Trailer Care

[Jonah]

Hi all,

As evidenced in the photo attached, my boat went in the water this weekend! But this will be my first season taking care of an empty trailer—any advice?

I've put it on bricks, so as to take pressure off the tires. I also put a plastic bag over the electronics at the connecting point. (Not sure how much either of those matter, but they seemed like good ideas.) Should I also cover up the yellow wheels, to prevent sun damage? I figure that I shouldn't cover the whole trailer, or else condensation would lead to rust etc?

Thanks!

 

[DennisG01]

If you dunked it in salt water, did you rinse it off?

Putting it on blocks... Yeah, doesn't really matter - the tires will be just fine. But if it makes you feel better, then go for it!

You probably don't have any "electronics", given the size of the boat. If you did have EOH, they're usually covered up well enough it's own case. However, if you have a braking model, you do have a master cylinder. You really don't need to cover that up, either. If you did, I wouldn't use a plastic bag for the condensation reason. Canvas would be better. The rollers, also, don't need any cover. If you have a nylon web winch strap, cover that - the sun degrades it.

Granted, everything is better if it's out of the weather, but unless you want to get a cover made for the whole trailer... well, you might be the first to do that! :mrgreen:

What I WOULD do is to spray a protectant on the coupler/master cylinder, all bolts/u-bolts for tightness/corrosion, any exposed grounds/electrical connections for the lights, etc. Don't bother with the WD-40, though. It's not meant for this application. Boeshield T9 or Amsoil HD Metal Protectant are FANTASTIC! Amsoil has a yellowish color to it, but it's a little bit more HD... however, Boeshield is still an excellent product.

Now is a good time to go around and check all your running light connections... inspect all fasteners/hardware... pull out and inspect the winch strap/cable...check brakes... repack the bearings...
You could cover the tires with canvas - at least the side that gets the direct sun.

 

[Parthery]

Dennis gave you good advice. If it was dunked in saltwater, I'd make sure everything was rinsed and cleaned thoroughly. Then spray all the hardware with corrosion x or CRC. You've already jacked up the frame to get the weight off the tires. No need to cover the rollers, but it wouldn't hurt to cover the tires. Better yet, take them off and put them in the basement. This also makes it MUCH harder to steal the trailer.

 

[seasick]

Hi all,

As evidenced in the photo attached, my boat went in the water this weekend! But this will be my first season taking care of an empty trailer—any advice?

I've put it on bricks, so as to take pressure off the tires. I also put a plastic bag over the electronics at the connecting point. (Not sure how much either of those matter, but they seemed like good ideas.) Should I also cover up the yellow wheels, to prevent sun damage? I figure that I shouldn't cover the whole trailer, or else condensation would lead to rust etc?

Thanks!

If the bag was put on the connector which i suspect you did and it is tied off, it will form condensation on the inside. I don't think that is a good idea. Covering it so that is doesn't get rained on but can drain is a better idea.
Rinsing after a dunk, especially salt water is critical. You need to run water through the box beams, the main tongue and of course the drums if present. These trailers rot from the inside out.
The rollers don't need to be covered but a little lube every now and then will help on the rotating parts. Another critical area are the bearings. You should make sure that they are greased regularly to keep moisture out. You will benefit by covering the winch and greasing the jack. Grease the wheel lugs too. All that said, you will be surprised at how fast your new trailer will start to rust.

 

[Jonah]

Hi all,

As always, thanks for the input. As for the 'electronics', it is a braking model, even with some feature that engages the brakes if it becomes detached from the hitch or begins to roll backwards. Those wires are all up near the connection point, and so I put a plastic bag over them, but left the bag wide open and untied, so that no condensation would form.

And yes, I dunked it in brackish water, and so I suppose that I should still go rinse it off (two days later ... ).

I will pick up some Boeshield T9 (which was also recommended to me for chrome parts on the boat), and will apply it as Dennis has recommended. (Parthery, is this the same as Corrosion X or CRC?) I'll also grease the items that Seasick listed.

Thanks again!

 

[DennisG01]

As for the 'electronics', it is a braking model, even with some feature that engages the brakes if it becomes detached from the hitch or begins to roll backwards.

The part that "engages the brakes" is a mechanical device, as is everything else there. No electricity is required for the brakes to work. The only electrical stuff is your lights. The only other possible electric device is a reverse lock-out solenoid - but that is a sealed unit... and would only possibly be present if you had disc brakes.

 

[Parthery]

Corrosion X and CRC are similar products....Boeshield T-9 is fine too. Whatever your local marine supply store stocks...

As mentioned, your trailer has hydraulic surge brakes. The only electrical connection is to the reverse solenoid. I wouldn't bag the connections...condensation build up can lead to mold etc.....they will be fine in the open.

 

[Jonah]

Got it; thanks again everyone!