transom deck scuppers

[Mustang65fbk]

Exactly... My 2004 Grady white 228 Seafarer still has the original stainless steel trim tabs on the boat and has yet to have any issues from corrosion or simply falling off. I'm willing to give the Seaworthy Innovations scuppers a shot for $80 and if I have to buy some new ones in 5 years, then oh well. They claim to make them out of 316 grade stainless steel, which is supposed to be much more resistant to saltwater.

 

[seasick]

never have seen the plastic and bronze used together. maybe one was swapped out before? prob have to cut a hole in the inside of the boat and put a deck plate in for access. you prob have to change the hoses as well.

Very common on Gradys and other hulls with motor wells but they are usually at different heights. The plastic end caps fit over either a finished thru hole or a flared tube. The deck drains which are lower are bronze thru hulls with barbed ends connected to hoses.

 

[DennisG01]

Skunk, that's a good point about the tabs. I didn't even think about that. I guess, thinking more about this, tabs are not a "sink your boat" item if they fail so maybe that's why they're not covered/discussed under the ABYC spec. And, sure, it's not like SS fittings are just going to magically rot away in short time. In your case, they're not fully submerged all of the time so there's VERY little risk, if at all.

But I still think that with something that can sink a boat, and is submerged 100% of the time, it's a wiser choice to use something that you will never have to think about. Plus, with thru-hulls... while you can easily and quickly check the outer part of the thru-hull (the mushroom head), inspecting the interior of the barb is much harder to do... and that's also a thinner part which of course would suffer from catastrophic failure earlier/sooner.

It's still an interesting point, though. We know that SS suffers from crevice corrosion - that's widely known and even seen on many of our boats for fixtures above the waterline. But it's kind of a head scratcher when you then think about the tabs again. I'm just thinking outloud here, but it might have something to do with STAGNANT water (less O2 in it)... water that gets into a crack/crevice and isn't "flushed out" continually with fresh ("new") water. I HAVE seen SS screws that secure underwater fixtures start to rust and pit around the edges. Not a lot or often, but I have come across it.

Inboard boats and sterndrive boats have SS shafts that are submerged all the time (but no stagnant water surround them, obviously).

 

[Fishtales]

Very common on Gradys and other hulls with motor wells but they are usually at different heights. The plastic end caps fit over either a finished thru hole or a flared tube. The deck drains which are lower are bronze thru hulls with barbed ends connected to hoses.

Didn't look like a motor well in the pic. Even if, it seems like a bonehead move if you ask me.

 

[trapper]

I believe I mentioned this before,. I installed the Seaworthy scupper flaps on my 208 but only on the splash well drains (scuppers). They are flush a mount, so will not work on the stern deck scuppers. They appear to be doing the job, but so far do not get much salt water exposure being further above the water line.

 

[SkunkBoat]

First. I think you guys are not seeing the picture right. The left one missing the flange completely. You are lookin at sealant not a plastic thruhull.
Those are deck drains.
I had the same thing on mine. the 20 yr old BRONZE thru hull cracked around the inside rim.


Second. Those SS flappers are nice but just outside covers. They would be good for the motorwell drains but they would have to be really big to cover a thruhull with a 2" hole/3" flange

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Inboard boats and sterndrive boats have SS shafts that are submerged all the time (but no stagnant water surround them, obviously).

I would disagree... what about the thousands and thousands of boat owners who leave their boats out on a mooring buoy for months and months at a time or that have them in the water 24/7 for 365 days out of the year at a marina?

 

[Mustang65fbk]

I believe I mentioned this before,. I installed the Seaworthy scupper flaps on my 208 but only on the splash well drains (scuppers). They are flush a mount, so will not work on the stern deck scuppers. They appear to be doing the job, but so far do not get much salt water exposure being further above the water line.

They make stern deck scuppers as well. Depending on what size you needed, you could go with either the SW1047 or the SW1051 if you wanted the screw in type, or dependent on which design you wanted. Look at the video at the top of their page, at the beginning it shows a simulation of a transom mounted scupper under water as well as at the 1:49 mark in the video you'll see the motorwell scuppers flowing water out and then another identical pair just below those. I'm assuming those are thru hull scuppers

Scupper1 — Seaworthy Innovations

www.seaworthyinnovations.com

 

[Mustang65fbk]

First. I think you guys are not seeing the picture right. The left one missing the flange completely. You are lookin at sealant not a plastic thruhull.
Those are deck drains.
I had the same thing on mine. the 20 yr old BRONZE thru hull cracked around the inside rim.


Second. Those SS flappers are nice but just outside covers. They would be good for the motorwell drains but they would have to be really big to cover a thruhull with a 2" hole/3" flange

Their SW1047 scuppers have a 3.12" OD for the flange itself. If you needed something with a larger flange then the SW1051 has a 3.8" OD to it but it still fits up to a 1.5" hose, which in your previous post you had a thread about fixing your cockpit scuppers and mentioned the hose was 1.5". So it should definitely work.

 

[DennisG01]

I would disagree... what about the thousands and thousands of boat owners who leave their boats out on a mooring buoy for months and months at a time or that have them in the water 24/7 for 365 days out of the year at a marina?

Disagree with what? That's exactly what I was saying = that those shafts are fine. ALTHOUGH, they also use sacficial anodes to help protect themselves - yet another variable.

The point is, bronze is a better material. That is not opinion, it is fact. But "how bad" SS is/isn't depends on many factors. After that, it's your comfort level and level of attention to maintenance that matters.

 

[DennisG01]

I had the same thing on mine. the 20 yr old BRONZE thru hull cracked around the inside rim.

There are inferior bronze's, too. Some still use zinc - which will rot away, weakening the metal. Techincally, if there's Zn in it, it isn't a true bronze - instead it is a brass. This "dezincification" can often be observed by a pinkish discoloration to the bronze.

 

[kevgle]

Their SW1047 scuppers have a 3.12" OD for the flange itself. If you needed something with a larger flange then the SW1051 has a 3.8" OD to it but it still fits up to a 1.5" hose, which in your previous post you had a thread about fixing your cockpit scuppers and mentioned the hose was 1.5". So it should definitely work.

You are exactly right .I was able to push the fitting thru from the outside.Thankfully I noticed it on land.Anyone on this board who thought they looked fine I would not want to go fishing with you guys.

Their SW1047 scuppers have a 3.12" OD for the flange itself. If you needed something with a larger flange then the SW1051 has a 3.8" OD to it but it still fits up to a 1.5" hose, which in your previous post you had a thread about fixing your cockpit scuppers and mentioned the hose was 1.5". So it should definitely work.

 

[kevgle]

See this thread. 265 express scupper replacement https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/deck-drain-scupper-surprise.28979/

I did not raise them. If you have the time, consider raising them.
Grady raised them on the 265 in 2003 (maybe 02?) when they flattened the deadrise to accomodate 4 strokes.

SS..below waterline...blah blah blah... My SS trim tabs are 22 years old, held in with SS screws. I used SS. They are at the water line. they sit low when two full tanks.

SS is a lot cheaper than chrome over bronze.

The rubber flaps work. Proof is that my brother left one off last year because the screw was stripped. He said "They don't do much" All year that one scupper farted a dribble of water.

Thanks that is exactly what my situation is.What did you do to redo the battery tray?

 

[DennisG01]

You are exactly right .I was able to push the fitting thru from the outside.Thankfully I noticed it on land.Anyone on this board who thought they looked fine I would not want to go fishing with you guys.

I don't think anyone said the one of the left looked good.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Thanks that is exactly what my situation is.What did you do to redo the battery tray?

Screwed/glued in some ledges to set the plywood shelf down & screw it. its removable now.
I just got new batteries, everything is disconnected. I can take pix tomorrow. PM me we can exchange #s and talk it over.

Be careful not to do any damage to the hull wall. Thats balsa. Don't screw it. The original shelf was glassed on top only. Thin glass. thats allthat held the outside edge.
Use a buzz cutter.
The shelf was stapled thru the long edge from the wall that holds the fuel valve. Buzz cut the glass.

 

[Rlloyd]

A lot of discussion on this topic already, but if it’s helpful I had this exact repair done on one of the thru-hulls in my Gulfstream, although my original thru-hulls were bronze. I used the Groco 1500 TH for the replacement (1.5”), and you have to buy a separate tailpiece to mate a barb to it. Note that the Groco does not have a flapper valve, or a mounting solution for it, so you need some other check valve solution. I did NOT realize that, so I get water in my cockpit when I’ve got a full boat (crew, etc). I’m going to install an in-line check valve next winter.

I’m going to disagree that a thru-hull underwater automatically means operator error. In my case, I don’t have a wet transom, but my F200’s weigh a lot more than the 2-strokes the boat was originally designed for. Long story, but I think Grady did not anticipate the weight of these motors.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Disagree with what?

About your comment earlier of "Inboard boats and sterndrive boats have SS shafts that are submerged all the time (but no stagnant water surround them, obviously)." Which I'd say there's a ton of stagnant water when a boat is moored in a marina or on a mooring buoy for weeks, months or even years at a time.

 

[DennisG01]

About your comment earlier of "Inboard boats and sterndrive boats have SS shafts that are submerged all the time (but no stagnant water surround them, obviously)." Which I'd say there's a ton of stagnant water when a boat is moored in a marina or on a mooring buoy for weeks, months or even years at a time.

No, that's not stagnant. The water is constantly moving around a (relatively) stationary boat.

 

[seasick]

No, that's not stagnant. The water is constantly moving around a (relatively) stationary boat.

Another important consideration is that in the above instance and the earlier reference to trim tabs, the water that constantly 'bathes' those parts has oxygen in it. If it didn't all the fish would die It's the oxygen that makes stainless corrosion resistant. In the case of thru hulls, if the fittings and flanges were completely sealed form the air, they would be OK but total sealing can be tricky to achieve. In the also previously mentioned point about stainless steel screws on things like tabs, as long as the screws are coated and bedded with sealant, they generally won't rust. When small amount of moisture do seep in, rusting will occur. Take a look at how many boats you see with rust runs around the swim ladder transom attachment points.

 

[kevgle]

Screwed/glued in some ledges to set the plywood shelf down & screw it. its removable now.
I just got new batteries, everything is disconnected. I can take pix tomorrow. PM me we can exchange #s and talk it over.

Be careful not to do any damage to the hull wall. Thats balsa. Don't screw it. The original shelf was glassed on top only. Thin glass. thats allthat held the outside edge.
Use a buzz cutter.
The shelf was stapled thru the long edge from the wall that holds the fuel valve. Buzz cut the glass.


View attachment 25585

Thank you very much for your help,I owe you a beer or two. will keep you posted as I make progress.Original plan was to have the marina do the repair but wouldnt be finished for weeks.Thanks again