I'm considering a couple of 282 sailfishs. One with 9 ' beam and the other with 9.5. What is Max I can tow say from TN to Texas to Washington state?
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towing
- Thread starter rstep7243
- Start date
LeapFrog
Well-Known Member
I believe 8' 6" is the universally accepted width without needing a permit throughout most all states. Some states are more particular about pulling folks over then others. Officially, you would need permits in each state you went through... a royal pain and adds up...
I briefly looked into this when considering buying a boat in California and getting it back to Maryland... I gave up after getting some estimates from moving services and the costs just for permits...
Don't take my comments as gospel, but it's a start... DMV's for each state will have their exact specs...
I briefly looked into this when considering buying a boat in California and getting it back to Maryland... I gave up after getting some estimates from moving services and the costs just for permits...
Don't take my comments as gospel, but it's a start... DMV's for each state will have their exact specs...
Daman858
GreatGrady Captain
States go by the FCR...Federal Code of Regulations...which allows up to 102 inches or 8'6" in width. There are several companies that will all the permits that you need for you, for a fee of course. Just do a search for wide load permits. The company you deal with should tell you exactly what you need as far as signage and an escort car, if necessary.
Desperado
Well-Known Member
You might want to check on your specs. All GW Sailfish have a 9'6" beam (measured at the max width). The transom is not the widest point of the boat. That may be where the dealer or individual is coming up with the 9' number.
every state has their own regs when it comes to towing overwidth loads (loads over 8'6").
in general, less than 10' wide and a simple permit (one time use or annual permit can be purchased); over 10' and in most areas you're into having to have corner marker flags and stuff and possibly even a pilot car(s).
I must admit that i've been towing my 282 with 9.5' beam with out any permits even knowing that it's a simple application and costs less than $40 for the season.
the 9.5' beam does not look crazy wide and i don't have any issues towing (it really only looks slightly wider than an 8.5' beam boat and you really only notice if two boats are beside each other).
Q: what if i get stopped and get questioned about the boat and trailer? A: I don't know, i guess i hope it never happens and i'll cross that bridge when i get there.
in general, less than 10' wide and a simple permit (one time use or annual permit can be purchased); over 10' and in most areas you're into having to have corner marker flags and stuff and possibly even a pilot car(s).
I must admit that i've been towing my 282 with 9.5' beam with out any permits even knowing that it's a simple application and costs less than $40 for the season.
the 9.5' beam does not look crazy wide and i don't have any issues towing (it really only looks slightly wider than an 8.5' beam boat and you really only notice if two boats are beside each other).
Q: what if i get stopped and get questioned about the boat and trailer? A: I don't know, i guess i hope it never happens and i'll cross that bridge when i get there.
Salinity Now
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Interesting topic, espcially since Im looking into the exact same boat. My previous boat was a 2360 Sailfish 9'6" beam, I towed up and down from VA to GA with out permits. I got word through a freind who works in DOT its Trailer Width vs max beam of your boat, I know that can be a gray area, but its what I "heard".....(insert grain of salt <HERE>)!!
For those that have towed 282's whats the trailering weight of the load? I desperately want a 30'Marlin, but I know I cant tow that, even with permits its to big for my 2500HD (gas) and I do NOT want to buy a new truck to tow a new boat.
Great Forum, looking to be a "real member" soon!!!
For those that have towed 282's whats the trailering weight of the load? I desperately want a 30'Marlin, but I know I cant tow that, even with permits its to big for my 2500HD (gas) and I do NOT want to buy a new truck to tow a new boat.
Great Forum, looking to be a "real member" soon!!!
i keep wanting to hit a scale and get the rig weighed, but i seem to always be rushed or the scale is closed.
my best guess for the rig weight would be 5800# boat, 1200# motors (F225's), 1500# fuel, 500# misc gear and tackle, tri-axle 15,000# trailer 1500# = total of approx 10,500#s
not a clue on the tongue weight, but i don't have any towing issues such as sway with the current set-up.
you can utilize a HD tandem trailer with 7000 or 7500# axles, but i prefer a tri-axle trailer.
tri-axle means added maintenace and more tires, but i feel that it carries the boat better and gives me a better safely margin should a tire or even a whole axle fail.
I recently had a bearing literally toast on me this season and was very happy to have 5 tires and 2.5 axles to safely carry the boat a short distance to get repaired.
This past month i've added another spare full tire/hub/bearings/spindle assembly (now total 2 full sets) along with a spare hub/bearing set should i just need to replace a bearing.
Possibly pounding out bearing races and repacking the new bearings with grease on the side of the road does not appeal to me so carrying some inexpensive spare parts for faster and easier fixes is my route.
I now check before every trip the grease condition in each wheel (pull the rubber center cap off and look at the color of the grease), if it's cloudly/milky i can in a pinch shoot a little more clean grease into the hub and change the grease later or if i'm at home, i'll try to repack the bearing and consider replacing the back seal.
I don't like bearing buddies as they necessitate the hub be filled with grease which leave little room for any expansion or the needed air to help keep the bearings cooled, they make visually inspecting the grease difficult, the spring mechanism isn't perfectly consistent so it's very easy to over grease a hub and blow the grease out the back seal which can be a really bad thing if you run drum brakes as the grease is now all inside your drum!
One last thing, when the boat is off the trailer, its a perfect time to check the play in the wheel and avoid excessive play to expedite bearing failure.
with the boat off the trailer, simply grab the top of the tire and give it a good shake. A small bit of play is ok, too much and either you need to replace bearings or the nut needs to be tightened up (but not too much as too much can be worse than too loose!).
my best guess for the rig weight would be 5800# boat, 1200# motors (F225's), 1500# fuel, 500# misc gear and tackle, tri-axle 15,000# trailer 1500# = total of approx 10,500#s
not a clue on the tongue weight, but i don't have any towing issues such as sway with the current set-up.
you can utilize a HD tandem trailer with 7000 or 7500# axles, but i prefer a tri-axle trailer.
tri-axle means added maintenace and more tires, but i feel that it carries the boat better and gives me a better safely margin should a tire or even a whole axle fail.
I recently had a bearing literally toast on me this season and was very happy to have 5 tires and 2.5 axles to safely carry the boat a short distance to get repaired.
This past month i've added another spare full tire/hub/bearings/spindle assembly (now total 2 full sets) along with a spare hub/bearing set should i just need to replace a bearing.
Possibly pounding out bearing races and repacking the new bearings with grease on the side of the road does not appeal to me so carrying some inexpensive spare parts for faster and easier fixes is my route.
I now check before every trip the grease condition in each wheel (pull the rubber center cap off and look at the color of the grease), if it's cloudly/milky i can in a pinch shoot a little more clean grease into the hub and change the grease later or if i'm at home, i'll try to repack the bearing and consider replacing the back seal.
I don't like bearing buddies as they necessitate the hub be filled with grease which leave little room for any expansion or the needed air to help keep the bearings cooled, they make visually inspecting the grease difficult, the spring mechanism isn't perfectly consistent so it's very easy to over grease a hub and blow the grease out the back seal which can be a really bad thing if you run drum brakes as the grease is now all inside your drum!
One last thing, when the boat is off the trailer, its a perfect time to check the play in the wheel and avoid excessive play to expedite bearing failure.
with the boat off the trailer, simply grab the top of the tire and give it a good shake. A small bit of play is ok, too much and either you need to replace bearings or the nut needs to be tightened up (but not too much as too much can be worse than too loose!).