Trailer guide poles or side bunks
- Thread starter Lt.Mike
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Ok great thanks. That’s not at all what I imagined it to look like.
Certainly gives me something to work with.
Certainly gives me something to work with.
With that design, you definitely want to find a way to cushion the ends of the steps, and have your winch handle on the opposite side, because it is only a matter of time before you stand up and a step catches you in the back of the head.
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I can see that happening. There is very few times I’ve hit a ramp when things weren’t rushed. That’s the nature of the beast.
Cats and pontoons are usually a little easier to do this given the shape of the bow. But I don’t think it would be very hard at all for a v-hull — and certainly there’s more than one way to do it. For some other pictures, go to www.shorelandr.com and click on the pontoon section. Although most of what you see there will likely be steps/winch stand as a pre-fabbed “all in one” unit.
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I’ve been thinking about what you’ve said here Dennis. I always prep, load, and hook up the night before a trip so I can jump in the truck and go. I’m thinking of taking a minute to grab the hose and spray the rollers particularly the front half one more time wetting them just before I leave.DennisG01 said:
I had this issue with the rollers for awhile and had squeezed a little triple guard grease into the rolling portion which did help. Maybe a quick shot of water just prior will help.
I’m slowly replacing suspect rubber rollers with poly also.
I certainly don't know if that's truly the reason, but it makes at least "some" sense. However, you might be better off spraying the rollers when you get home - before the salt has a good chance to setup real well. Spraying them before you leave can't hurt, either. Grease is great - like you mentioned - but obviously the rollers are an awkward thing to grease on a regular basis. Maybe some spray lube (silicone, for example) on a regular basis? Just tossing out some ideas.
Here's two more...
-- If the rig is stored with it's aft end near something sturdy, before you go the ramp, do a quick tie-off from the stern eyes to that sturdy thing. Loosen the winch a turn or two (and stern straps), drive forward. Untie and re-tighten winch/straps. Seems like a big process, but it could probably be done in about 5 minutes.
-- On your street or the ramp parking lot (somewhere where there aren't any cars right nearby), loosen the winch strap/cable a turn or two (and the stern straps). Get going in reverse and slam on the brakes. You can do the same thing in forward to move the boat back to the bow roller before re-securing for trailering. Although if you do it at the ramp, you don't need to worry about it. Before anyone flames me for this, I've done this so many times (for various reasons) with boats both smaller and much bigger it's almost become a normal thing to do. It sounds crazy, but it's actually pretty easy and safe. BUT, as a pre-caution... do not remove the safety chain!
Here's two more...
-- If the rig is stored with it's aft end near something sturdy, before you go the ramp, do a quick tie-off from the stern eyes to that sturdy thing. Loosen the winch a turn or two (and stern straps), drive forward. Untie and re-tighten winch/straps. Seems like a big process, but it could probably be done in about 5 minutes.
-- On your street or the ramp parking lot (somewhere where there aren't any cars right nearby), loosen the winch strap/cable a turn or two (and the stern straps). Get going in reverse and slam on the brakes. You can do the same thing in forward to move the boat back to the bow roller before re-securing for trailering. Although if you do it at the ramp, you don't need to worry about it. Before anyone flames me for this, I've done this so many times (for various reasons) with boats both smaller and much bigger it's almost become a normal thing to do. It sounds crazy, but it's actually pretty easy and safe. BUT, as a pre-caution... do not remove the safety chain!
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I am always a stickler about hosing salt off of everything when I get home after a trip. That includes the entire trailer. WD40 plays a roll too but not on the rollers. I wouldn’t use silicone spray either on them as they are rubber. Rubber can absorb silicone causing it to swell, soften too much.
The triple guard grease maybe part silicone but I haven’t seen it adversely affect the rubber rollers as yet.
On your backing technique I’m still working that out in my head. :wink:
Sounds a little scary, but there is some there that makes sense.
I wonder about something else. As the boat had sat on the trailer for a couple weeks since it’s last trip perhaps the old rubber rollers flat spotted???
Mike
The triple guard grease maybe part silicone but I haven’t seen it adversely affect the rubber rollers as yet.
On your backing technique I’m still working that out in my head. :wink:
Sounds a little scary, but there is some there that makes sense.
I wonder about something else. As the boat had sat on the trailer for a couple weeks since it’s last trip perhaps the old rubber rollers flat spotted???
Mike
Petroleum-based products are the ones that are no good for rubber - silicone spray is safe.
Flat spots... I think that's a good possibility - I was kinda wondering the same thing. Especially if, as you say, they're likely past their "best if used by" date.
Which backing up? The one in reverse and slamming on the brakes? Yeah, most people cringe and look at me like I'm crazy when I suggest that. I assume you're doing the same thing - I just can't see your face :mrgreen: Essentially, you loosen up the winch strap, loosen the aft stern straps and then get going about 10MPH (I've gone faster, FYI) in reverse and slam on the brakes. Maybe you want to start at 5MPH till you get a comfort level built up. That should be enough to get the rollers rolling so when you dunk the boat it rolls right off.
Another thing that might help... Try trimming the motor differently when you're at the ramp and are putting it in reverse to slide off the trailer. Obviously don't go so low that you put the skeg on the ramp, but try either lower or higher with the motor.
Flat spots... I think that's a good possibility - I was kinda wondering the same thing. Especially if, as you say, they're likely past their "best if used by" date.
Which backing up? The one in reverse and slamming on the brakes? Yeah, most people cringe and look at me like I'm crazy when I suggest that. I assume you're doing the same thing - I just can't see your face :mrgreen: Essentially, you loosen up the winch strap, loosen the aft stern straps and then get going about 10MPH (I've gone faster, FYI) in reverse and slam on the brakes. Maybe you want to start at 5MPH till you get a comfort level built up. That should be enough to get the rollers rolling so when you dunk the boat it rolls right off.
Another thing that might help... Try trimming the motor differently when you're at the ramp and are putting it in reverse to slide off the trailer. Obviously don't go so low that you put the skeg on the ramp, but try either lower or higher with the motor.
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“Best if used by date” himmmm, the boats an ‘87and it’s the original trailer.
Wonder if rollers are like cheese and don’t go bad?
My wife cringes when I make that cheese reference. :lol:
Like I said I’m slowly replacing the rollers with poly so that should help.
Wonder if rollers are like cheese and don’t go bad?
My wife cringes when I make that cheese reference. :lol:
Like I said I’m slowly replacing the rollers with poly so that should help.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
Lt.Mike said:
They aren't cheap are they? But they will make a difference. Much more "slippery". And change them before you lose one an take a chunk of fiberglass with it. The rubber ones will eventually fail. I'm surprised they lasted for you this long.
DennisG01 said:
I'm sure Mike is a pro, so no disparaging here, but most people can't back up straight going 2 miles an hour never mind ten!!! :lol:
You mean those rubber rollers might be 30 years old? Wow. YES - like Journey said, I would be replacing them ASAP. I've seen what happens - it ain't pretty. If you have a relatively flat area where you park the rig, it is a relatively quick and easy job to take the boat completely off the trailer. It's much safer to work on the rollers that way - and SO MUCH easier!
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Already did that :roll:journeyman said:
And no they aren’t cheap which is why I’m picking away at it.
Pro? I don’t know about that but after I retired I got roped into driving a dually pickup part time towing a 36’ gooseneck loaded with counterweights or commercial AC units for a local crane company. Gets fun when I drive through towns like Wildwood in summer traffic. Add to tat I’m often overloaded with less than perfect equipment things can get interesting.
Not a pro but maybe better than average at backing a trailer.
journeyman
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Lt.Mike said:
Wow. ??? It was a joke about MOST people being bad at backing up a trailer! We've all seen them at the ramp...
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Most people can’t back a car much less a trailer.
My driveway is about 150’. It gets comical watching visitors try to back out. I had one woman back 6’ off to the side into a tree and a mailman after multiple failed attempts did a u-turn across my front yard leaving ruts in the process. Nice. :roll:
Ok I have two bits of simple advice to maneuvering a trailer to any newbie...
First put you hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and leave it there. If you want the trailer to go right swing your hand to the right. It’s the simplest way to do it.
And go slow. If the trailer turns to far, stop don’t get flustered pull up till you straighten out and try again.
I don’t care how experienced you are your gonna have to do that once in a while.
Time out on lookers, like race fans they just want to see a crash.
The second tip is something nobody does but should.
Grab cones, trash cans, whatever and tow your rig to an empty lot. Set up a course and practice so that you can the feel for it and gain confidence.
One huge safety tip I can include is when loaded on the ramp and ready to pull out work in this order,
E-brake on, foot on brake, shift to drive, foot on gas, E-brake off. If you’ve got 4wd use it.
Earlier this year I screwed up the order and released the E-brake before shifting. My brake line popped and I almost launched my rig. I knew better, but that brain fart almost cost me dearly.
My driveway is about 150’. It gets comical watching visitors try to back out. I had one woman back 6’ off to the side into a tree and a mailman after multiple failed attempts did a u-turn across my front yard leaving ruts in the process. Nice. :roll:
Ok I have two bits of simple advice to maneuvering a trailer to any newbie...
First put you hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and leave it there. If you want the trailer to go right swing your hand to the right. It’s the simplest way to do it.
And go slow. If the trailer turns to far, stop don’t get flustered pull up till you straighten out and try again.
I don’t care how experienced you are your gonna have to do that once in a while.
Time out on lookers, like race fans they just want to see a crash.
The second tip is something nobody does but should.
Grab cones, trash cans, whatever and tow your rig to an empty lot. Set up a course and practice so that you can the feel for it and gain confidence.
One huge safety tip I can include is when loaded on the ramp and ready to pull out work in this order,
E-brake on, foot on brake, shift to drive, foot on gas, E-brake off. If you’ve got 4wd use it.
Earlier this year I screwed up the order and released the E-brake before shifting. My brake line popped and I almost launched my rig. I knew better, but that brain fart almost cost me dearly.