tra ... lo_res.pdf

ddog