Trailer setup

[Fireman383]

Hello all, I usually lurk around and read, but I can’t seem to find the info I’m looking for. I have a 2000 islander that I bought without a trailer. I bought a loadmaster aluminum trailer used and have never liked the way the boat sits on the trailer. The original u bolts were too far gone on the trailer to be able to adjust it, so I’ve purchased all new hardware (bunk brackets included), and am contemplating doing away with the forward keel rest and adding forward guide bunks instead. I’ve emailed Grady white about bunk placement and have received their recommendation on spacing. My plan is to replace the hardware and set the main bunks where they suggest as phase 1 of adjusting the trailer, then add forward guide bunks and remove the keel rest once I get the main bunks situated. I know an islander is not the most common hull, but I’m curious about what others have as trailer setups. I can figure out the details but if anyone has a similar hull I’d like to see pics of your trailer configuration and hear some input from those of you who are more experienced with these hulls than me. Thanks in advance

 

[seasick]

You are going in the right direction. Get the setup for the main bunks first. That included spacing which you were told, and forward/aft position of the hull to achieve proper tongue weight. Grady can also tell you a decent staring point. You need to know the center of gravity and position it basically in the middle of the two axels for a tandem or over the axel for a single. From there you may need to move the hull forward or backwards to get the proper tongue weight.
Finally the height of the bunks may be an issue if you have fenders and where they sit relative to the hull.
After all of that, you can adjust the location of the keel stop and/or any forward bunks not only to support the load but to protect the hull center from hitting any cross members while launching or hauling

 

[Hookup1]

I have a 268 Islander. This hull has the Euro Transom - running surface stops 2 feet short of transom and works like a engine bracket. I have a two bunk trailer.

The only issue I have had is that the boat rested almost on the fenders. This required careful placement of the boat on the trailer. I don't splash the trailer. A marina always takes it off and puts it back on. This winter I purchased 10" TieDown brackets from Zoro (great price, free shipping, discount coupon) to replace the 8" brackets. This worked much better but it is still a little difficult to even the boat out. I plan to move them all the way outboard on the trailer frame. The photo's below are old 8" brackets and 3" from end of crossmember. New 10" brackets are 1" from end of crossmember.