Bought new Load Rite trailer in '08. Unfortunately, it came with Tie-Down brand of brake hardware. It seems 3 of my 4 wheels have calipers that are frozen with the "brakes on"..There is fluid in the master cylinder. Pads are worn unevenly, the wheels squeek, and some of the grease that can't take the heat runs down my rims. Replacing the brake hardware isn't cheap - $600 for all four wheels. At that price, I don't feel like replacing them every 3 years. This brand of brakes must be a big problem, because the guy who sold me the trailer told me "alot of guys remove the calipers and tie them to the axle so the wheels spin free". This is OK for me for now because I only have to drive a mile and 1/2 to the boat ramp at speeds less than 30 mph. But if I have to go a long distance over roads with higher speeds, I'd be truly hosed. Are there any other brands out there besides Tie-Down that may be better? Any recommendations to free up the calipers? Thanks in advance. Hot Ajax
Trailer Guys with Disc Brakes - Need Opinions Please
- Thread starter hotajax
- Start date
I've never had any experience with the Tie-Down brand but your right about them not having a great reputation. I've been running Kodiak brakes for probably 8 or 9 years now and have been very happy with them and they seem to get mostly positive reviews. You can get the components in various materials and I felt the stainless steel calipers and cadmium plated rotors were the best bang for the buck for me. The calipers are still like new other than the backing plates for the pads that tend to rust but I think the new ones might be coated or something to try and help with that. The rotors do get some surface rust on them but it gets wiped off as soon as you get on the road and make a couple of stops.
Good luck, brake problems are no fun.
Good luck, brake problems are no fun.
I switched my junk drum brakes over to Kodiaks on the front axle only. I purchased everything including a new coupler from http://www.easternmarine.com/KODIAK-DIS ... ake-Parts/ . They were very good to deal with except for one of the wheel bearings being defective. They use bearings made in China as most do. I called and they sent a replacement the next day. I could have used one of my old bearings if needed. Save your old bearings if they are the same size and still good -- clean them real well in solvent, dry them and then re-pack and place if a zip-lock bag for spare parts. Since you already have disc brakes, the coupler should be fine if it is working. Plan on replacing the brake line. I've never had any luck getting the lines out of the backing plate or caliper after a 2-3 year or more time. Cost was about $170/each wheel. This is what I purchased -- http://www.easternmarine.com/kodiak-10- ... ess-1hrcm1. They seemed to be the best bang for the buck. I also keep a spray bottle of salt-away mixed and spray the brake assembly EVERY TIME I dunk and pull the trailer. PM me if you have any questions -- Glad to help!
BTW-- I always make sure I pull forward when parking the trailer to pull the coupler out and un-load any pressure on the brakes. As for getting the old one freed up -- Soak them REAL GOOD with P-B Blaster and let them set a day or so.
BTW-- I always make sure I pull forward when parking the trailer to pull the coupler out and un-load any pressure on the brakes. As for getting the old one freed up -- Soak them REAL GOOD with P-B Blaster and let them set a day or so.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
I ran my 208 to and from the ramp every weekend for 9 years and after the second year of problems, bit the bullet and replaced complete drum brake assemblies every spring. Excessive I know but better than having issues on the road. Never could rinse them enough! Fortunately, only one axle had brakes!
My 258 has quad disc brakes. Also Load Right. Although it only sees salt water twice a year, after year two I had a caliper sieze. To get moving I tied up the caliper to the trailer frame and replace it later.
IMPORTANT: If you do this, block the caliper so that the piston cannot come out when you apply your brakes. That would not be a good thing!
Since then I rinse and spray a LIBERAL amount of penatrant over all brake components. No problems in 4 years now... Knock on wood...
My 258 has quad disc brakes. Also Load Right. Although it only sees salt water twice a year, after year two I had a caliper sieze. To get moving I tied up the caliper to the trailer frame and replace it later.
IMPORTANT: If you do this, block the caliper so that the piston cannot come out when you apply your brakes. That would not be a good thing!
Since then I rinse and spray a LIBERAL amount of penatrant over all brake components. No problems in 4 years now... Knock on wood...
Journeyman, what did you spray your brake components with? Something like CRC 6-66? WD-40? Something more potent, like T-9? Thanks. Hot Ajax
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
hotajax said:
Here's what I have hanging around my shop.
To be honest, I don't remember buying this for any reason other than I needed penetrating oil. Picked it up at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. It seems to be working. I not sure if it's the product or the process because I will often use both this and WD-40 at the same time. When I said liberally, I mean really drenching. I spray through the tire rim vent vent holes in the front and from all directions in the back. Rotor, caliper and brake line fittings, just in case...
journeyman said:hotajax said:
Here's what I have hanging around my shop.
To be honest, I don't remember buying this for any reason other than I needed penetrating oil. Picked it up at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. It seems to be working. I not sure if it's the product or the process because I will often use both this and WD-40 at the same time. When I said liberally, I mean really drenching. I spray through the tire rim vent vent holes in the front and from all directions in the back. Rotor, caliper and brake line fittings, just in case...
It's hard to argue with success if that has been working good for you for 4 years now, but.... Putting a lubricant on brakes just doesn't seem right, wouldn't it reduce their effectiveness or make them grabby or something?
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
I can't say if this is true, it doesn't seem to illaffect my brakes. What it does do for me is eliminate siezing and boating "timeout". I allways considered myself diligent about rinsing but seemd to always have problems.
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
If you want trouble free brakes, brakes that will work year after year with very minimal maintenance, Kodiak S/S ( all S/S ) are the only brakes to buy. There is another brand in the market now Deemax, that are copies of Kodiak . I never used Deemax but I use Kodiak here in Australia and never had any problems with them other than rusting backing pad plates but now you can get them in S/S as well .
The next best is S/S calipers with Dacromat rotors/brackets , you still have calipers that will work and not seize ( they still use S/S mounting bolts) but the rotors will rust especially if you don't use them often and the first time you tow the trailer will rip your pads off.
They are not cheap at around $330-400 per wheel but in the long run will be much cheaper .
Eastern Marine have 10% off right now and they are good guys to deal with.
Sturdybuilt trailer parts is another good supplier and they sell Deemax as well, they sometimes have 20-25% discount.
Put a set of them on your trailer with a Hydrastar or Dexter electric actuator and you will have brakes that you can lock the minute you push the lever on your brake controller , Tekonsha P3 is about as good as you can get .
The next best is S/S calipers with Dacromat rotors/brackets , you still have calipers that will work and not seize ( they still use S/S mounting bolts) but the rotors will rust especially if you don't use them often and the first time you tow the trailer will rip your pads off.
They are not cheap at around $330-400 per wheel but in the long run will be much cheaper .
Eastern Marine have 10% off right now and they are good guys to deal with.
Sturdybuilt trailer parts is another good supplier and they sell Deemax as well, they sometimes have 20-25% discount.
Put a set of them on your trailer with a Hydrastar or Dexter electric actuator and you will have brakes that you can lock the minute you push the lever on your brake controller , Tekonsha P3 is about as good as you can get .
Thanks guys. I'm seeing "Kodiak" quite a bit, and that means something to me, that they must be pretty darned good. Keep the info coming, good stuff to know. To the guys in the north who are still fishing for stripers, good luck out there.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
I'll vote for the Deemaxx brakes...I have them on my Owens and Sons and they work well.
The engineering is similar to the Kodiak brakes as Deemaxx was founded by someone who used to work for Kodiak. The price is much more palatable....
The engineering is similar to the Kodiak brakes as Deemaxx was founded by someone who used to work for Kodiak. The price is much more palatable....
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
Parthery said:
I thought they are about the same price for S/S , they are the only ones I look at . You are correct he worked for Kodiak before going alone , he probably has them made in the same Chinese factory as Kodiak!!!
Just built a new LoadRite roller this past year. Got a 5-Starr tandem chassis which I purchased from trailerparts depot. Put on a Titan EOH 4 wheel disc setup. Much nicer than the surge setups. The Titan came with the Kodiak Dacroments. Used Loctite Marine (non-metal) anti-seize on all hardware as well as coating them with Maxima motorcycle chain lube. Am luck enough to live near a freshwater boat launch so after every time in the salt can re-dip to do a good rinse. Did some business with eastern, but after they 'didn't recieve' about $75 of returns along with never making good on a parts shortage decided to go elsewhere.