Trailer Guide Poles

[Meanwhile]

I have a triple axle I Beam trailer that I use to move my 2007 Marlin. I have to sink the trailer very deep to load and it is difficult to tell how centered the boat is. I use a boat hook to locate the fenders and try to keep the boat centered as someone else cranks the winch. I'm looking for some ideas on guide poles that I can mount.

One idea that didn't work is the CE Smith 75" guide poles, they do not extend out far enough to work with my boat. From the I Beam it looks to be 22 -24" to clear the widest portion of the boat. The CE Smith only extend out 19".

Anyone use guide poles for a Marlin sized boat?

 

[DennisG01]

A 10-1/2" beam boat on a standard trailer can present issues. However, you don't necessarily need to completely clear the widest portion of your boat (windshield area, give or take). The guide poles will flex. Check the width at the transom and see how your clearance is there. You've probably got about a foot less of beam there at the transom than you do at the widest point.

If you still need more room, you might be able to shim the part of the metal guide that attaches to the trailer frame so it angles out a bit. You could also simply bend the metal piece, too.

Maybe the trailer simply isn't set up correctly? If a (good) trailer is properly set up, then you should be able to load it without guide poles. Sounds like you might be putting it too far into the water. Can you power load (long, cement ramp)?

Roller or bunk? Either way, maybe adding a (or another) set of bunks would help. Either under the stern or centering bunks under the bow.

 

[GulfSea]

Agree setting up a trailer isn't easy but I'll never have a trailer without guide posts; the guide post provide a reference for coming in and visual of trailer depth. Maybe double up a couple posts in each side since she's so big? Either way, I always set my trailers up so it's very easy to load. But my 228 was more of a challenge than the bass boats I've had before. So after getting the trailer set up correctly, I put rubber bands on the guide posts. Then moved them up and/or down to mark the prime spots for launching and retrieving. Once I found the best water level on the posts, I painted a mark where the rubber bands were set.

Our tides only change 12 inches so I ended up only painting one spot on my posts. Now I back down just a little beyond the mark to wet the bunks, then pull back to the mark and push her off. Same with loading, go a little deeper than the mark to wet the bunks, then come back up and load.

 

[DennisG01]

but I'll never have a trailer without guide posts; the guide post provide a reference for coming in and visual of trailer depth.

I tend to use the fenders as depth reference, but that's a good idea you had of painting a line on the posts - in time, you could even have multiple lines, depending on the angle of the ramp. You're right, though, they can certainly be a nice 'safety factor', especially with a beam wind.

 

[Meanwhile]

I appreciate the input. On my last boat I installed 12' side boards for windy loads on a 26' boat. I could load that boat with power loading as I also had UHMW strip on my bunks.

This boat is just that much more weight that power loading is not possible unless I sink the trailer deep.

We used to have a great shop in town but they moved out. I'm still looking for a shop to adjust my bunks for me.

 

[DennisG01]

Once it's adjusted properly (hopefully it's a decent trailer that will allow for that), that might make all the difference in the world. I've loaded 15K lb cruiser numerous times and can still power load them. My other boat is a 28' Sea Ray and, while a little lighter than your Marlin, my wife power loads it all the time. However, the guide posts are cheap enough that if you can get them to work, you may not have to get it re-adjusted.

Are you comfortable doing the re-adjusting yourself, with some guidance? If you want to, post a few pictures (from the side and from the back) of how it currently sits on the trailer. It's sometimes hard to help via a forum, but if you're willing, I am too! Although you'll still be stuck with the hard part!!!

 

[Meanwhile]

I'll take some photos today. Putting a new antenna on, darned memory and low wires.

Also, a plea for the administration to use Tapatalk, makes photos effortless.

 

[magicalbill]

No Bail;

Another perspective here..

My technique is as follows;
Like Dennis, I submerge the trailer to approx the top of the fender wells. This leaves the carpeted bunks barely below the surface with the water lapping over them.
At this position/level the boat is FORCED to track on the same way every time as the hull comes in contact with the bunks and settles in to it's pre-adjusted position..Sink it too deep and the aft section will lose contact with the bunks and float this way and that with the current/wind as I'm sure you know.

Obviously as you crank it further onto the trailer, the boat loses it's bouyancy and your winching the whole weight of the boat as it leaves the water. The solution to that is a Dutton 2-speed winch that changes the gearing, much like you'd shift a mountain bike going up a hill. Use the other gear ratio, and you crank it on up to the bowstop.
This works great with my 232 Gulfstream and I've never needed guide poles. I know your Marlin is significantly heavier. I loaded a friends 33 Express last year with the same technique I described to you above. The only difference was that I had to periodically back the whole rig further into the water slightly, several times during the process to barely float the boat, enough to make it so I could winch it, even with the lower gear.

I feel that since this procedure has worked flawlessly for me every time, that I would pass it on to you. There is no need for guide poles if you use this method with a properly adjusted and set-up trailer to begin with.

 

[DennisG01]

Ha! Bill, I was just going to add some more advice, but you beat me to it and advised the exact same thing I was going to say (a little bit at a time, back into the water, double speed winch). Thanks! You saved me from having to type it!!!

On a side note, I've always made fun of electric winches, saying "who needs a stinkin' power winch!". The previous owner of my Grady put one on (although he was almost 70 years old). Ask me if I've taken it off..... :roll:

 

[magicalbill]

Hey Dennis;
Funny you should mention your electric winch..I got the "back-in-a-little-at-a-time" idea from another old guy with an electric at a ramp near Navy Pier (Chicago.)He used his electric winch and his partner in the truck sunk the trailer slightly each time the winch started to get too much of a load on it. Great way to load..I always remembered that.
It's also worthy of mention to note the near flawless loading technique of seasoned tournament bass boaters. They do it all the time and have their power-loading down to a science. That procedure is not applicable with our larger Gradys, but it's something to see if your into this sort of thing.

 

[DennisG01]

It's also worthy of mention to note the near flawless loading technique of seasoned tournament bass boaters. They do it all the time and have their power-loading down to a science. That procedure is not applicable with our larger Gradys, but it's something to see if your into this sort of thing.

You might be surprised at what's possible, even with bigger boats. I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say that between my wife in the boat (The Sundancer, 28') and me in the truck, we would give those bass boats you mention a run for their money. As I'm backing down, she's already heading toward the trailer. She slides on and once the boat stops/settles in, she gooses the engine and snugs the boat right up solid against the bow stop, adjusting with the steering wheel as she goes (if needed). She keeps the engine in gear with some power while I attach the winch hook, give the handle a turn or two to make sure it's tight, throw the safety hook on and pull out. We get comments and questions ALL the time from owners of much smaller boaters, asking how we can take a big boat in and out that fast. I just tell them that my wife is really good at what she does. We especially like the ones who stop and stare - and then once we have pulled completely out... we usually see one of them pointing to us, waving their hands in the air and we just know that they're saying "If they can do that with THAT big boat, how come we can't do that with our boat!". The Sundancer does look like even a bigger boat than it is since it's very tall (a cruiser) with a big, long deck.

But, I also spent some time making sure that the trailer is setup just right for that hull. It's also a very good trailer to start with, which makes it easier to setup (ShoreLand'r). Actually, it used to be a roller trailer - I prefer bunks so I removed the rollers and converted to bunks.

 

[Meanwhile]

I appreciate the feedback. I had intended to try some of these techniques such as moving a bit at a time but I'll be replacing my helm quad seal today instead.

I had a great discussion with an older guy at the yard. My target bunks are not set up correctly. I'll move the forward ending a bit and the rearward end of the target bunks out a bit. As it is now, the main bunks are taking a load on the back end but the forward section of the main bunks have no hull touching them as the target bunks are set to carry the bow a bit too high. I'll try to post some photos later. It will be trial and error with small adjustments.

The prior owner only bought this trailer to move the boat from the path of a hurricane, it has not been set up by a professional for this boat.

Thanks again for the ideas.

Randy

 

[magicalbill]

Dennis;
Awesome. I've never seen the quick-load procedure done with a big boat.

No Bail;
Getting the trailer set up for the boat is key, as we've discussed. Hope it all goes well.