Trailer guides

[PT G]

Hopefully this will be our first season trailering around the Northeast to boat the big lakes. For the best use of the guides how much space should there be between the guide and the rub rail. It is set now about 2" from the rub rail.

 

[DennisG01]

You could probably tighten them up a bit, but that's fine where they are. The widest point of your boat is further forward. If you really wanted to, you could set them to bend a bit when in contact with the widest point - and then "they'll be where they be" at the stern.

 

[Ekea]

mine are about 1/4 to 1/2" from the rub rail. they are pvc and will flex around the widest part. having it close will ensure the boat ends up right where you want it on the trailer, even with a cross wind.

key - make sure the boat is centered on the trailer when you set up your guides.

 

[glacierbaze]

I think the most commonly used guides are the square galvanized tubing, bent close to 90°, and clamped to the main trailer beam, which the PVC pipe fits over. There are two common sizes, with the taller one giving you a better alignment strength, with a taller boat such as a Grady.
Also, if you do not have a crossmember at the very rear of your trailer, you want to mount the guide as close to the crossmember behind the axles as possible. If it has a couple of feet or more to it, that unsupported I beam, sticking out behind the last crossmember has a surprising amount of twist to it, when you pull sideways on the trailer guide.
How your trailer rides may also dictate how much space you leave between the guide and the boat. I have passed trailers on the highway, where the guide was just beating the hell out of the rub rail, because of vibration in the trailer. Mine are pretty close, but if I am going any distance at highway speed, I usually snug them to the rub rails with a dock line across the boat.

 

[PT G]

I think the most commonly used guides are the square galvanized tubing, bent close to 90°, and clamped to the main trailer beam, which the PVC pipe fits over. There are two common sizes, with the taller one giving you a better alignment strength, with a taller boat such as a Grady.
Also, if you do not have a crossmember at the very rear of your trailer, you want to mount the guide as close to the crossmember behind the axles as possible. If it has a couple of feet or more to it, that unsupported I beam, sticking out behind the last crossmember has a surprising amount of twist to it, when you pull sideways on the trailer guide.
How your trailer rides may also dictate how much space you leave between the guide and the boat. I have passed trailers on the highway, where the guide was just beating the hell out of the rub rail, because of vibration in the trailer. Mine are pretty close, but if I am going any distance at highway speed, I usually snug them to the rub rails with a dock line across the boat.

As fate would have it, one of my guides broke before I even realized they were under the boat! I have now been sent a replacement guide which they told me has an "orange" cap. My first thought was OK, I'll just spray it white and be done with it. Then I thought, "it is going to be on the right hand side when trailering, leave it orange so it is easier to spot. The tie line across when doing highway speeds makes perfect sense. the setup should be complete by this weekend, I will post a picture of how we look at that point. Thank you all for your input.

 

[DennisG01]

Another option... When I trailer, I just toss the PVC tubes into the cockpit. They slide right off.