Trailer brakes and actuator

[mmiela]

I just replaced my rusty old hubs, rotors etc with new Tie Down brakes. Now looking at the master cylinder inside the reservoir there is rusty flaky stuff and I am sure the lock out reverse selenoid is shot.

The actuator has some rust on it but still functions. Should I just replace the master cylinder and selenoid or just bite the bullet and replace the entire actuator?

I have a Titan 6000 now but if I replace it do I need to use Tie Down actuator or can I use the Titan? These are disc brakes BTW.

 

[Parthery]

Replace it. They aren't that expensive. Make sure you get one with a solenoid so that you can back up.

 

[Harpoon]

There may also be re-build kits available.

 

[DennisG01]

Take a look at the price difference for a MC and compare it to the whole actuator. Then decide if it's it's worth your time to change out the MC, or not. My opinion on this may not match yours, but actuators for small boats are pretty inexpensive.

The brakes don't care what brand actuator or MC you have. Just as long as it's meant for discs.

 

[mmiela]

I ended up replacing the actuator with the same Titan 6000. The holes lined up and install was a breeze. Now I have to run brake lines. Should be interesting as I have never done this.

 

[mmiela]

Can't get a brake with this trailer. All brake lines on axles have been replaced but the main feed which I didn't replace is leaking. Thinking of just running the line down the tongue and then run it down the inside of the frame back to the fitting. Don't know if snaking it through the three tiny holes will be easy.