Just to clarify, you will want to search for Timken bearimgs. 
Smokey, how often where you greasing?
Smokey, how often where you greasing?
Trailer bearings question
- Thread starter SmokyMtnGrady
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family affair said:Just to clarify, you will want to search for Timken bearimgs.
Just to clarify even further, search for Timken bearings...
I tow quite a lot and to date (knock on wood), I've never had a bearing failure. I've had tires and brakes, but no bearings. Fingers crossed! One thing I'm careful with is not overloading with grease. I've mostly Bearing Buddy's and I only pump grease in a couple times per year. Pushing too much grease in can blow the rear seal out. Doc explained it well about "rocking the SS plate". If you look closely, you can see where the SS plate will stop, as it gets pushed out. I always try to stop pumping before the plate stops moving. I think the most important thing is simply doing some PM - inspecting things, repacking, putting your head under the boat and looking at the back side of the hub once in a while, etc.
I do sometimes use an IR gun to check hubs/tires, but most of the time I just use my hand since I always have that with me. I make it a habit, whenever I stop, to do a quick walk around and feel the tread and the hubs, looking for anomalies/outliers.
Typically I have either Palmetto Boat in Greenville tear down the hubs and repack or a local guy here in the RV/Boat universe do it before each long trip. I then supplement grease with each trip as needed locally.
On long trips at every stop I feel the hubs. Maybe the IR thing is the way to go. All my true experience comes from fixing spindles, hubs and bearings enroute. So, this season I. Thinking I just need take a day and do it all myself. The castle nut thing a guy from Florence SC at a marine dealer showed me how to torque it down, back it off and then hand tighten.
What kind of gets me annoyed is my trailer I bought from Seele's in Charleston who is a freaking Grady dealer. The trailer works if you are going to the ramp, it's flat and all. In my opinion every Grady should be specked out with oversize everything. I am fortunate I have skills to work on the darn thing lol.
On long trips at every stop I feel the hubs. Maybe the IR thing is the way to go. All my true experience comes from fixing spindles, hubs and bearings enroute. So, this season I. Thinking I just need take a day and do it all myself. The castle nut thing a guy from Florence SC at a marine dealer showed me how to torque it down, back it off and then hand tighten.
What kind of gets me annoyed is my trailer I bought from Seele's in Charleston who is a freaking Grady dealer. The trailer works if you are going to the ramp, it's flat and all. In my opinion every Grady should be specked out with oversize everything. I am fortunate I have skills to work on the darn thing lol.
I am certain, as I mentioned in my previous reply, that the dealers marginalize the trailer to just enough cap to create an attractive price package.
Your average buyer who trailers short distances or maybe a long trip infrequently will never question it and be happy with the "discount." I never did until I started having the aforementioned troubles.
Again, if I was putting a new trailer under your Seafarer I would rig it with 10K cap, electric over hydraulic brakes, oversize frame and a custom flush kit that bathes your complete wheel, top-to-bottom in fresh water w/ a hose attachment on the aluminum step forward of the front tandem.
Add the lube regimen that others have suggested and I'll be truly astounded if you have any more roadside problems.
Your average buyer who trailers short distances or maybe a long trip infrequently will never question it and be happy with the "discount." I never did until I started having the aforementioned troubles.
Again, if I was putting a new trailer under your Seafarer I would rig it with 10K cap, electric over hydraulic brakes, oversize frame and a custom flush kit that bathes your complete wheel, top-to-bottom in fresh water w/ a hose attachment on the aluminum step forward of the front tandem.
Add the lube regimen that others have suggested and I'll be truly astounded if you have any more roadside problems.
I need to do a Go Fund me page and play up that my son who loves boating is severely disabled and the top dog trailer is his "wish" ... Then i can repower and buy the Mac daddy trailer ;-) ....Just having some fun. I have some ideas to maybe get that dream trailer before our July trek to Key Largo and our side trip to Bimini.
Hope it works out.. Things have a way of lining up right sometimes.
It's easy for me to play armchair quarterback and say "spend this..do this.." I realize the world we live in and decisions have to be made with regard to spending.
I'm particularly passionate about this subject since I've had so many problems in the past. I was furious when I stumbled onto the fact that is was due to cost-cutting and deliberately downsizing. I assumed that dealerships were experienced in mating trailers with boats.
I would drive slowly, (55-60MPH), try to miss bumps,(that gets harder as you head North with the freeze/thaw factor) and still I was blowing bearings, seals..Yikes.
Ok, I'll stop..Good luck Smoky!
It's easy for me to play armchair quarterback and say "spend this..do this.." I realize the world we live in and decisions have to be made with regard to spending.
I'm particularly passionate about this subject since I've had so many problems in the past. I was furious when I stumbled onto the fact that is was due to cost-cutting and deliberately downsizing. I assumed that dealerships were experienced in mating trailers with boats.
I would drive slowly, (55-60MPH), try to miss bumps,(that gets harder as you head North with the freeze/thaw factor) and still I was blowing bearings, seals..Yikes.
Ok, I'll stop..Good luck Smoky!
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Hey Bob,
Check out Road King trailers just down the road from you in Candler. I put one under my Seaswirl and had no issues, but it was also overbuilt. Like you, trailering from Kentucky to South Carolina each time puts wear and tear on it. My boat I'm after has a Loadmaster under it. It was purchased by current owner because when he purchased the boat, the trailer was undersized. I'm hoping it'll hold up, guess I'll give it a good workout coming home from Florida.
Check out Road King trailers just down the road from you in Candler. I put one under my Seaswirl and had no issues, but it was also overbuilt. Like you, trailering from Kentucky to South Carolina each time puts wear and tear on it. My boat I'm after has a Loadmaster under it. It was purchased by current owner because when he purchased the boat, the trailer was undersized. I'm hoping it'll hold up, guess I'll give it a good workout coming home from Florida.
I agree with the idea of overbuilding a trailer. It's like HP, you can't go wrong with more. But one word of caution would be that you don't want to go too far overboard with the capacity. If you get a trailer TOO much "overbuilt", you run the risk of creating a very harsh ride for the boat. If you've ever ridden in an older, 1-ton duallie when unloaded... you know EXACTLY what I'm talking about! :mrgreen:
I also think there's much to be said for buying a quality trailer and not just buying based on cost. I think that the better trailers start with better quality components to start with. While ShoreLand'r is not the only "good" trailer manufacturer out there, I'll use them in an example. Aside from owning a few of them (and I do a lot of trailering), I also work part time at a Sea Ray dealership (for about 20 years, now... crap, I'm getting old!). Sea Ray has packaged Shoreland'r trailers with their boats since 2001. They are "spec'd" with roughly 5% (give or take a bit) extra weight capacity, over and above boat/gas/batteries. It is EXTREMELY rare for us to see a customer come in with a bearing issue. And we have a decent amount of customers that, when we remind them about "good maintenance procedures", will say to us "Grease? I have put grease in where?" :roll:
My point is, I think that with your better trailers, there's a sort of "margin of error" already built in, even though the official specs may not show that. And also that the components they use are of better quality to begin with.
I also agree that there are plenty of places - ESPECIALLY online trailer purchase places - that are selling based on, primarily, cost. And therefore may overlook quality and reliability for a quick buck.
I also think there's much to be said for buying a quality trailer and not just buying based on cost. I think that the better trailers start with better quality components to start with. While ShoreLand'r is not the only "good" trailer manufacturer out there, I'll use them in an example. Aside from owning a few of them (and I do a lot of trailering), I also work part time at a Sea Ray dealership (for about 20 years, now... crap, I'm getting old!). Sea Ray has packaged Shoreland'r trailers with their boats since 2001. They are "spec'd" with roughly 5% (give or take a bit) extra weight capacity, over and above boat/gas/batteries. It is EXTREMELY rare for us to see a customer come in with a bearing issue. And we have a decent amount of customers that, when we remind them about "good maintenance procedures", will say to us "Grease? I have put grease in where?" :roll:
My point is, I think that with your better trailers, there's a sort of "margin of error" already built in, even though the official specs may not show that. And also that the components they use are of better quality to begin with.
I also agree that there are plenty of places - ESPECIALLY online trailer purchase places - that are selling based on, primarily, cost. And therefore may overlook quality and reliability for a quick buck.
I'd suspect Timkin, SKF or NHBB would have a better more reliable product than those private label brands supplied by Chinese auto parts mfg's.
Magic:
I am not at all annoyed or bothered by your suggestions. I really want a new motor so that want is out playing my need for a better a trailer. I am good at road side work , I am tired of it though. Really tired of it, so like you I have been there trailering long distances with a heavy boat .
Turns out my boat loan through USAA that I have a lean on my motor . I have to refinance to clear the lean as I owe so little that the hull alone can be used to refinance . The guy told me that when I refinance they would release the trailer lean. At said point I will put both trailers for sale here,THT and Craig's list.
I am not at all annoyed or bothered by your suggestions. I really want a new motor so that want is out playing my need for a better a trailer. I am good at road side work , I am tired of it though. Really tired of it, so like you I have been there trailering long distances with a heavy boat .
Turns out my boat loan through USAA that I have a lean on my motor . I have to refinance to clear the lean as I owe so little that the hull alone can be used to refinance . The guy told me that when I refinance they would release the trailer lean. At said point I will put both trailers for sale here,THT and Craig's list.
Lt.Mike
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Smokey, I don't know if I missed it but are you towing with one or two axles?
I've got two axles under my Overnighter but I've seen others tow this boat with single axle trailers.
I feel like that's pushing it. If your using a single axle I wouldn't be surprised to see bearings fail.
I feel your pain on wanting a new trailer. My funds are spread thin and my own trailer is in need of rebuilding or replacement. I've been doing repair but want new. Best I've seen are the loadrite trailers bunk style which go for $2,500.
Mike
I've got two axles under my Overnighter but I've seen others tow this boat with single axle trailers.
I feel like that's pushing it. If your using a single axle I wouldn't be surprised to see bearings fail.
I feel your pain on wanting a new trailer. My funds are spread thin and my own trailer is in need of rebuilding or replacement. I've been doing repair but want new. Best I've seen are the loadrite trailers bunk style which go for $2,500.
Mike