Was surfing THT and found this thread about this subject, worth the read if you're towing heavy:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thre ... 14&start=1
I don't think you need to subscribe to view it, but in case, and to highlight the best post out of the thread:
Kerno writes...
Unfortunately, I am back to work on the boat project today, so I don't have time for a complete response - which I will post later.
I've made the cross country trip three times with large boats. One was Stamas 29 with a 10'6" beam, next was a 9'6" wide Jupiter 31 and the last trip was the 10 foot wide Venture. I carry flags and banners and if I were going through a state that has a stupid attitude, I'd be sure to have a permit. I do have a California annual permit.
The key to successful towing is good brakes - no compromises allowed here: Kodiak discs and a Brake-Rite electric over hydraulic actuator. Next, the trailer has to be rigid enough for the load. I want the trailer frame to stop about at the back of the boat - no stopping the frame forward and then supporting the boat on cantilevered wood Magic Tilt style. For that matter, NO Magic Tilts, please.
You will hit potholes and edges where the road surface is lower than the bridge edges, so remember that the first tires on the trailer get to take the abuse of bouncing the boat up over the edge. You'll be running at least "E" rated 16 inch tires on the trailer and a spare is mandatory.
The real question will always be: What attracts the Highway Patrol/DOT attention? The other question is: What do they want to see so they just keep driving?
I'll get into what I think about that this evening........................
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Kern O.
Kerno's Next post. The guy has real hands-on experience and what he says makes more sense than anyone esle on that thread:
OK, here's my take. You are looking at towing a 36 footer. 36 feet of boat just looks big behind almost anything except a Frieghtliner. Please see the first picture below. No, it is not an S-10, it is a 250. Yes, you are over width. Yes, you are required to have permits. But will you ever be asked for them? I have never been. I've been stopped for having a GPS unit sitting on the dash, but the width issue has never come up. I think it is primarily because some boats don't look as wide as they are. I'd never be brave enough to tow with side guides on the trailer. The rub rail is usually the widest point and it is well above most traffic, except for the trucks.
I've found that if you are a private person, there simply does not seem to be much enforcement. That obviously varies from state to state and from what has been posted, North Carolina does not want me to spend any money in their state because they are being stupid. I'd simply drive around it. Most states restrict overwide towing to daylight hours and require flashing lights for movement after dark. I've driven quite a bit both at night and in the early morning, but I have found it a lot easier to find a place to stay and to park in motel lots when it is still light. But I still carry the flags and banners required for daylight movement. I carry a sign for the front of the tow vehicle, a sign for the back of the trailer and red or orange flags to mark the width of the load. I made some simple brackets that bolt on the tow hooks and let me mount a cross bar on the front of the truck. That cross bar has both the yellow and black sign and two sockets for flags. The rear sign is vinyl laminated on an aluminum sheet that fits on the prop shafts. Lastly, I screwed two pipe caps to the trailer frame to support the flags. I use 1/2 PVC pipe for the flags so they will break if hit. But they need to have wood dowels in them or they'll break at the threads from the wind load and vibration.
There are permit agencies that will provide you with the permits for the states you'll be going through. You can also get most of them on line. So, for the first trip, buy the permits and give it a try. You'll quickly find out if anyone cares. I have never, not ever, stopped into a scale with a boat trailer. I think your home state is the one that will give you the most trouble - if anyone does. That is because you are licensed there and easy to ticket. If you are out of state, you are probably just going to be warned if you are on your way out of state. Again, your results may vary, but I feel that if you have the flags and banners and can put them on quickly and be on your way, you are less of a problem.
Local agencies may be worse, so, In those states where you'll be off the main highways, permits may be wise. Twenty bucks a year in Florida? So buy the permit.
Next subject - braking. The one time I have seen again and again is an officer looking over the hitch/chain/electrical setup as he passes. If it looks right, he goes on. If it does not, you stop. The same is true for lights. they all must work properly. Some states require brakes on all axles, Florida being one of them. I had two axles out of three with brakes and no problem. But please don't even consider moving the boat without a Brake Rite or better (if there is one) system. It simply makes it so easy and works so well.
Tires: People cuss Carlisles, but I have had no problem with them even at 117 degrees in Arizona. I carry the proper jack and tools for tire changing and bearing swapping. An infrared thermometer is essential to keep tabs on bearing temperature. Also, if the trailer is new, before you leave the yard, loosen every lug nut half a turn and re-tighten them. I've had some that I could not get loose. That's better done at the boat yard than at the side of the road. Next, drive it about 2 miles and check the bearing temps. If none are significantly higher than others (over 20 degrees), drive anothe 10 to 15 miles and find a nice quiet place to check them again. This time, be prepared to adjust any that are high. You'll need a jack, tools to get the bearing cap off, needle nose pliers and not be in a hurry. Loose bearings are better than tight.