While researching new GPS/sounders, it looks like my options are transom mount or through-hull. My current garmin 496 is set up shoot-through. Can anyone offer insight on what is best? What 'ducer should I use? I'm leaning towards a through-hull, but it scares me a little to take a hole saw to my new-to-me boat. I assume you just slather it with 3M 5200 and screw it in....
Transducers? shoot thru/transom/thru-hull?
- Thread starter zimm
- Start date
Zimm,
I have a 228 and I bought it new in 2009 and the Grady dealer in GA told me Grady did not recommend drilling a hole to mount an in hull transducer in the models below 22 feet. So we went with AirMar 1KW thru-hull transducer. It works pretty well. I had the stern puck kind on my previous boat and I love the thru-hull ( the kind that sits in the oil bath box and shoots a signal through the hull). It is not subject to cavitation issues like the puck too, plus it is one less hole in the boat as pucks still have to have a small hole for the wiring through the stern/transom. I am happy with my AirMar and it is paired with a Garmin 4208 and GSD 22 digital sounder.
Good luck.
I have a 228 and I bought it new in 2009 and the Grady dealer in GA told me Grady did not recommend drilling a hole to mount an in hull transducer in the models below 22 feet. So we went with AirMar 1KW thru-hull transducer. It works pretty well. I had the stern puck kind on my previous boat and I love the thru-hull ( the kind that sits in the oil bath box and shoots a signal through the hull). It is not subject to cavitation issues like the puck too, plus it is one less hole in the boat as pucks still have to have a small hole for the wiring through the stern/transom. I am happy with my AirMar and it is paired with a Garmin 4208 and GSD 22 digital sounder.
Good luck.
Thru hull is the better way to go, check the installation here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcBdkjCtifA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcBdkjCtifA
I looked at the airmar- $800 for a transducer? I'm not even fishing yet- really just need a depth sounder and a look at the bottom. Other options?
Zimm,
I would suggest a good puck transducer then. They work pretty good, easy to install and are the most affordable of the group.
I would suggest a good puck transducer then. They work pretty good, easy to install and are the most affordable of the group.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
I've never used anything other than a transom mount transducer, and when properly installed, they work just fine.
The key is to take the time to (1) position it properly so it doesn't cavitate or get air bubbles and (2) take the time to properly prepare the holes after you drill them so water doesn't get into the transom.
If you do an in-hull, you will lose water temperature functionality unless you install a secondary sensor on the transom anyway.
The key is to take the time to (1) position it properly so it doesn't cavitate or get air bubbles and (2) take the time to properly prepare the holes after you drill them so water doesn't get into the transom.
If you do an in-hull, you will lose water temperature functionality unless you install a secondary sensor on the transom anyway.
Just stay with a simple transom mount... plenty for the rivers and bay... if you were big time serious about fishing, the 1000 watt units and thru hulls will give you a better separation of fish from the bottom... but you are looking at up to $1400 plus installation (best left to the pros to do)! The standard transom mounts are usually less than $100 (you can get temp and speed too) and can easily be installed in under an hour with a level, small drill, screwdriver, and some sealant... routing the cable to the helm will likely take the most time... Make sure you mount the transducer on the correct side of the prop... the wrong side will read more bubbles from the prop and interfere with the sounder...
A P66 transom mount transducer will give decent results for around $125. I would not use the Garmin transducer...it'll be under a $100.
Guys, a thru hull transducer does not have to be 1400.00 bucks, you can get an Aimar B60 type for less than 300 bucks.
http://www.airmartechnology.com/2009/pr ... d=36&manf=
http://www.airmartechnology.com/2009/pr ... d=36&manf=
Doc Stressor
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The "best" transducer depends on the type of fishing you do and the maximum water depth. IMO, many people waste a lot of money by installing more transducer than they need. In general, a shoot through the hull transducer will lose about half the sensitivity relative to an in hull or transom unit. That's why many people go with expensive 1 kw units like the Airmar M260. A lot depends on the hull type and the installation. So some folks get away with the p79 inside of a Grady hull.
Even the lower end Airmar transducers are a big improvement over the stock transducers that come with most fish finders. I have a B60 in my 226 along with my HD side imaging transducer mounted on the transom. For standard 2D viewing, the B60 is about twice as sensitive and gives at least twice the definition as the Humminbird. A B60/P66 is really all that you need if you won't be fishing in depths over 200' or need CHIRP technology to discriminate bottom hugging fish.
Installing my B60 was a piece of cake. The instructions are very specific. Use 4200 or Life Seal so that if you ever need to replace the transducer you'll be able to remove it.
In hull and shoot through the hull transducers generally track bottom at high speed better than transom mount units. But again, a lot depends on the installation. I've found that with many hull, including my Grady, setting a transom mount transducer back an inch or two with a Stern Mate or a couple of blocks of starboard greatly improves the ability to track bottom at speed.
Give Gil Travis a call.
phone: 1(800) 925-0341
email: semperfifishing@ymail.com
Gil will give you just about the best price you can get for Airmar transducers. He is also extremely knowledgeable about sonar technology and will talk you ear off answering your questions.
Even the lower end Airmar transducers are a big improvement over the stock transducers that come with most fish finders. I have a B60 in my 226 along with my HD side imaging transducer mounted on the transom. For standard 2D viewing, the B60 is about twice as sensitive and gives at least twice the definition as the Humminbird. A B60/P66 is really all that you need if you won't be fishing in depths over 200' or need CHIRP technology to discriminate bottom hugging fish.
Installing my B60 was a piece of cake. The instructions are very specific. Use 4200 or Life Seal so that if you ever need to replace the transducer you'll be able to remove it.
In hull and shoot through the hull transducers generally track bottom at high speed better than transom mount units. But again, a lot depends on the installation. I've found that with many hull, including my Grady, setting a transom mount transducer back an inch or two with a Stern Mate or a couple of blocks of starboard greatly improves the ability to track bottom at speed.
Give Gil Travis a call.
phone: 1(800) 925-0341
email: semperfifishing@ymail.com
Gil will give you just about the best price you can get for Airmar transducers. He is also extremely knowledgeable about sonar technology and will talk you ear off answering your questions.
I concur with Doc. I have a 265 Express and the first year I had the boat (2010), I installed a P79 in hull tducer, connected to a Raymarine c120W. Worked ok to about 15-20 mph but then lost the bottom. Resolution on wrecks and shoals was lacking compared to my prior set up on my Black Watch, which used a through-hull with fairing block. I was dissatisfied so this past year I installed a P60-20 through hull on the opposite side of the keel from the P79. Disconnected the P79 cable from the Raymarine unit, of course. The improvement was very significant and it would give a bottom tracing (to 120 ft) at 50 mph. Resolution improved dramatically. I did not want transom mount - worried about taking it out if I hit something, which happened on an old boat of mine. Got temp readout as well. The P60 is easy to install- no fairing blocks and custom cutting- drill the hole, apply 4200, tighten most of the way, re-tighten the following day and you're done. As I recall, the cost was not bad as well. Hope this helps.
I had the B60-20 in my Sailfish for about 7 years, it's not as nice as the newest CHIRP models but works fine. Above 35 MPH I loose bottom but there aren't many days in the ocean I can go faster. I wouldn't bother with the models with the paddle wheel speed sensor, it may work for a couple years but not much more.