Transom cap on twin engine boats replacement cost

Legend

Legend

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
1,467
Reaction score
204
Points
63
Location
Southern New England
Model
Sailfish
Prepping the boat for launch and I notice my transom cap has deteriorated quite a bit over the last years. The top of the cap actually had developed some actual holes in the aluminum. I sealed them up as a temporary measure for the season. Kicking myself that id did not replace it when I repowered 3 years ago. Question is, has anyone had this done with a twin 250's by a dealer or glass shop. I was curious what they charge for lifting the engines and replacing the cap? thanks in advance so that I have some bargaining power as I shop this one around.
 
I am spit balling here. Its likely an hour of labor to unbolt ,lift and bolt engines back on. Then you got another 30 minutes to an hour labor removing the cap ,prepping the surface and putting a new one on with sealing it.
 
I noticed the same problem on my 2007 305 Express. I don't know why they did not use a piece of 316 ss angle iron. I was thinking maybe it could be cut and replaced in sections. It does not appear to have any structural value. Loosening the engines to slide a new piece in sounds like it could be a big deal. Post what you decide to do and what the labor ran as I would also like to do it.
 
Too many variables I think to make an estimate. Labor times will depend on whether the shop has the ability to lift two motors at the same time as opposed to derigging one at a time and lifting off and laying down on a pallet or motor stand. That is going to take more time. Don't forget that the steering probably has to be disconnected regardless of the method used.
The unknown question is whether there is rot under the cap and if so, how bad is it. To a certain extent, a moisture test before any work may help.

Worst case on labor not including ant transom work would be about what you paid for labor when you repowered since the work involved is similar (assuming harnesses and gauges were reused).
 
You can't get that off without cutting it. I'd be afraid of what is under it to be honest.

To do it correctly, remove engines, inspect seal and if ok either glass over (best) or reseal the seam. Re-install the new plastic bang cap.
An alternative is to leave engines on, remove all screws and work the metal bang plate free. Slide out, you may need to cut in pieces or bend to get out. Seal the seam. Then get the new plastic and cut into sections (maybe 2?), and slide under the engines. Mount and seal the seams on the sections.
 
  • Like
Reactions: A&J Outdoors
Fishtales said:
You can't get that off without cutting it. I'd be afraid of what is under it to be honest.

To do it correctly, remove engines, inspect seal and if ok either glass over (best) or reseal the seam. Re-install the new plastic bang cap.
An alternative is to leave engines on, remove all screws and work the metal bang plate free. Slide out, you may need to cut in pieces or bend to get out. Seal the seam. Then get the new plastic and cut into sections (maybe 2?), and slide under the engines. Mount and seal the seams on the sections.
Click to expand...
 
Fishtales said:
You can't get that off without cutting it. I'd be afraid of what is under it to be honest.

To do it correctly, remove engines, inspect seal and if ok either glass over (best) or reseal the seam. Re-install the new plastic bang cap.
An alternative is to leave engines on, remove all screws and work the metal bang plate free. Slide out, you may need to cut in pieces or bend to get out. Seal the seam. Then get the new plastic and cut into sections (maybe 2?), and slide under the engines. Mount and seal the seams on the sections.
Click to expand...
That is a novel approach never thought of that. I did think of maybe doing a temporary approach of putting a couple of pieces of plastic trim over existing cap around the worst sections.
 
If you decide to replace the cap I have 2 made and ready to go in polished stainless for sale. I just finished mine, the company that made them had a minimum order so I bought 3 figured someone would want them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Legend
seasick said:
Too many variables I think to make an estimate. Labor times will depend on whether the shop has the ability to lift two motors at the same time as opposed to derigging one at a time and lifting off and laying down on a pallet or motor stand. That is going to take more time. Don't forget that the steering probably has to be disconnected regardless of the method used.
The unknown question is whether there is rot under the cap and if so, how bad is it. To a certain extent, a moisture test before any work may help.

Worst case on labor not including ant transom work would be about what you paid for labor when you repowered since the work involved is similar (assuming harnesses and gauges were reused).
Click to expand...
Seasick,
I don't understand why the dealer or mechanic would need to completely removed the motors and rigging to remove and replace the cap strip? they just need to lift them off the stern a few inches. Now if there is damage I get it ,the motors need to be out of the way for repairs to be completed.
 
Sibs said:
If you decide to replace the cap I have 2 made and ready to go in polished stainless for sale. I just finished mine, the company that made them had a minimum order so I bought 3 figured someone would want them.
Click to expand...
How much? I'd be interested in having this on hand, 282 Sailfish. I'm in Maryland.
 
SmokyMtnGrady said:
Seasick,
I don't understand why the dealer or mechanic would need to completely removed the motors and rigging to remove and replace the cap strip? they just need to lift them off the stern a few inches. Now if there is damage I get it ,the motors need to be out of the way for repairs to be completed.
Click to expand...
I tries to explain that if the service shop does not have the ability to lift two motors at the same time ( i.e. has two motor hoists that can fit side by side), then they will have to derig and remove one motor at a time and store them either on 2 motor stands or laid flat on something. I guess I didn't make that clear.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
Sibs said:
If you decide to replace the cap I have 2 made and ready to go in polished stainless for sale. I just finished mine, the company that made them had a minimum order so I bought 3 figured someone would want them.
Click to expand...
Are these still available? Im about to repower My sailfish.
 
When we did this on our old Islander we were removing motors anyways. Home Depot had a big enough piece of aluminum angle we used. We also had some old starboard to use as spacers so the motors wouldn't crush the new cap. If you have something sturdy to back the boat under that you can hang both motors on using a few harbor freight chain faults it would not be that bad of a job leaving the rigging intact
 
You must log in or register to reply here.