Trailer Rebuild

Mustang65fbk

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Also roller trailers are ALWAYS steel so they are heavier. That is a plus for aluminum bunk trailers if you need to cut the totoal weight of the rig.
I'd love to know where you are getting your information from as a quick 30 second Google search would show you that there are a multitude of different trailer manufacturers that offer their trailers in both aluminum and roller configurations such as... Venture, Load Rite, Magic Tilt, Road King and I believe even EZ Loader has rollers as an option for their aluminum trailers...



 

SkunkBoat

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I'd love to know where you are getting your information from as a quick 30 second Google search would show you that there are a multitude of different trailer manufacturers that offer their trailers in both aluminum and roller configurations such as... Venture, Load Rite, Magic Tilt, Road King and I believe even EZ Loader has rollers as an option for their aluminum trailers...



hmmm, interesting, last time I bought a brand new trailer (2014 Load Rite 3100 single axle trailer) from Camp Marine in NJ the printed brochures only showed aluminum trailers with bunks. All roller trailers were steel. Guy said they don't use rollers on aluminum because cranking boats from the rear roller twists the frame. Maybe thats their policy. Maybe his brother-in law sells steel box framing?? ;)

I stand corrected. You can get rollers on aluminum frames.
 

Mustang65fbk

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hmmm, interesting, last time I bought a brand new trailer (2014 Load Rite 3100 single axle trailer) from Camp Marine in NJ the printed brochures only showed aluminum trailers with bunks. All roller trailers were steel. Guy said they don't use rollers on aluminum because cranking boats from the rear roller twists the frame. Maybe thats their policy. Maybe his brother-in law sells steel box framing?? ;)

I stand corrected. You can get rollers on aluminum frames.
A lot can change in almost 10 years ;)
 

DennisG01

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Boston Whaler states that using a roller trailer will void the hull warranty . I have and probably so have you seen hulls that have indentations where rollers were pressing. Grady on the other hand specifically states that rollers are OK for all hulls. What's the difference? I can't say for sure but obviously one maker's hulls are stiffer than the other. I know that Whaler gets a lot of their strength by installing the deck cap and then injecting foam between the inner shell of the hull and the deck insert. Maybe that creates a hull that is lighter and strong but also 'squishable'.
Yes, you're correct - I've seen the deformity. I've really only ever seen it on "cheapie" boats, though -- they weren't cored - just thin :)

That REALLY surprises me that Boston Whaler states that!
 

Mustang65fbk

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For a little bit of clarification… in the owners manual of a 270 Dauntless on the BW website it says “Your warranty MAY be void if you use a trailer with rollers. Use a trailer with bunks ONLY”. Of which the way I’d interpret that is that the warranty would likely be voided if the roller trailer did cause any damage to the boat, but it would still be honored if it didn’t. Ironically it doesn’t say anything about not using a roller trailer in the warranty itself, though it does continue saying “Trailers equipped with rollers instead of bunks can damage the foam sandwich hull of your boat and should never be used.” in the owners manual. So it sounds to me like a “take it at your own risk” type of thing, though with only a 10 year warranty on the hull anyway, I’m not sure if that would be an issue in that time. Although I suppose it’s always possible, especially on the heavier boats, though I don’t think it would be worth the hassle of getting a roller trailer and “potentially” risk losing the warranty on your boat, if it still is under warranty. Also, I prefer bunks anyway but I’m sure there are those out there that prefer rollers instead.


 

Parthery

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Whaler has, for years, advised against using roller trailers for their hulls. They must know something, or have seen a multitude of claims.

Personal preference is not to add another 24 or 48 things that require maintenance, but I know you NE folks find them easier to launch and load from. Down south, 99% of all trailers are bunk.
 
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SkunkBoat

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There are ramps in NJ where a bunk is a nightmare. At low tide you would have to drive off the end of the ramp to float a boat onto a bunk.
My father in law has that problem evry time. Trailer goes past ramp, wheels get stuck, frame bottoms out...
Rollers you touch the water with the first keel roller and crank it up.
 

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Maybe I missed it but I don't see brakes on your list. If you are doing both axles you could be looking at another $800-1200 depending on whether you do Dacromet or SS.

Given what your time is worth, plus axles being out of stock, plus the few hundred that trailer will bring on trade, are you sure it doesn't make sense just to buy a new one?
When I checked prices at the start of summer, it was going to be close to $8K.

I can probably do the work in 4 hours or less including bleeding the brakes, and I enjoy it.
 
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TLCObsession

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Maybe I missed it but I don't see brakes on your list. If you are doing both axles you could be looking at another $800-1200 depending on whether you do Dacromet or SS.

Given what your time is worth, plus axles being out of stock, plus the few hundred that trailer will bring on trade, are you sure it doesn't make sense just to buy a new one?
I have fairly recent brakes in good shape. As I replied to another member, a new trailer would probably cost me triple what I will spend. If I could get one for $4500 I would.
 

Mustang65fbk

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When I checked prices at the start of summer, it was going to be close to $8K.

I can probably do the work in 4 hours or less including bleeding the brakes, and I enjoy it.
The problem with you and me is the area that we live in. I remember before buying my 228 Seafarer almost exactly a year ago now, it took me the entire year before that and then some looking at potential candidates. There were probably oh at least 5-6 boats that I was seriously considering, put offers down on 2-3 before buying my current boat and in the long run I'm very glad that I waited for the right one. That being said, a couple of the boats that I was looking at didn't have trailers included in the sale and had to provide my own, of which I called multiple places around the Seattle area to see what, if anything, that they had in stock. The cheapest that I could find was around your $8k figure and some were even up in the double digits at above $10k, which is infuriating because you can get the same trailer in the midwest or southeastern part of the country for half the price, or less. That's the reason why I bought my boat out in Maryland, because of the price. I bought my boat for $26.5k, which included the motor and trailer, yet I've seen two of near identical boats to mine selling out here for $55k-$65k. One was the exact same year, had a kicker motor and radar but an older galvanize trailer, which I'm not a big fan of. The other was a 2005, same motor, had radar and a kicker motor on it as well as an aluminum trailer that was listed on CL for $65k and the posting had been deleted by its owner, meaning that it sold. Prices around here for anything... homes, boats, cars/trucks/motorcycles, RV's, alcohol, smokes, you name it... it's all vastly overpriced compared to what you can buy elsewhere throughout the country. If you're up for a road trip or having something shipped out to you then you can save tens of thousands of dollars on something... sometimes even more than that. Good luck on your project!
 

coldpizza

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The problem with you and me is the area that we live in. I remember before buying my 228 Seafarer almost exactly a year ago now, it took me the entire year before that and then some looking at potential candidates. There were probably oh at least 5-6 boats that I was seriously considering, put offers down on 2-3 before buying my current boat and in the long run I'm very glad that I waited for the right one. That being said, a couple of the boats that I was looking at didn't have trailers included in the sale and had to provide my own, of which I called multiple places around the Seattle area to see what, if anything, that they had in stock. The cheapest that I could find was around your $8k figure and some were even up in the double digits at above $10k, which is infuriating because you can get the same trailer in the midwest or southeastern part of the country for half the price, or less. That's the reason why I bought my boat out in Maryland, because of the price. I bought my boat for $26.5k, which included the motor and trailer, yet I've seen two of near identical boats to mine selling out here for $55k-$65k. One was the exact same year, had a kicker motor and radar but an older galvanize trailer, which I'm not a big fan of. The other was a 2005, same motor, had radar and a kicker motor on it as well as an aluminum trailer that was listed on CL for $65k and the posting had been deleted by its owner, meaning that it sold. Prices around here for anything... homes, boats, cars/trucks/motorcycles, RV's, alcohol, smokes, you name it... it's all vastly overpriced compared to what you can buy elsewhere throughout the country. If you're up for a road trip or having something shipped out to you then you can save tens of thousands of dollars on something... sometimes even more than that. Good luck on your project!
Same in So California. I looked at a lot of boats and ended up buying one in New Jersey and had a new trailer put together in NJ as well. The $4500 trailer in NJ would have been $7000 and up in So Cal. I hope I didn't just jinx the good luck I've had with it so far (including the 2800 miles trip from NJ to Los Angeles).
 
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Mustang65fbk

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Same in So California. I looked at a lot of boats and ended up buying one in New Jersey and had a new trailer put together in NJ as well. The $4500 trailer in NJ would have been $7000 and up in So Cal. I hope I didn't just jinx the good luck I've had with it so far (including the 2800 miles trip from NJ to Los Angeles).
Isn't it crazy what a difference a couple hundred to even a few thousand miles can make with regards to pricing? The first boat that I ever owned was a 21' Arima that I also bought out in Maryland back in July of 2017 for $16.5k. They're a boat that's made out here in Seattle of which they have an almost cult like following to them and at the time I couldn't find a similar boat for less than about $35k or so, and they've only gone up since then in price. I bought the boat for $16.5k and kept it for 4 seasons, sold it in the late fall of 2020 for $27.5k. Looked for a 228 Seafarer for just a little bit over a year before finally finding my boat of which I bought it for $26.5k, and like I said there have been two that I know of that have sold on the Seattle CL that were listed at $55k and $65k. Finding something for half the price or less, and saving tens of thousands of dollars, is all the motivation I need to consider and actually go through with doing a little cross country road trip.